Front Tire Cupping

[Simmer]

Hey guys. Bought this bike with about 3000km on it with new tires on it from a dealer. Tire pressures checked daily before rides and kept to spec. Had nasty front tire cupping on these Michelin Anakee 3s 80/20s after about 5000km and figured it might have been the road conditions. So....next year doing more off road decided to put Mitas E07s (60/40) on and same thing......about 5000 km and not as bad as Anakees but still crappy cupping. Again running PSI to spec and a bit more on the front to see if it made any difference.

QUESTION.....Im 240ishLbs, I carry loaded saddle bags and top case as well as a drybag behind me. What are most guys running on the S10's for tire pressures? Anyone else have front tire cupping? is my PSI too low on front? Rear tire was fine. Always the front.

 

[RCinNC]

I've had bad front tire cupping after about 6000 miles when I'm riding on a Shinko 705. I haven't had the same consistent issue with other tires like Battlewings or E07's. For the Shinkos, I've tried varying the pressure from a low of 36 PSI (a recommended pressure from other riders) up to the factory recommended maximum of 42 PSI, but I still have that same wear issue. I suspect it's a combination of the load on the bike (('m a big guy, and I ride a lot loaded two-up), the way I ride, and the tire construction. I look at it as an unfortunate trade off for what is otherwise a pretty decent low cost tire.

 

[Simmer]

I'm thinking the same. My buddy who rides the identical bike doesn't have the same issues as me but he's also 50Lbs lighter than I am also. It might just be my size and yes.....I have also just figured that it's a trade off. Just was hoping that there was an easy fix but apparently not.

 

[Simmer]

Whats the agreed upon Front and rear PSI for these bikes? What are most guys running with success?

 

[Sierra1]

This is kinda hard to say for sure. Too many guys running too many different tires with too many different loads. Obviously, more weight requires more psi. Just don't go over the tire's max capacity or pressure.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Ive seen this with many tires and many riders... IMOP, it sometimes boils down to two things, air pressure and the type of ridder someone is with the brakes. This is more obvious with "knob-type" tires. If you find you are easy on the brakes and keep a close eye on pressure I dont tend to see any issues. The folks that I do see issues with are ones that are (either or both) hard on the brakes and or wrong tire pressure...

For instance, Ill use myself... If I run a knob tire and I want it to last to reach a BDR, Im intentionally keeping the speeds "lower" and trying my best not to brake hard if at all possible. I currently have a MOTOZ ADV that looks virtually new and ready to go with 4000+ miles on them.... On the other hand Ive seen many You-Tube videos where other guys have the exact same tire and it's totally trash, cupped, and destroyed in 1500 miles and they are not happy and complaining about the same tire. In some videos the guy says he has been ridding hard on it (but it's absolutely destroyed) with the same tire I have with 4000+ miles and virtually looks new.
Point being, we all ride different. Not a 'right or wrong' situation. But how we ride our bike has a HUGE difference on how tires will perform and last. Im NOT pointing fingers, it's just an exercise on (everyone) having the right tire for how and where you ride, and then specifically HOW you ride the bike.
If I was handed a set of tires and told to ruin them as fast as possible, I could probably cook virtually any set in less than a 1000 miles. With hard acceleration, diving deep and fast into turns, and hard braking. It would be fun, but the tires would be dead....... No one rides the exact same, we all will end up with a different conclusion.

Stick on a new set of tires that only you have ridden, be safe, but make mental note on how you brake, and how much front versus rear.... and always keep an eye on the pressure within a few pounds... I think you will probably answer all your own questions. If you're currently in more of a road tire and you find this type of wear, be mindful that with knob type tires it can become much more of an issue much faster (wear, cupping, funky knob wear, strange wear leads to much more vibration, Etc). The knobs are excellent for dirt, but if anyone wants them to last worth a Hoot, folks have to chill the hell out on the normal pavement roads. Otherwise the knobs will wear quickly and you then might be disappointed. Knobs also dont like high speed. I didn't say they might not be rated "safe", and I didnt say they could not go fast... If you want them to last, SLOW DOWN. High speed gets the tires hot and then just cooks the knobs right off, just going down the highway fast. I have friends that still do 75-90 with knob type tires and they get way less miles than I do because I probably do 60-70. Currently my MOTOZ ADV tires at this pace could probably get 8K total on the rear, and probably 9-10K out off the front. I religiously baby them on the tarmac and ride hard off road.

Of course this is just personal thoughts and experience..... everyone has their own ideas.........

 

[Simmer]

With hard acceleration, diving deep and fast into turns, and hard braking.

Hey that's me ! I'll buy that. Makes sense because my buddy rides much more easy than I do. I'll give it a try. Won't be as much fun but Ill try !

 

[WJBertrand]

I ride with a friend who’s about my weight, but I used to be 50 lbs heavier. Same bike, same tires and we ride at a similar pace. We even have the same reflash from Tony. He consistently chews up tires faster and gets worse gas mileage than me. On a long trip once we traded bikes for a couple of tanks. I still got better gas mileage on his bike than he did on mine!

I’ve got to think it’s all down to differences in riding style based on that experience. What specifically those differences are I’ve no idea.


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[~TABASCO~]

Hey that's me ! I'll buy that. Makes sense because my buddy rides much more easy than I do. I'll give it a try. Won't be as much fun but Ill try !

Absolutely..... Anyone can ride anyway they like, with any tires they like..... BUT, if they want 50/50 tires or even ADV tires to last worth a damn, the rider has to fallow a few 'rules'. LOL I agree, it's boring............ But I want to use my ADV tires for dirt, half way across the US... Always a realistic give and take.

Sometimes on the way home from my camp / off road trips I abuse my ADV tires and just ride any way I want on the way home... I dont even think about it, I just have fun and blast around... But when I get home Im just about ready for another set.... That just the price we pay with riding hard on ADV tires....

And Ive run into a TON of folks on ADV bikes that use them for touring and absolutely no off road..... These folks would best be suited with straight up street tires. Last longer, smoother ride, and some other better 'road' characteristics...... Once again, just depends on where people ride, and how they ride ! This will lead to much better performance and and fulfilling a greater expectation on what you're doing with the machine !

 

[Sierra1]

Hey that's me ! I'll buy that. Makes sense because my buddy rides much more easy than I do. I'll give it a try. Won't be as much fun but Ill try !

Or, continue riding like you enjoy and don't worry about the cupping . . . . like I do. It doesn't cause any issues.

 

[RCinNC]

You may want to experiment with different tires and figure out which one best suits how you ride. I ride a lot of 705's because they're cheap, and I go through about three rear tires per year. If I put a front Shinko on in January, I'll probably have to replace it by fall.

My experience with Mitas E07's was very different. I rode out to Colorado a few years back, and put a new set on before the trip. We rode all over Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico. Most of the trip out to Colorado was not on interstates, and once out there, we rode a lot of twisty asphalt and dirt. I couldn't say how long that trip was exactly, but at least 4500 miles. The Mitas tires did show wear once we got home, of course, but they weren't cupped the way the Shinkos would get. My riding style didn't change, and I was still the same guy with the same passenger as usual. The only real variable between my usual riding around home and the cross country ride was the tires. I made that trip in June, and I was still riding on the E07s throughout that summer.

The fact that the Shinko front tires wear in a weird way doesn't bother me, beyond the fact that they get a little lumpier feeling at low speeds and they make a little more noise at higher speed. Their performance doesn't seem to change when they get like that.

 

[TenereGUY]

I'm going to mention a point that hasn't been talked-about and it is the reason why tires cup. It has a lot to do with the front suspension and the need to upgrade it if your weight, style of riding, environment you ride in is cupping your tires. Your suspension is inadequately damped. You may play with your damping adjustment and it may take care of the problem.
I'll give an example. I also ride a 2015 Goldwing and Goldwing's are well known for cupping. The factory tire pressure for front is around 36 but most people will put it at 42 to slow down the cupping. It only delays the inevitable though. I went to Traxxion Dynamics suspension and got the works on my Goldwing. At 5500 miles the front tire was noticeably cupping. They upgraded the internals and also put linear springs in it for my usual load out... my weight, usual load, two up and aggressive riding style in the twisties. I also got their billet triple clamp. They told me my cupping problem would now go away and never come back and I should LOWER my front tire pressure down to 32 - 34#. I rode out of Marietta, Georgia and on my way back to Illinois I traveled through the Appalachian mountains. Within 800 miles my tires cupping was gone. Yep smooth... and it has never come back and my bike absorbs those little road cracks because my tire pressuse is so much lower. My contact patch is larger too.
This Tenere comes stock with progressive wound springs. Sure it makes for a cushy ride on the road if you go easy, are the weight it was engineered for and don't load the bike.
You need suspension engineered for your weight, load, style of riding (aggressive, road only or off road mixture). Suspension upgrades are the best bang for your buck as they pay big dividends in less tires to buy, comfort each and every mile you ride and a more stable bike when the suspension is doing its job and also safer too. Once you experience the difference it will be the first on your list to do on any you buy... hence why I did mine before riding it. I can also transfer the AK-20 dampers to the next bike too.
Cushy or not it still is inadequate and progressive springs were all the rage in the 80's and 90's but they are gone in the sport bike world and in other good suspension designs. Manufacturers still use them so they can lower the cost per unit. Let's face facts... most MC riders don't push their bikes or put a lot of miles on per year and don't know enough to notice.
I just did my forks and bought the Traxxion Dynamics Springs and AK-20 damper and took out the stock stuff before I even rode my bike ( I rode it for the short test ride) why would I do that for the cost of it? Better comfort, safety and longer tire wear. Over the rough stuff this past weekend and my fork suspension just smoothly gobbled up the terrain.

I only have 500 miles on it in the past weekend. 200 on rock, baby heads, loose gravel and dirt. 300 on the road. My MotoZ Tractionator Adventure tires look new after beating them up this weekend.
So I'm curious. Those with cupping problems... I am guessing that you are most likely to be bigger than avg, load the bike up or ride two up...
Watch the video of Max McCallister from Traxxion Dynamics explain it. Yes, he is talking Goldwings but the cause of tire cupping is the same for the Super Tenere.

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[Simmer]

I totally agree. It's definitely bike specific and not tire specific. As for a suspension upgrade I'm not sure its on my radar. I couldn't justify upgrading the suspension. I'd rather just replace the front tire every year and deal with it. Frustrating yes but it doesn't affect my ride. It's more of a nuisance than anything. I completely appreciate the information provided and hopefully if others read this they can have options.

 

[Fennellg]

My friend seems to have this problem follow him and his bikes. The two I have seen this with him has been a FJR, and a GS. He says same deal with his Badit. I on the other hand get 10 to 12k on overage. 14 to 15 If I push it. 2 By this time I am suffering with a squared rear and cupped front. My bikes 2 Harleys and a Supper Tenere.

He is shorter than I am but definitely heavier.

 

[Simmer]

I have a 2012 Street Glide. No tire issues whatsoever. I also have a 2022 FJR1300 but dont have enough miles on it to tell. I will know after this summer on the FJR and will update.

 

[TenereGUY]

I have a 2012 Street Glide. No tire issues whatsoever. I also have a 2022 FJR1300 but dont have enough miles on it to tell. I will know after this summer on the FJR and will update.

Fork spring upgrade doesn't cost much at all and will make a difference especiallyif your bike is older than 3 years. New oil and new springs! Fork oil should be replaced every 2 to 3 years. If you've never replaced it then you would be amazed at how nasty it gets after 10 to 15,000 miles.

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[Sierra1]

I have a 2012 Street Glide. No tire issues whatsoever. I also have a 2022 FJR1300 but dont have enough miles on it to tell. I will know after this summer on the FJR and will update.

The FJR can be a cupping monster depending on tire choice. It's heavy, capable of stupid speed, and great brakes. Don't worry about cupping. Ride more, worry less.