Fuel Filters

[MIKE R]

I think that this is worth knowing.

On a recent tour my S10 developed a bad misfire which turned out to be blocked fuel filters in the petrol tank. Although probably caused by bad fuel in Denmark this might have blocked already contaminated filters.

The bike has always been serviced on time by authorised Yamaha mechanics or a VERY competent independent.

I checked the Yamaha service schedule in the UK handbook and there is no mention of a routine clean. I am now going to include this in every 12k service when the tank has to come off to change the plugs.

Mike

 

[Stridey]

Good point!
Yes this seems to get forgotten by manufactures in my experience. My MG Stelvio manual never mentioned fuel filter change recommendation. Surprised that Yamaha don’t include it on the service schedule? Perhaps it’s in the full manual. I’ll have a look later. I’ll get mine checked on the next service @24k miles when the tanks up for air filter plugs and valve check.


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[Nikolajsen]

Nice to know ::008::

 

[gv550]

Mike R , did you clean or replace the fuel filter? The service manual says the filter is not serviceable, and it isn't available from Yamaha as a separate part. It is integrated with the fuel pump, and replacing that as regular maintenance would be very expensive.

 

[abong]

The fuel filter is not changeable and Yamaha doesn’t sell it as a single part.. it comes together with the fuel pump assembly which cost nearly USD400.. however, u can carefully backflush those filter..


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[MIKE R]

The fuel filter is not changeable and Yamaha doesn’t sell it as a single part.. it comes together with the fuel pump assembly which cost nearly USD400.. however, u can carefully backflush those filter..


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I didn't do the work myself.....this was done by a local, highly recommended independent.

I was informed (if I remember correctly as the work was done about 3 months ago) that there is a 'tea bag' filter external to the fuel pump, and one inside the pump. These were both filthy and were cleaned using petrol. The injectors were also cleaned at the same time. When I got the bike back the misfire was gone

I was also advised to add Silkolene PRO FST Fuel System Treatment to a full tank to help remove any contaminant remaining in the injectors. This I did and within 100 miles the bike was running sweeter than I can ever remember.

Mike

 

[mebgardner]

I believe this is correct: An external "teabag" filter (which p/n can be found on this site) which is replaceable, and an internal filter to the pump which is replaceable only with replacing the pump.

The 12 K interval is probably a good interval to perform the check.

I also believe a valid test of that internal filter, is fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure from the pump drops below spec., then it's time to replace the pump (and filter) or backflush it, if you can figure out how to do it.

I have never heard of someone reversing polarity on the pump electrics, to backflush it. Would that work?

I keep a fuel pressure testing method on hand for this test. Pretty cheap ($25-40) for a "good quality", at most full service auto parts stores. The hard part of tat test is to get the tester in-line with the fuel sent to the manifold input. You either adapt the tester lines (if possible, this is best), or you buy an OEM fuel line, and splice the tester into it, then install it temporarly onto the cycle for the test. Yup, not easy. I hate messing with fuel.

 

[BWC]

They can be serviced..........sort of.

This one was recently removed and serviced out of my 13 at 45,000 km. By taking it apart, which is pretty easy once removed from the tank, it can be "back flushed" against the fuel flow direction to get a bit more use out of it. Replacing the filter is what's really needed. It would be nice if Yamaha would sell the filter as a separate item.
When removing the pump from the tank there is a small clip on the side of the filter housing that must be compressed with a small screwdriver to release the whole pump assembly from the tank. You have to be carefull with it as the fuel gauge float arm could be damaged or bent.
I used a full tin of brake cleaner by filling up the filter after dissembling it from the pump and blowing it out with low pressure compressed air against the normal fuel flow numerous times.

This is some of what came out after the first couple of flushings. The fuel strainer really only keeps out the large stuff with the fine dirt and any water being trapped in the main filter. The main filter seems to be able to handle a fair amount of contamination before it causes problems, but rough running and starting on one cylinder can happen.

And this is the old unit out of my 12 which I had back flushed in the past but did eventually replace.
The original fuel strainer is shown directly below the fuel pump inlet, the one at the bottom is an aftermarket replacement which fits the pump inlet but doesn't have a means of mechanical attachment to the bottom of the pump which could allow the filter screen to come off.
The collar shown just beside it is what holds the OEM filter screen on.
The top half moon one is another one available which fits better and does use the OEM collar and a small clip to hold it on. There are also very small, fine screens in the fuel injector inlets but I haven't had any reason to go further and clean them.
Got the filter screen from these guys.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/ag-1307437.1305925.1307358.1308086.1306650-motorcycle-2012-yamaha-super-tenere-xtz12-efi.html

They sell a Tenere pump/filter screen and when asked will sell the filter screen separately as I've haven't had any issues with the pump itself, just the screens and filters.

And where the hell does this guy buy his fuel you ask? Same as everyone else when I'm travelling, but I have done quite a few rides north and some of the stations you end up using often look a little suspect.

 

[MIKE R]

Some really good information there.

Thank you

Mike

 

[mebgardner]

Good Schooling, BWC. Thank You!

Can someone please tell me if the '13 p/n is the same for the '14+ model? I would like to know if what is shown above as disassembly tutorial, is applicable to the later model as well.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Good Schooling, BWC. Thank You!

Can someone please tell me if the '13 p/n is the same for the '14+ model? I would like to know if what is shown above as disassembly tutorial, is applicable to the later model as well.

Pump assemblies didn't change
https://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d843f87002275461de7e/fuel

 

[Paqard]

BWC have you seen this

https://guglatech.it/en/products/M22006-Y . I was thinking of getting one myself as the filter is so small in these bikes. This guy has been selling them over on ADV Rider for some time. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/fuel-filtration-system-in-or-below-fuel-cap-for-ktm-bmw-and-others.1054490/#post-26492591

 

[stutrump]

I seem to remember someone on here saying that one of the filters is exactly the same as an 'off the shelf' Suzuki one, but I can't remember which model Suzuki.
My old S10 did 106,000 miles without me changing or cleaning the fuel filter. I did attemp it once but couldn't get the fuel pump out of the tank. I'd love to see a pictorial on how to get that bloomin fuel pump out!

 

[BWC]

BWC have you seen this

https://guglatech.it/en/products/M22006-Y . I was thinking of getting one myself as the filter is so small in these bikes. This guy has been selling them over on ADV Rider for some time. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/fuel-filtration-system-in-or-below-fuel-cap-for-ktm-bmw-and-others.1054490/#post-26492591

Looks like an intank prefilter would certainly help.
To be fair the main filter seems to have enough capacity to handle a fair bit of contamination and seldom needs servicing judging by the few issues we have seen reported here.
This checking the pump started after myself and another local rider were returning from an extended ride. Near the end of the ride his bike was not ideling well and on the last morning started reluctantly on one cylinder. Finding the problem led us to the pump. I checked mine at the same time and it was also dirty, maybe just not quite as bad as my bike was still running fine, but it was pretty nasty when it was cleaned.

And as mentioned removing the pump from the tank is pretty straight forward. Tank almost empty, lean it vertically against something, remove the bolts and when the pump doesn't want to come all the way out look around at the pump body for the small plastic clip or arm by the fuel gauge sender that needs to be compressed a small amount to let the pump come the rest of the way out.

The small piece the screwdriver is on.

 

[stutrump]

Thanks BWC. I'll try again once it's warm enough to spend some time in the garage!

 

[Commuter Boy]

The Bandit 1250 had a tea bag filter with the same size neck, it's shared across a lot of models.

The Bandit guys found the filter discolored very quickly, but it didn't affect the filtering.

We had a similar pump screen and would clean it off when the pump was out to change the filter.

Mine was working fine at 70,000 km but I had the tank off to do some maintenance and swapped it out and cleaned the screen. It wasn't overly grungy.

 

[mebgardner]

I'm still a little confused, so please bear with me. Thanks...

So far, I've seen a remove and replace pictorial on what I will call the "teabag" filter. That's the one I was referring to earlier as replaceable, and demonstrated to be replaceable in this thread.

My confusion is, I thought there was another filter embedded in the pump assembly "downstream", fuel wise", from the teabag filter.

That is, I thought there was another filter in the pump plastic housing assembly interior, along with the pump motor.

Is this the case, or no?

I mention this, because I've been owner to many of these cycles with embedded fuel pumps, and they were all the way I describe up to this point: An "external" teabag filter, and a non-replaceable inner fuel filter (not strainer type, but paper / membrane type).

We cracked open old pump housings to examine them. Usually, pumps with low fuel pressure had these interior membrane type filters badly clogged, and replacing the exterior "teabag" would not solve that issue.

Everything I've described up to this point does not talk about a "strainer". Many inmates would add an aftermarket strainer underneath the gas cap, and it drops into the gas cap opening to "live" inside the fuel tank. A sort of "1st stage" filtering, prior to the fuel pump "duo".

Some inmates also attempted to add an aftermarket in-line filter, in-line with the high pressure pump output to the throttle body manifold input. That's usually a bad idea, because it lowers the fuel pressure to the manifold, usually too much pressure loss. Some would try, and get the high pressure in-line types, and sometimes it works out and sometimes it does not, with sometimes being a spectacular fire event

You rolls the dice, you's takes your chances...

 

[BWC]

I'm still a little confused, so please bear with me. Thanks...

So far, I've seen a remove and replace pictorial on what I will call the "teabag" filter. That's the one I was referring to earlier as replaceable, and demonstrated to be replaceable in this thread.

My confusion is, I thought there was another filter embedded in the pump assembly "downstream", fuel wise", from the teabag filter.

That is, I thought there was another filter in the pump plastic housing assembly interior, along with the pump motor.

Is this the case, or no?

Maybe these will help.

Fuel pump body containing the main internal fuel filter and pump.

Inside of the filter body with the electric pump removed and where fuel exits the pump under pressure into the internal filter.

And where filtered fuel exits under pressure from the internal filter on its way to the injectors. This is where I added the cleaner and forced it backwards to the normal flow to flush the internal filter.
The "teabag" or "filter screen" is the small, external, replaceable one on the pump inlet shown in my previous post.

It looks like the filter screen on the pump inlet is there to protect the pump from any large contamination damage, and the main internal pump body filter is there to catch everything else and protect the fuel injectors.

 

[mebgardner]

That's very helpful, thank you so much!

I'll state a point of further clarification: You have shown pictures of the external "teabag", and pictures of the results of the internal filter being flushed (the dirty, captured liquid from the backflush).

The are no pictures of the internal filter, because you can not get them: It's sealed within the pump, and that main filter is not replaceable.

So, the "stack up" is: Gas in tank, Through the "teabag", then through the pump which pressurizes the fuel, then through the main internal / not replaceable (but flushable) filter, then pressurized fuel onto the manifold, to the TBs.

You've been very helpful and patient with me, thanks so much.

 

[WrongLane]

Not sure if this will fit or the quality of the part as its from Ali, but just happened to come across this while browsing:

2010-2014 OEM EFI Fuel Pump for Yamaha XT1200Z
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2010-2014-OEM-EFI-Fuel-Pump-for-Yamaha-XT1200Z-XT-1200-Z-20111-2012-2013-Part/32653712940.html