Hard Front Brake Lever

[Purnong]

I've got a bit of an odd issue with my front brake lever
When I'm first starting out for the day the brake lever is very hard to pull in first time you use it, Then it pulls in and works as normal for the rest of the day
Normally I would think this to be a sticky piston in one of the calipers but I'm wondering if there's some weirdness happening with the ABS system, The ABS works fine and whoever had the bike before me has fitted an off switch for that although I haven't used it yet
Both levers seem to be free and not binding either but I'll pull them both out and clean the pivot pins to eliminate that next weekend
Anyone else come across this before or willing to offer an opinion?

 

[Squibb]

I think you are running a 2011 Gen1 bike, but I am not aware of it's mileage or service history. Problems often emerge shortly after service visits - you may have been there previously

The obvious concern is that the ABS module may be defective, as this has become a common theme amongst owners of some of the early bikes. However, let's park that concern for now & float a few thoughts: -

- When was the brake fluid last changed & the ABS pump cycled?
- When were the front brake callipers last checked - could this be sticking pistons as you suggest?
- Front brake master cylinder - could this be dirty fluid or failing seals? Remove the cover & see if there is anything odd happening when you work the lever. Look at the tiny port in the base of the reservoir. Rebuild kits are available.
- That ABS switch - best disconnected, at least until this problem is resolved.
- Remove & lube those pivots, as you suggest.

That seems like enough for now. BTW, I assume there are no codes showing in diag & that the ABS light extinguishes correctly once you get the bike rolling.

 

[Purnong]

Hi Squibb
Thanks for the response mate, You covered a fair bit in that
I've just bought the bike and the short answer is: I don't know but everything you have suggested is something for me to start looking at and going through, Oh and 42,000kms mileage
This is my first bike with ABS and I hope that's not the culprit, I bought it second hand through a dealer and they replaced the rear pads and said the fronts were fine and I haven't had a good look at them yet
My gut feel is sticky caliper piston but yet to be proven
"Problems often emerge shortly after service visits - you may have been there previously", That I have mate and it's why I prefer doing my own work
To be honest I've not noticed the ABS light on when first starting off, Maybe it's switched off but I thought the light stayed on in that scenario
Lots to test and think about here, Thanks again for the suggestions

I think you are running a 2011 Gen1 bike, but I am not aware of it's mileage or service history. Problems often emerge shortly after service visits - you may have been there previously

The obvious concern is that the ABS module may be defective, as this has become a common theme amongst owners of some of the early bikes. However, let's park that concern for now & float a few thoughts: -

- When was the brake fluid last changed & the ABS pump cycled?
- When were the front brake callipers last checked - could this be sticking pistons as you suggest?
- Front brake master cylinder - could this be dirty fluid or failing seals? Remove the cover & see if there is anything odd happening when you work the lever. Look at the tiny port in the base of the reservoir. Rebuild kits are available.
- That ABS switch - best disconnected, at least until this problem is resolved.
- Remove & lube those pivots, as you suggest.

That seems like enough for now. BTW, I assume there are no codes showing in diag & that the ABS light extinguishes correctly once you get the bike rolling.

 

[Squibb]

Your ABS warning light should come on when you first switch on the ignition - once moving it should run through a self-diagnostic procedure, then switch off once you reach around 10 kph, provided everything is in order. If there is a problem the light should either stay on, or flash.

Failure to light is abnormal & will need investigation - the system is monitored by an ECU & usually reverts to conventional braking, without any anti-lock pulsing, should the diagnostic sense a problem.

Given the unusual air filter you identified in a separate thread & here the suspect ABS, surely you would be best advised to return the bike to the selling dealer for proper investigation. Loss of braking, at a crucial moment, doesn't bear thinking about.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Ah, the early models cycle the abs light off right away. I think it was '14 on that did the rolling thing, maybe even later.

 

[Purnong]

Ah, the early models cycle the abs light off right away. I think it was '14 on that did the rolling thing, maybe even later.

Thanks Don, That's good to know & one less thing to worry about

Given the unusual air filter you identified in a separate thread & here the suspect ABS, surely you would be best advised to return the bike to the selling dealer for proper investigation.

The air filter was standard fitment from Yamaha Australia and you can still buy them new from the dealers here, How that came about I don't know but it looks pretty dodgy at first glance
Back to the ABS, I have noticed it working fine just not the self test light first thing but as per Don in Lodi's advice above it seems this is normal for the early models
It still may well be the ABS though, I'll get it sorted one way or another I was just wondering if anyone on here had experienced this behavior before
Thanks for your suggestions though, I do appreciate it

 

[Squibb]

Ah, the early models cycle the abs light off right away. I think it was '14 on that did the rolling thing, maybe even later.

That's a new one on me - thanks Don. Apologies OP.

Both my Yamahas are 2014 models & both do the rolling ABS light thing.

 

[bimota]

Your ABS warning light should come on when you first switch on the ignition - once moving it should run through a self-diagnostic procedure, then switch off once you reach around 10 kph, provided everything is in order. If there is a problem the light should either stay on, or flash.

Failure to light is abnormal & will need investigation - the system is monitored by an ECU & usually reverts to conventional braking, without any anti-lock pulsing, should the diagnostic sense a problem.

Given the unusual air filter you identified in a separate thread & here the suspect ABS, surely you would be best advised to return the bike to the selling dealer for proper investigation. Loss of braking, at a crucial moment, doesn't bear thinking about.

Your ABS warning light should come on when you first switch on the ignition - once moving it should run through a self-diagnostic procedure, then switch off once you reach around 10 kph, provided everything is in order. If there is a problem the light should either stay on, or flash.


this is what mine does as a gen 1 and all the other gen 1 bikes i know, soon as you start moving it goes off, not any speed soon as i move its off in no time

rob

 

[Dwido]

Ah, the early models cycle the abs light off right away. I think it was '14 on that did the rolling thing, maybe even later.

Mine as well, goes off right away.
Gen1.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Mine as well, goes off right away.
Gen1.

Good, I was beginning to think mine was a one-off sort of thing.

 

[Purnong]

Thanks all, mine seems to go through the self diagnostic lights on start up but all lights are out once the bikes running
I tested the ABS in the paddock yesterday and it's working fine
The brake lever was fine yesterday and went hard once when I riding and testing but you can pull through it even when it is hard
It seems it might be related to the united brake system maybe, Is that controlled by the ABS pump does anyone know?
I have found other threads with similar issues on here but didn't really find any definitive resolution

 

[2daMax]

I noticed that once started and gets moving, the UBS system does a initalization of opening and closing the valve. I did had a hard brake lever once and changing out the fluid and cycling the abs pump did cure it permanently. But now, i have the rear brake being hard. Still able to press but really hard but once it recovers, it is all good. All my fault for not keeping the fluid change in a timely manner. This ABS system in the S10 is really fussy about brake fluid change.