Front brake light switch/cruise issue

Saint rob

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I decided to have a go at repairing my sticking front brake light switch which was causing a cruise malfunction and causing the brake light to stay on. It's an easy enough job and definitely worth having a go before parting with £140 odd for a new one - even though my bike was out of warranty by 1 day when Yamaha extended the warranty by 3 months on all motorcycles in the UK due to Covid.
You don't need to disconnect the switch before removal, but I would advise not turning the ignition on until you've completed the job, just undo the 1 screw shown below
IMG-5346.jpg
Once removed, the switch is easy to pull downwards. When you've gained access to it you need to cut the cable tie to free the cable - be careful not to nick the cable or the outer sheath
With the cable tie removed you will notice the 4 legs of the top cover to the switch assembly, the fiddliest bit of the job is gently pulling those legs back so that you can remove the top and slide it along the cable. I did them 2 at a time - first one side then the other to release them, sliding it back is the easy bit. The photo below shows what I mean and also shows the 4 legs.
IMG-5343.jpg
After lifting off the rubber block - dont lose it, you will be able to pull out both of the switches. Looking at the assembly as it's shown in the photo, the right hand switch is your brake light switch and the left one is the cruise switch. It is the brake lamp switch that causes the cruise issues, I flushed it out 2 or 3 times with switch/contact cleaner whilst repeatedly working the switch before letting it dry for 10 minutes. You could do both switches but I decided that since there didn't appear to be a problem with the other one I'd leave it alone - if it aint broke dont fix it.
I then gave each switch a liberal coating of dielectric grease before re-inserting them back into the assembly, replacing the rubber block (when I eventually figured out how to orientate it!) at least you won't have that problem with the photo above and then slipping the cover back down clipping it back into place as shown below
IMG-5344.jpg
And then threaded a new cable tie re-secure the cable
IMG-5345.jpg
I then cut the tail off the cable tie and refitted back to the bike, obviously you need to ease back the brake lever slightly to get it back in there but it slips in really easily, don't forget to tighten the srew properly and it might be a good idea to put some thread lock on to stop it vibrating out in the future.

You could of course test it before replacing it, just remember that when it's not fitted to the bike the brake light will be illuminated until you press the plunger to turn it off. With the plunger held down turn the ignition switch on, activate your cruise button and voi la - no flashing cruise light and you've saved £140 odd
 

escapefjrtist

Searching for Dry Roads
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Snohomish WA
Good information. Had to perform the same surgery on my FJR to fix the malfunctioning CC. Careful with reassembly as the switches are tiny!

~G
 

Saint rob

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Good information. Had to perform the same surgery on my FJR to fix the malfunctioning CC. Careful with reassembly as the switches are tiny!

~G
They are small and it can get a bit fiddly, especially if you suffer with sausage finger syndrome.
I guess it would be easier to perform surgery on the bench but then you've got the hassle of removing fairings and fishing the wires out and putting them back in again afterwards.
 

bobbar

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Apr 24, 2014
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Hobe Sound, Florida
Thanks. Made it simple to do, especially to pic with the rubber bumper thing. I screwed w that for for a while till I went inside and opened the post again!
 

Abercrombie tenere

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I assume you guys are aware of the brake switch recall that was just issued on many Yamahas? There is some confusion which years are all included in the recall.
 

Saint rob

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I assume you guys are aware of the brake switch recall that was just issued on many Yamahas? There is some confusion which years are all included in the recall.
I posted this prior to the recall but yes thanks I've already got mine - I persuaded the dealer to just let me have the part and I'll change it if and when it starts to mal function again.
I was told by my dealer that it's a modified switch which I found quite interesting as Yamaha UK quite categorically said that the part was not a sub standard part when I was arguing my case for a warranty claim - which they had refused because I was 1 day out of warranty.
I still haven't got over how 1 customer dis-service rep at Yamaha UK can single handedly wipe out 45 years of brand loyalty.
 

Ton Up Rocker

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Norman, OK
I assume you guys are aware of the brake switch recall that was just issued on many Yamahas? There is some confusion which years are all included in the recall.
There is confusion over what years are under the recall. I got the recall letter and it clearly states 2018-2020 Super Tenere. I called Yamaha and they said it included 2016 which mine is.
 

Madhatter

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got a letter from Yamaha yesterday , great , now I have to make an appointment to have the recall done.
 

Abercrombie tenere

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There is confusion over what years are under the recall. I got the recall letter and it clearly states 2018-2020 Super Tenere. I called Yamaha and they said it included 2016 which mine is.
I received the recall letter for my 2014 FJR but haven't seen anything on my 13 Tenere. The earliest Tenere I've seen was a 14 so I may have dodged that bullet.
 

JamesGang

I'm Rick James
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Cape Breton Island
I received my recall last month for an '18 non ES. After 34,000 km this switch wasn't caused me any trouble but the clutch switch was. The plunger wasn't releasing completely which preventing the cruise control from activating. Trouble started after a 12,000 km, 3 week trip that included some ridiculously heavy rain fall. Without disassembly, I lubricated the switch plunger with a quality penetrating fluid and have had no failure since.
Has Yamaha changed the design of the front brake switch or are we just swapping bad for bad?
 

Saint rob

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May 26, 2019
Messages
327
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Northwest UK
I received my recall last month for an '18 non ES. After 34,000 km this switch wasn't caused me any trouble but the clutch switch was. The plunger wasn't releasing completely which preventing the cruise control from activating. Trouble started after a 12,000 km, 3 week trip that included some ridiculously heavy rain fall. Without disassembly, I lubricated the switch plunger with a quality penetrating fluid and have had no failure since.
Has Yamaha changed the design of the front brake switch or are we just swapping bad for bad?
I mentioned in post #6 that my dealer told me that it's a modified part so we shouldn't be swapping bad with bad.
However some muppet at Yamaha UK in the customer dis-service department stated quite categorically before the recall that the original switches weren't sub standard - I might just call him again for the lol's to see if he's now changed his tune
 

AVGeek

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I received the recall letter for my 2014 FJR but haven't seen anything on my 13 Tenere. The earliest Tenere I've seen was a 14 so I may have dodged that bullet.
Since the switch issues are related to the cruise control function, the US 12 and 13 models would not be part of it.
 

Saint rob

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Since the switch issues are related to the cruise control function, the US 12 and 13 models would not be part of it.
The real switch issue is the brake light sticking on which is a safety issue as stupid people behind you may not realise that you are braking because the light doesn't change then you get rear ended. The cruise issue is a just by product that manifests itself because of the brake light.
 

AVGeek

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The real switch issue is the brake light sticking on which is a safety issue as stupid people behind you may not realise that you are braking because the light doesn't change then you get rear ended. The cruise issue is a just by product that manifests itself because of the brake light.
You said it better than I did...the 12 and 13 models have a different switch which is not part of the recall.
 
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