Getting off the line

Tsherman

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Nov 20, 2022
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Austin
Any tips for getting my XTZ off the line?

I can’t say I’ve owned endless bikes (5 total/2 now) and this is my first parallel twin. But I either have to rev my bike to 3500 to get off the line OR rev to 2.5-3k and feather the clutch out OR risk stalling… and all the while my revs want to plummet.

I’m getting the hang of it more, but seems weird. And then the other day I found myself accidentally screaming my nline four to roll away from a stop.

is that normal for the super tenere? Is it a torquey twin call sign? Do y’all all have to do this?

wondering if raising the idle may make the gap between idle and required roll off revs lesser and therefore seem more ‘normal’.

Any insight as well as succinct product recommendations are appreciated. I’ve got a buddy who’s been chirping me about this xyz ecu mod to smooth throttle etc… but I’ve mostly been happy across the board. Just really hate having to consciously retrain myself on how to roll off the line. Also might investigate reducing decel chop.

new to the forums, new to my bike, and will probably be investigating various accessories over the next year. I’m finding: I hate the lights, wouldn’t mind a taller windscreen, and want a helmet lock. Other than that I’m pretty happy. Also need to investigate this first service for the shaft drive. Bought mine 7 yo with only 845m and just crossed 1k.

thanks all
 

Sierra1

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No, that's not normal, but an ECU flash isn't the answer for what it's doing either. The ECU flash can/will reduce the engine braking (decel chop). Put it in "S" mode and see if that makes a difference. Make sure your tires are properly inflated. Low tires can require more throttle to take off.

'Cuz, she should have no problems getting off the line. Mine pulls wonderfully, and I actually love the engine braking.
 

Tsherman

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Nov 20, 2022
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Austin
So you can roll off at 1750 or 2k? Mine would totally stall.

and I played in sport mode for a bit but found it too choppy. I couldn’t roll through a city intersection in traffic <10-15mph without risk of it jumping.

really having trouble with it in general <15mph

thanks for response!
 

holligl

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You might check your Throttle Body synchronization. If mine starts stalling that's typically the fix. I have found mine will also stall if I have heated gear on, pulling a load. Normally it will pull away even in second gear. For you, it may be as simple as a difference in the clutch action.

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Sierra1

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Holligl's answer makes more sense, but with only 845 miles, I don't know how they would have gotten out of synch so quickly.

But yes, mine pulls right from idle. . . . and just keeps getting happier.
 

Squibb

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Aug 10, 2014
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Bedford, UK
What is the story about that low mileage?

A lengthy lay-up would warrant detailed re-commissioning. Are there any codes showing?

Unless you are trying to set off in a high gear, the symptoms make no sense - these bikes have plenty of punch.
 

cyclemike4

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Sep 18, 2016
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ky
Any tips for getting my XTZ off the line?

I can’t say I’ve owned endless bikes (5 total/2 now) and this is my first parallel twin. But I either have to rev my bike to 3500 to get off the line OR rev to 2.5-3k and feather the clutch out OR risk stalling… and all the while my revs want to plummet.

I’m getting the hang of it more, but seems weird. And then the other day I found myself accidentally screaming my nline four to roll away from a stop.

is that normal for the super tenere? Is it a torquey twin call sign? Do y’all all have to do this?

wondering if raising the idle may make the gap between idle and required roll off revs lesser and therefore seem more ‘normal’.

Any insight as well as succinct product recommendations are appreciated. I’ve got a buddy who’s been chirping me about this xyz ecu mod to smooth throttle etc… but I’ve mostly been happy across the board. Just really hate having to consciously retrain myself on how to roll off the line. Also might investigate reducing decel chop.

new to the forums, new to my bike, and will probably be investigating various accessories over the next year. I’m finding: I hate the lights, wouldn’t mind a taller windscreen, and want a helmet lock. Other than that I’m pretty happy. Also need to investigate this first service for the shaft drive. Bought mine 7 yo with only 845m and just crossed 1k.

thanks all
Hello Tsherman. I think I understand your issues. My bike when it was new was just like yours. It still is to some extent. As a matter of fact my bike was dangerous to ride and only after owning it just a few days I thought I had made a big mistake buying it. My bike would stall rolling off the throttle. I absolutely loved it out in the country while I was going but hated it in traffic. Just too much thought to keep that thing running. I will tell you a lot of miles will help that situation. It did mine at least but I got rid of the stalling by opening the bypass screws on my throttle bodies. the forum consensus is 3/4 of a turn from bottom. I have mine at 1 3/4 turns from bottom. Both of mine were turned in to the bottom from factory. I have had them that way for about 100,000 miles. I have also added a booster plug. It is a item that changes the air temperature reading to the ecu. It makes it think the air is much cooler so it will add just a touch extra fuel. This also helped quit a bit. Still I have to watch the bike in traffic. It is so inconsistent at low RPM's it is hard to ride in traffic or stop and go stuff. I do have to still get the rpms up and slip the clutch and sound like a dork if I want to be confident taking off. It really isn't too bad now but it is there. this is the only bike I have ever owned that would not pull itself off the line at idle. It has nothing at idle. Actually from idle to 2500 it is pretty weak. not that the engine is weak it just isn't responding in a linear manner. I have read that a flash is supposed to help that and I have also read that a flash just made the bike run stronger but didn't help that issue at all. I do know a lot of people on this forum have had no issues with the bike running and others have. So some may be way better than others. After I got the bike to quit stalling I have adjusted my riding to ride around the defects so to speak. Like I said the changes and miles have helped mine tremendously so it really isn't too bad but it is not right either. Good luck and give it a fair chance and let it break in.
 

Cycledude

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It’s a VERY common complaint , I have owned a 2013 and a 2018 and they were both bad off the line and jerky at slow speeds, I pretty much just put up with it. Many claim ECU flash fixes it.
 

~TABASCO~

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Adjust the throttle body + 3/4 of a turn and then properly sync them. Start there…………



Then looks at air filter and plugs. I just came across a Tenere in ‘poor health’ and the air filter was part of the issue. This is wall insulation from a mice nest in the air box.

I’ve seen several nest recently. Everyone should keep an eye out on there air box over the winter. If you live in a place where there are many mice or rats, maybe try a metal cage over the intake of the air box. Or some other style to prevent the nest.



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magic

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I would give the bike a good going over first. Check over the obvious things like air filter, spark plugs and put some fresh gas in it maybe some injector cleaner. Make sure you have clean oil of the proper type for wet clutches. Then do the air screw adjustment, synchronize the throttle bodies and take the play out of the throttle cables. Also there was a recall on the early models for similar type problems 2010-2013 I think. Are you sure the problem isn't with the clutch? A 7 year old bike with 1,000 miles on it obviously has been sitting idle a lot, the clutch plates maybe stuck. Also check to make sure the brakes aren't dragging. There is a lot of info on this forum to help you.
 

Bokerfork

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A cheap and simple approach might be to adjust the clutch handle. I had similar problems when knew. Not quite as extreme, but I had trouble pulling away from a stop without stalling or over revving. I played around with the clutch handle adjuster until I got it to start engaging earlier. Quick, free, and easy. Try it before going to other extremes.
 

WJBertrand

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Ventura, CA
Another point that gave me some problems was a sticky clutch lever pivot. The lever was moving in a stick-slip manner as I released it, making smooth engagement impossible. The pivot was so dry I could hear it creaking when I pulled and released it.


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Wallkeeper

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My bike had been sitting on the floor room for over a year when I bought it. I had the SAME issue as Mr Bertrand. Try lubing up all of the external clutch parts..

FYI on level ground and at an idle I can pull from a stop if I am careful with the friction zone.

last, please read your forum mail (at top next to your name *S*)
 

Checkswrecks

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...Bought mine 7 yo with only 845m and just crossed 1k.
...
A few thoughts.

First, these engines take a surprisingly long time to break in, some up to 5,000 miles.

Second and after checking the filter as Tabasco said, I'd go heavy with Seafoam for the next few tanks of gas and just ride it to see how much some solvent can do to clean the injectors and open the fuel system orifices.

Then I'd start look for the threads on jets and syncing the throttle bodies as Tabasco, holligl, and cyclemike4 wrote.

Good luck and welcome to the group.
 

Tsherman

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Nov 20, 2022
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Location
Austin
What is the story about that low mileage?

A lengthy lay-up would warrant detailed re-commissioning. Are there any codes showing?

Unless you are trying to set off in a high gear, the symptoms make no sense - these bikes have plenty of punch.
one owner, guy in his now late 70s. I was feeling super weird about it too, butit runs great everywhere else.
 
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