Front Wheel Removal and Replacement Pictorial

[Twisties]

To remove the front wheel you will need:

19 mm hex
6 mm hex
4 mm hex
12 mm socket
Torque wrenches
Breaker bar

I also use a floor jack and a pair of straps, but other items may work.

Keep magnets away, or you can damage the speed sensor. Never operate the brake when the caliper is removed. Avoid banging the speed sensors, avoid solvents on the speed sensors. Ensure that the bike is properly supported.


1. Support the bike securely so that the front wheel is off the ground. I do this with the bike on the center stand. I hook a strap on either side near the back of the bike for extra stability. Be sure they are tensioned evenly, and do not pull the bike over onto you. I place a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the front of the skid plate, and lift until the back wheel just contacts the ground, then retension the two security straps. Be sure not to lift the front enough to unweight the center stand.

2. Remove the speed sensor (4 mm hex tool):

3. Remove the brake calipers (12 mm socket):

Start with the left lower bolt as it retains the speed sensor cable. Note how the speed sensor cable runs through the clip.

Then remove the left upper bolt:

Pull the caliper straight away:

and let it hang free:

Now remove the right caliper:

You can take a look at your brake pads and rotors if you like:

4. Loosen the two pinch bolts (6 mm hex tool). Note that for reassembly the inner pinch bolt must be torqued first. EDIT (Thanks to MarkJenn): After torquing the outer pinch bolt, go back and retorque the inner one, e.g. Inner... outer.... inner. /EDIT The image shows the hex tool working on the inner pinch bolt:

5. Remove the axle (19 mm hex tool and breaker bar)

Break it free then spin it until it is unthreaded. Then just pull it free by hand.

6. Remove wheel.

The wheel is now free. Work it out.

This spacer is friction fit on the right side. It may fall out or interfere with tire mounting. I usually just pull it free and set it aside.

Here is the left side of the wheel. The speed sensor housing is just sitting in there loose and will fall out. Remove it.

Note the two flanges I am pointing out on the speed sensor housing. For reassembly these must be properly aligned and engaged with the tab on the left fork. See here:

Like so:

To reinstall, reverse the procedure. Be sure the speed sensor housing is properly aligned. Be sure the speed sensor cable is properly routed. EDIT (Thanks to Yamaguy55): After the brake calipers and axle have been re-installed (axle is threaded but not torqued), and before tightening the axle, hold the front brake and compress the front forks vigorously several times to align the suspension. If, like me, you have the bike on a lift, or otherwise secured, you can complete the job, then when the bike is on the ground loosen the pinch bolts and axle, compress the forks and retorque. /EDIT Be sure to torque the inner pinch bolt first EDIT then the outer, then the inner again /EDIT.

Torque specifications are:

Axle = 72 Nm or 52 ft-lbs
Two Pinch bolts = 21 Nm or 15 ft-lbs (The inside pinch bolt is tightened first)
Front brake caliper to forks = 40 Nm or 29 ft-lbs
Front speed sensor front brake hose holder bolt = 7 NM or 5.1 ft-lbs

 

[Twisties]

A little more detail on the speed sensor cable routing.

The cable is routed behind the fork and dangling free:

Hold the reflector bracket as shown:

Slip the cable into the wire retainer loop:

Turn the reflector counter clockwise until it is in position to install:

Install the reflector bracket/brake caliper screw.

Then install the speed sensor.

 

[markjenn]

Another nice job.

Never heard of any need to torque the axle pinch bolts in any particular order, but you're right, the shop manual specs that you go inner > outer > inner, not to do any further tightening, and also says NOT to perform "temporary tightening" which I assume means you want to bring the bolts up to full torque on each of the three times you do it, rather than work incrementally up to full torque on both bolts as I would typically do it. This probably means that when you're done, the inner bolt is at full torque and the outer is slightly less. (I can't imagine that anything would be harmed by simply tightening incrementally to full and equal torque across both bolts in any order, but that's what Yamaha says.)

- Mark

 

[Yamaguy55]

Thanks a lot for going to the trouble to do this.
There is one thing I'd do different, although I'm not sure it matters here. I put the bike on the ground, and hold the brake and compress the forks several times before I tighten the axle clamp bolts, to be sure the forks "found" their own unloaded spacing. I do this with all of my bikes, and on some, it does make a difference.

But that is a personal preference, and I don't mean to say anything other than "Outstanding" for your photo essays. Thanks again. ::012::

 

[Twisties]

Thanks a lot for going to the trouble to do this.
There is one thing I'd do different, although I'm not sure it matters here. I put the bike on the ground, and hold the brake and compress the forks several times before I tighten the axle clamp bolts, to be sure the forks "found" their own unloaded spacing. I do this with all of my bikes, and on some, it does make a difference.

But that is a personal preference, and I don't mean to say anything other than "Outstanding" for your photo essays. Thanks again. ::012::

The service manual does indicate that should be done. Since I have the bike on a lift and secured, what I do is finish up, then ride the bike. So far it has always been smooth. If I need to realign it would be easy to loosen the pinch bolt and axle on the ground, bounce, and retorque. Sharon's bike was out of alignment when it came home from the dealer new. The effect was very pronounced. My take is that if all the other front fork parts are undisturbed it is probably not typically necessary on this bike, but yes, the service manual does call for it and I should have mentioned it. Just trying to keep things simple.

 

[Yamaguy55]

My WR will bind slightly if I don't bounce it a few times first. I think it is because of the way the axle goes through the forks: it is "grippier" than it would seem to be. Both sides are clamps on that.

I have the factory Super Tenere manual, but tend not to read details, but skim over them.

A drawback of doing some things a lot, for a long long time. Another of my many problems. Many many problems. ::005::

Cheers. ::003::

 

[fredz43]

Thanks for the fine pics and writeup, Twisties. I have found that I only need to remove one caliper to remove and replace the front wheel.

 

[tomatocity]

Thanks for the fine pics and writeup, Twisties. I have found that I only need to remove one caliper to remove and replace the front wheel.

Which caliper or does it matter?

 

[cb0802]

This post has been a great help in removing my tires, but I have a question about the front axle.
I have a 19mm lug nut that fits perfect into the axle. I am trying to use a cresent wrench, and the axle isn't budging. Any recommendations? I will get a breaker bar, but don't want to force it and break something.

 

[Dallara]

This post has been a great help in removing my tires, but I have a question about the front axle.
I have a 19mm lug nut that fits perfect into the axle. I am trying to use a cresent wrench, and the axle isn't budging. Any recommendations? I will get a breaker bar, but don't want to force it and break something.

Have you loosened the pinch bolts?

Dallara


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[cb0802]

Pinch bolts loosend, but not removed. I can probably muscle it loose, but just want to make sure that I don' tbreak anything in the process.

 

[Karson]

I needed a 1/2" breaker when I did mine. Even a 1/2" ratchet wasn't enough leverage. Isn't it torqued to ~90 ft lbs?


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[Dallara]

I needed a 1/2" breaker when I did mine. Even a 1/2" ratchet wasn't enough leverage. Isn't it torqued to ~90 ft lbs?


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52 ft/lbs for the front axle (pinch bolts are torqued to 15 ft/lbs).

Rear axle is 90 ft/lbs at the nut (its pinch bolt is 18 ft/lbs).

As per the Yamaha factory service manual.

Dallara


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[markjenn]

Isn't it torqued to ~90 ft lbs?

The front axle is 52 ft-lb; the rear axle nut is 90.

- Mark

 

[Higstatic]

Thanks for the write up, great info. ::008::

On the FJR when the speed sensor was out it was recomended to lightly grease it before reassembly to prevent the possibility of it seizing in the housing. Could this be worthwhile on the S10.

 

[cb0802]

Done. Just needed a little leverage.

 

[mbabc]

Perfect! Another great forum resource.

I did find on another forum how you can use the reverse end of a 5/8's spark plug socket as a 19mm hex. How cool is that???
Saved me a few bucks...my KLR past comes out again....

 

[switchback]

Thanks Twisties! Pushed the Tourance EXPs way too long at 8400 miles. The bike needed attention. Caliper bolts loose, speed sensor wire misrouted and smashed by reflector bracket. I swear that Plaza Cycle must have the least qualified mechanics on the planet. Anyway, thanks to your guide the process of changing tires went smooth and the bike is finally assembled correctly.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Which caliper or does it matter?

For some reason, I never opened this thread. Nicely done - I have one potential addition to suggest.


For the FJR and Super Tenere, only one brake caliper needs to be removed. Make it the right side caliper and check the brake pads. Because the right inboard is linked to the rear, it wears far faster than the other 3 pads. This is shown in your 12th photo.


So to that photo, my suggestion is to add:
Swap the thinnest pad with the thickest while the wheel is off.


Thanks!

 

[Dallara]

For the FJR and Super Tenere, only one brake caliper needs to be removed. Make it the right side caliper and check the brake pads. Because the right inboard is linked to the rear, it wears far faster than the other 3 pads. This is shown in your 12th photo.

Just curious... Are you trying to say that only the inboard pistons and pad on the front right brake caliper are the ones linked to the rear brake on the Super Tenere?

If so, please explain how you arrive at this conclusion? Especially since there is only one brake hydraulic hose going from the brake junction below and just aft of the steering stem to the left caliper with then a single hose that crosses over from the left front caliper to the right front caliper...

Sure seems to me that all the front brake pistons and their respective pads are "linked" to the rear brake through the ABS junction/pump/control unit.

Dallara



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