Glowing exhaust header

[sandro1973]

Early morning, bike starts just fine, goes fine after that...but while warming up, one of the pipes seems to get a bit hotter than the other.

I never noticed this until winter for the obvious reason...the lack of light makes it noticeable....Don't know it it's "normal" or a sign than one of the cylinders is running leaner.

 

[Squibb]

Have you checked for codes?
Is this the same bike that you were having sporadic cold start issues with? 2015 or was it 2018 - mileage?
What aftermarket upgrades are fitted currently - exhaust/air filter?

If the bike has been left running stationery throughout, then this suggests one cylinder is indeed running lean as you mention. Possibilities that spring to mind are are an inlet air leak, TB sync or failing O2 Lambda sensor.

 

[sandro1973]

Have you checked for codes?
Is this the same bike that you were having sporadic cold start issues with? 2015 or was it 2018 - mileage?
What aftermarket upgrades are fitted currently - exhaust/air filter?

If the bike has been left running stationery throughout, then this suggests one cylinder is indeed running lean as you mention. Possibilities that spring to mind are are an inlet air leak, TB sync or failing O2 Lambda sensor.

Didn't check for codes yet, never did actually....or know how to do it.

It's the same bike i was having cold start issues that were "fixed" by cycling the key twice for additional fuel pressure on the pump.

My bike has a K&N filter and Arrow end-can, with stock pipes.

2015 model, 75.000 km ( 46.000 miles )

TB were synched 2.000 miles ago.

It might be doing this since i got the bike, but since i usually don't start it during the night, i never noticed.



The photo below is NOT from MY bike, but from another user that has all stock OEM exhaust system.....a few others mention having noticed the same, from just one pipe, just like me....

 

[Sierra1]

Me personally, would never let the bike idle long enough for the pipes to start glowing.

 

[sandro1973]

Me personally, would never let the bike idle long enough for the pipes to start glowing.

I don't leave it idling much more than 2 / 3 minutes max ( winter time ), just until the RPM stabilizes.

Since the bike seems to perform and sound better after 10 minutes riding, i never rush things when it's cold.

 

[Sierra1]

I hardly ever ride below 40F, but I usually turn the key on as I'm swinging a leg over the seat. By the time I'm sitting on it, it's done the diagnostic thing. I hit the starter, squeeze the clutch lever a few times, put it in gear, and off I go. Maybe 15 seconds of idle. Bike runs perfect. But, we've already established that I have the only perfect Tenere that they built.

 

[Cantab]

Early morning, bike starts just fine, goes fine after that...but while warming up, one of the pipes seems to get a bit hotter than the other.

I never noticed this until winter for the obvious reason...the lack of light makes it noticeable....Don't know it it's "normal" or a sign than one of the cylinders is running leaner.

View attachment 88153

Im sure we've had posts and very similar pics about this - sorry cant remember details tho

 

[Squibb]

This thread provides you with a walkthrough for checking/deleting stored codes (post #2 onwards): -

.............. https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/2014-super-tenere-fault-code-deletion-how-to.17354/#post-374664

This should always be the first step, when researching a potential issue with the bike - hopefully it may add direction.

I have to say I was never convinced by your special starting procedure - the start & stumble habit always seemed to point towards a problem emerging. Maybe you have managed to find a work around rather than a solution. You have mods that will serve to lean out the stock fuelling which should be adjusted, within certain parameters, by the lambda sensors parts #4 & 5 in this diagram: -

.......... https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5944967/xt1200z-super-tenere/exhaust

However, it is all too easy for one of these O2/Lambda sensors to become contaminated or start to fail, sending inaccurate readings to the bike's ECU. I'll let this piece from Denso explain: -

........... https://www.denso-am.eu/products/automotive-aftermarket/engine-management-systems/lambda-sensors/how-they-work/

So, to conclude, whilst the dash is not shouting at you, let's have a check for codes first.

 

[sandro1973]

This thread provides you with a walkthrough for checking/deleting stored codes (post #2 onwards): -

.............. https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/2014-super-tenere-fault-code-deletion-how-to.17354/#post-374664

This should always be the first step, when researching a potential issue with the bike - hopefully it may add direction.

I have to say I was never convinced by your special starting procedure - the start & stumble habit always seemed to point towards a problem emerging. Maybe you have managed to find a work around rather than a solution. You have mods that will serve to lean out the stock fuelling which should be adjusted, within certain parameters, by the lambda sensors parts #4 & 5 in this diagram: -

.......... https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5944967/xt1200z-super-tenere/exhaust

However, it is all too easy for one of these O2/Lambda sensors to become contaminated or start to fail, sending inaccurate readings to the bike's ECU. I'll let this piece from Denso explain: -

........... https://www.denso-am.eu/products/automotive-aftermarket/engine-management-systems/lambda-sensors/how-they-work/

So, to conclude, whilst the dash is not shouting at you, let's have a check for codes first.

Thanks for the feedback and tips. I believe you might be right and the bike has some type of lean condition.

Other guys have mention that sporadic start / stop issue on cold startups, so it's not uncommon, but since i took the mechanics advice for that particular workaround, it's been starting fine.

I should probably try and get the ECU adjusted for the K&N filter + Arrow endcan combo.

I'll also have a look for any error codes, so far, none was ever displayed on the dash

 

[Checkswrecks]

Im sure we've had posts and very similar pics about this - sorry cant remember details tho

At least four prior threads about this when doing a search on the words
glowing headers

 

[OldRider]

I has a set of Supertrapp stainless steel 6 into 2 pipes on my 79 CBX and if I sat at a Red light very long, they would start to glow Red. SS pipes are going to do this if you let them get hot enough. I crank the S10 and give it about 15 seconds and get going. I do keep the rpm's low for the first few miles.

 

[Sierra1]

I know that single wall pipes are known to glow, but I thought that most OE pipes were double wall.

 

[RIVA]

There is nothing wrong with this motorcycle. Just start it and ride it lovingly until it warms up.

 

[Checkswrecks]

I know that single wall pipes are known to glow, but I thought that most OE pipes were double wall.

These are single wall stainless.

 

[sandro1973]

There is nothing wrong with this motorcycle. Just start it and ride it lovingly until it warms up.

There's nothing wrong i can put my finger, but sometimes it has moments were it doesn't start well when cold....this video is from this afternoon ( it was parked for 5 hours....but in the early morning it started just fine at 1st start attempt )

 

[pooh and xtine]

One pipe getting hotter suggests it could be a misfire and incomplete combustion in the cylinder letting unburnt fuel getting into the downpipe. It would be worth checking that the coil sticks / plugs for that cylinder are working ok. A burnt exhaust valve or incorrect timing on one cylinder is also possible, but less likely.

 

[MattR]

I had the same issue. Syncing the TBs seems to help (one screw was screwed right in) but also, when I had it flashed the tuner found it was so weak at low throttle it was off the scale. Both rectified and problem solved


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[Checkswrecks]

MattR beat me to the thought it probably could use a throttle body sync.
But at 45,000 miles, start with a few tanks full of fuel injector cleaner/solvent. Brand doesn't matter, this is an example:

 

[sandro1973]

I had the same issue. Syncing the TBs seems to help (one screw was screwed right in) but also, when I had it flashed the tuner found it was so weak at low throttle it was off the scale. Both rectified and problem solved


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The bike had a TB synch recently ( as well as valve adjustment ) and i noticed that what i found to be a lag / slow response below 3.000 rpm, in the first 3 gears, was all but gone after it was sorted out.

It goes well, even in TCS 2, S Mode, i can manage a steady throttle with no stuttering. It does some backfires in decceleration ( popcorn machine like ), which indicates there's some unburnt fuel going down the pipes. A couple of times i had some that were like a shotgun going off, but it's not a usual thing to happen.

I'm more inclined for a lean condition, more noticeable on cold starts, and i'll try to get it adressed the next time the bike goes to the shop. I don't know yet if i'll get it flashed, i'm pretty sure that if done properly, it'll work better with the K&N filter + Arrow can.

 

[Squibb]

Regular backfiring, if your bike still has a cat, suggests you may have an air leak in the exhaust system somewhere. Unless you have a burnt exhaust valve, then to create the bang you need not only unburnt fuel but also air/oxygen.

It's simple enough to check. First, remove any under ride protection to reveal the exhaust system. Then get the bike warmed up & have a buddy to hold a rag or towel firmly over the end can while you check underneath the bike. Wait for the engine to start to stumble. Any air leaks, maybe splits or cracks in the system, should soon show as exhaust pressure builds up.