Front brake light switch/cruise issue

[WJBertrand]

Got mine done last week. I was not having any issues with it and everything seems to be working correctly on my ride home. I noticed the new switch has a little red paint dot on it. I don't think the original switch had that. Maybe that's how you can tell if your switch recall has been done? Might be a useful tip for those buying used and not having the service history.

 

[PhilPhilippines]

Got mine done last week. I was not having any issues with it and everything seems to be working correctly on my ride home. I noticed the new switch has a little red paint dot on it. I don't think the original switch had that. Maybe that's how you can tell if your switch recall has been done? Might be a useful tip for those buying used and not having the service history.

Take some nail varnish remover to clarify

 

[Ton Up Rocker]

My was screwed up. About 10% of the time. On highway with cruise control set, brake for a town, leave town, cruise just flashed. To early to say if it is fixed but L believe it will.

 

[2daMax]

Mine is not on a Recall, 2012 model but discovered the switch wasn't working. It appears to be of a different model since it is just a 2 wire instead of the one shown in this thread.

Flush it with lots of contact cleaner which help to a certain extent but still intermittent. Found out that the external blade connectors are somewhat loose and appears to move when the plunger is actuated. Adding a rubber spacer between the 2 connectors (preloading them) fixed it. Can't imagine the danger I was in all this time.

 

[bimota]

Mine is not on a Recall, 2012 model but discovered the switch wasn't working. It appears to be of a different model since it is just a 2 wire instead of the one shown in this thread.

Flush it with lots of contact cleaner which help to a certain extent but still intermittent. Found out that the external blade connectors are somewhat loose and appears to move when the plunger is actuated. Adding a rubber spacer between the 2 connectors (preloading them) fixed it. Can't imagine the danger I was in all this time.

your 2012, doesn,t have cruise control like the one in the picture thats why

rob

 

[LukeDuke]

There is confusion over what years are under the recall. I got the recall letter and it clearly states 2018-2020 Super Tenere. I called Yamaha and they said it included 2016 which mine is.

Does Anyone have reference to the recall number? Or recall details? I would like to bring my 2016 ES model in to my Yamaha dealer and get a new front brake switch put on if I can convince them to do it. Any advice on getting it done at my dealer would be appreciated... Thanks!

 

[gv550]

Go to Yamaha website and check for recalls with your VIN number.

 

[Cycledude]

I received 2 of those recall letters dated January 20 2021, but so far my 2018 hasn’t been back to the dealer for anything and I don’t plan on taking it back unless the problem starts happening to my 2018.

 

[whisperquiet]

I received 2 of those recall letters dated January 20 2021, but so far my 2018 hasn’t been back to the dealer for anything and I don’t plan on taking it back unless the problem starts happening to my 2018.

I received the recall letters for both my 2015 S10 and my 2019 Tracer 900 in 2021 ………the dealer let me do the install and return the recalled harnesses to him for Yamaha. I just checked on the 2021 S10 ES that was purchased new by me in November 2021 and found no active recalls on the Yamaha site. I would have the recall done on your 2018 as it is pretty easy to locate, remove, and install the new brake light light harness on the S10. The Tracer 900 GT harness was a PITA.

 

[Thrasherg]

the Yamaha web site shows 3 items for my Tenere, one of them (the cruise stop switch) I had performed but it list 2 other issues, the front brake switch and a shift shaft cam issue, but unless either of those issues appear, I wont be taking the bike into the dealer to have them do it. The brake switch doesn’t bother me at all (I can fix or change it myself), the shift cam shaft says that a manufacturing defect can cause the shaft to crack and fail (so I assume I would be stuck in whatever gear the motorcycle was in when it failed) which would be a big inconvenience, but as the gearbox has worked perfectly from new, I really don‘t want anyone pulling it apart to replace something that might never fail! As there seems a bigger chance they would bugger something up which until now has worked perfectly.

Gary

 

[WJBertrand]

Transmission failures can be dangerous if they result in a locked rear wheel. You can’t release it by pulling in the clutch. Don’t know if the shift shaft failure can result in that or not, but the word crack is concerning.

 

[outdoor]

I decided to have a go at repairing my sticking front brake light switch which was causing a cruise malfunction and causing the brake light to stay on. It's an easy enough job and definitely worth having a go before parting with £140 odd for a new one - even though my bike was out of warranty by 1 day when Yamaha extended the warranty by 3 months on all motorcycles in the UK due to Covid.
You don't need to disconnect the switch before removal, but I would advise not turning the ignition on until you've completed the job, just undo the 1 screw shown below
View attachment 73289
Once removed, the switch is easy to pull downwards. When you've gained access to it you need to cut the cable tie to free the cable - be careful not to nick the cable or the outer sheath
With the cable tie removed you will notice the 4 legs of the top cover to the switch assembly, the fiddliest bit of the job is gently pulling those legs back so that you can remove the top and slide it along the cable. I did them 2 at a time - first one side then the other to release them, sliding it back is the easy bit. The photo below shows what I mean and also shows the 4 legs.
View attachment 73291
After lifting off the rubber block - dont lose it, you will be able to pull out both of the switches. Looking at the assembly as it's shown in the photo, the right hand switch is your brake light switch and the left one is the cruise switch. It is the brake lamp switch that causes the cruise issues, I flushed it out 2 or 3 times with switch/contact cleaner whilst repeatedly working the switch before letting it dry for 10 minutes. You could do both switches but I decided that since there didn't appear to be a problem with the other one I'd leave it alone - if it aint broke dont fix it.
I then gave each switch a liberal coating of dielectric grease before re-inserting them back into the assembly, replacing the rubber block (when I eventually figured out how to orientate it!) at least you won't have that problem with the photo above and then slipping the cover back down clipping it back into place as shown below
View attachment 73292
And then threaded a new cable tie re-secure the cable
View attachment 73293
I then cut the tail off the cable tie and refitted back to the bike, obviously you need to ease back the brake lever slightly to get it back in there but it slips in really easily, don't forget to tighten the srew properly and it might be a good idea to put some thread lock on to stop it vibrating out in the future.

You could of course test it before replacing it, just remember that when it's not fitted to the bike the brake light will be illuminated until you press the plunger to turn it off. With the plunger held down turn the ignition switch on, activate your cruise button and voi la - no flashing cruise light and you've saved £140 odd

I decided to have a go at repairing my sticking front brake light switch which was causing a cruise malfunction and causing the brake light to stay on. It's an easy enough job and definitely worth having a go before parting with £140 odd for a new one - even though my bike was out of warranty by 1 day when Yamaha extended the warranty by 3 months on all motorcycles in the UK due to Covid.
You don't need to disconnect the switch before removal, but I would advise not turning the ignition on until you've completed the job, just undo the 1 screw shown below
View attachment 73289
Once removed, the switch is easy to pull downwards. When you've gained access to it you need to cut the cable tie to free the cable - be careful not to nick the cable or the outer sheath
With the cable tie removed you will notice the 4 legs of the top cover to the switch assembly, the fiddliest bit of the job is gently pulling those legs back so that you can remove the top and slide it along the cable. I did them 2 at a time - first one side then the other to release them, sliding it back is the easy bit. The photo below shows what I mean and also shows the 4 legs.
View attachment 73291
After lifting off the rubber block - dont lose it, you will be able to pull out both of the switches. Looking at the assembly as it's shown in the photo, the right hand switch is your brake light switch and the left one is the cruise switch. It is the brake lamp switch that causes the cruise issues, I flushed it out 2 or 3 times with switch/contact cleaner whilst repeatedly working the switch before letting it dry for 10 minutes. You could do both switches but I decided that since there didn't appear to be a problem with the other one I'd leave it alone - if it aint broke dont fix it.
I then gave each switch a liberal coating of dielectric grease before re-inserting them back into the assembly, replacing the rubber block (when I eventually figured out how to orientate it!) at least you won't have that problem with the photo above and then slipping the cover back down clipping it back into place as shown below
View attachment 73292
And then threaded a new cable tie re-secure the cable
View attachment 73293
I then cut the tail off the cable tie and refitted back to the bike, obviously you need to ease back the brake lever slightly to get it back in there but it slips in really easily, don't forget to tighten the srew properly and it might be a good idea to put some thread lock on to stop it vibrating out in the future.

You could of course test it before replacing it, just remember that when it's not fitted to the bike the brake light will be illuminated until you press the plunger to turn it off. With the plunger held down turn the ignition switch on, activate your cruise button and voi la - no flashing cruise light and you've saved £140 odd

Is that the old switch? Mine looks a bit diff I got the recall done

 

[outdoor]

I went through the onboard diagnostics step 82 is on and stays on ON regardless when I pull front brake push rear brake pull clutch lever push throttle back

Step 83 works for all when off I pull each and it goes to ON

So what does that mean? What is causing step82 issue?