Checkswrecks said:
True on the Tenere that all the front pistons are hydraulically linked, versus the specific side of the right caliper in the FJR. So the reasons are different and my bad for citing them in making a too-quick post.
However, the context remains that uneven wear is common on most disc brakes and the tire change is an opportunity to even it out. Each of the Tenere front tires I've changed has exposed a more worn inboard front right brake pad, as shown in the Photo on page 1 of this thread, and copied below:
I use a 5,000 mile schedule for checks and oil changes, which includes cleaning & re-lubing the caliper pins. It's made zero difference for uneven brake pad wear on the Tenere. One pad wears quicker than the other three and it's always been the inboard right.
A lot of owners here come fromt he FJR or ST1300. The FJR right front has the linked rear and wears faster, while my old boss and the other ST1300 owners experience the same on their left front.
So again, it takes only a couple of minutes and I still suggest the simple line that I did in my first post:
"Swap the thinnest pad with the thickest while the wheel is off."
Adding that while the pads are out is a chance to clean the caliper contact surfaces for the pads and that you could even re-lube the slider pins.
For full disclosure, some people won't swap pads because the absolute stopping distance may increase for the miles required for the pads to re-bed to the different side of the rotor. They will replace full sets only and not try to maximize pad life. Of course, they will also have slightly longer stopping distances before the new sets of pads bed, as well.
This is another one of those cases where familiarity with one bike can often cause confusion and potential problems.
So let's look at this point by point...
While it may be the case that your particular Super Tenere wears that one pad quicker than others it may not be the case for other ones. While for various reasons I don't necessarily agree with swapping the "thinnest pad for the thickest" there's no major problem with it if your only goal is to eek out every single mile of a set of pads. Sure people should check their calipers and pads at tire changes, but to do so requires removing *BOTH* calipers during front wheel removal, not "only one brake caliper needs to be removed" as you suggested in your first post in the thread. While it's true only one caliper needs to be removed to pull the wheel, both definitely need to be removed if you're gonna' do close inspection of all pads and pad retaining pins.
Which brings us to those front pad pins...
On the Super Tenere (and I'm not going to mention any other bikes here so as to *AVOID* confusion) the front calipers each have four pistons, two pressing on the inner pad and two pressing on the outer pad. This is quite different from the rear caliper, which has only one piston that presses on the outer pad. The inner pad mounts to the caliper housing, and that housing is mounted on carrier via some bolt *PINS*. When the rear caliper piston presses on its pad it moves the entire caliper over to engage the inner pad, which requires it to slide on those bolt *PINS*, and because of this sliding these bolt *PINS* need to be lubricated... That's one reason they have little boots on them - so dirt and grit doesn't get into the grease on those bolt pins.
OTOH, the little pins in the front calipers are there simply to keep the pads from falling out. The calipers themselves mount rigidly to caliper carriers on the forks. No sliding of the calipers takes place up front.
Now why is this important? Because while Yamaha recommends and specifies specific lube for the *REAR* caliper bolt pins, Yamaha does *NOT* recommend any lube whatsoever for the caliper retaining pins in the front calipers. In fact, you really shouldn't use any lube at all on those pins. Because they directly touch the pad backing plates, and those backing pads dissipate the heat from the pad, and lube you put on those front pad retaining pins could easily liquefy any lube and have it run down onto the backing plate, and maybe even the pad. Granted, any lube was applied extremely judiciously and was high-heat enough the chances of getting lube on the pad may be minimal, but the fact remains that *NO* lube is recommend or specified for these front pad pins. Instead, they should be carefully cleaned, and if you really want to make sure that no surface qualities impede the very tiny movement the pads may make along them then simply polish them up. A small amount of elbow grease, a bit of 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, and maybe even some metal polish will do all you need.
Point is simple... Do *NOT* lube the front caliper retaining pins. Just clean and polish them up, wipe them carefully before insertion, and you're done.
OTOH, you certainly should use the proper lubricant on the rear caliper retaining bolt pins, but that's really for the other thread.
While there may be some Super Tenere owners that come from either Yamaha FJR's or Honda ST1300's, the vast majority probably didn't, and may have come from V-stroms, KLR's, cruisers, etc., etc.... You name it. As with any bike it's important not to treat it exactly like your previous mount, but instead learn all you can about your new bike so you do what it needs. Certainly bring your past experience and wrenching skills from previous bikes along, but don't forget that what worked on one bike may not be what that new one needs.
Just FYI...
Dallara
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