Front Brake / Brake Light

scott123007

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
1,462
Location
Jupiter, Florida
I've been screwing around with my front brake light switch all morning. I can't believe this is the second one to fail. Anyway, I found the culprit but could not fix it. If you take the switch apart, there are two micro switches inside it. The micro switch that controls brake light function was only working intermittently. Unfortunately, I could not disassemble the micro switch itself to see what was wrong. I eventually got it to work with relative consistancy by pressing and releasing the little button on it, and by tapping it with a screw driver head. With it still apart, I turned the key on and turned the CC on, and it stayed on. If I pressed the button on the non brake light micro switch, I could press and release that one all I wanted, and it had no effect on the CC light. If I pressed and released the brake light micro switch, the CC light would start blinking. If I held in the non brake light micro switch and then pressed the brake light micro switch, it would operate as it should.

I'm just guessing here, but I think the first micro switch gets depressed before the brake light micro switch to tell the ECU to disengage the CC, but if that order gets disrupted then the CC disarms itself altogether.

So with that, I got the bright idea to make the brake light micro switch non functional because I didn't want to put it all back together, just to have it act up again in a week or so. My reasoning is that even if the CC will not disengage now by using the front brake, I still have the clutch, rear brake, and throttle, to disable the CC and I just have to use a little rear brake whenever I use my brakes for my brake light to operate, while slowing down. I'm not too worried about getting hit while stopped if my brake light isn't on, if I don't feel like pressing my rear brake lever while stopped. I think if someone is so inattentive that they are going to hit me from behind, a silly little brake light is not going to be my saving grace, lol.

I played around with the brake light micro switch one last time to make sure the brake light was off and then broke the little button off the micro switch so that when I pull in the front brake lever nothing happens. The brake light does not come on, and the cruise does not shut off. It works like a charm, and now I have my cruise back again.
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
I've been screwing around with my front brake light switch all morning. I can't believe this is the second one to fail. Anyway, I found the culprit but could not fix it. If you take the switch apart, there are two micro switches inside it. The micro switch that controls brake light function was only working intermittently. Unfortunately, I could not disassemble the micro switch itself to see what was wrong. I eventually got it to work with relative consistancy by pressing and releasing the little button on it, and by tapping it with a screw driver head. With it still apart, I turned the key on and turned the CC on, and it stayed on. If I pressed the button on the non brake light micro switch, I could press and release that one all I wanted, and it had no effect on the CC light. If I pressed and released the brake light micro switch, the CC light would start blinking. If I held in the non brake light micro switch and then pressed the brake light micro switch, it would operate as it should.

I'm just guessing here, but I think the first micro switch gets depressed before the brake light micro switch to tell the ECU to disengage the CC, but if that order gets disrupted then the CC disarms itself altogether.

So with that, I got the bright idea to make the brake light micro switch non functional because I didn't want to put it all back together, just to have it act up again in a week or so. My reasoning is that even if the CC will not disengage now by using the front brake, I still have the clutch, rear brake, and throttle, to disable the CC and I just have to use a little rear brake whenever I use my brakes for my brake light to operate, while slowing down. I'm not too worried about getting hit while stopped if my brake light isn't on, if I don't feel like pressing my rear brake lever while stopped. I think if someone is so inattentive that they are going to hit me from behind, a silly little brake light is not going to be my saving grace, lol.

I played around with the brake light micro switch one last time to make sure the brake light was off and then broke the little button off the micro switch so that when I pull in the front brake lever nothing happens. The brake light does not come on, and the cruise does not shut off. It works like a charm, and now I have my cruise back again.
Those micro switches can be real finicky sometimes. Seeing that you live in a coastal community, I would suggest to just replace the switch and start using WD 40. Salt air is very hard on electrical components.

The switch is vey cheap under 30 bucks. PN 4HM-83980-00-00
 

scott123007

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
1,462
Location
Jupiter, Florida
@ Nikolajsen---I assume you are being sarcastic. I was riding motorcycles for many years before they even had front brake light switches.:D

@ballisticexchris--Thanks for that heads-up but the switch for the '14 and up is at least $70. I just bought one less than 6 months ago, and it has failed already.
I know a little about salt too. I'm 66, was born in the USVI, and have lived in FL. ever since. I have been involved with motorcycles in one form or another (racing, fixing, or selling) since I was 13. My original plan was to disassemble the switch altogether and see what exactly failed, and how, but that little micro switch looks to be a sealed unit, and was clean as a whistle .:)
 
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ballisticexchris

Guest
@ Nikolajsen---I assume you are being sarcastic. I was riding motorcycles for many years before they even had front brake light switches.:D

@ballisticexchris--Thanks for that heads-up but the switch for the '14 and up is at least $70. I just bought one less than 6 months ago, and it has failed already.
I know a little about salt too. I'm 66, was born in the USVI, and have lived in FL. ever since. I have been involved with motorcycles in one form or another (racing, fixing, or selling) since I was 13. My original plan was to disassemble the switch altogether and see what exactly failed, and how, but that little micro switch looks to be a sealed unit, and was clean as a whistle .:)
No not sarcastic at all. Just my personal experience trying to help out a fellow forum member.
 

HuntWhenever

Motorbike Commuter
Joined
Aug 4, 2017
Messages
18
Location
SW Ohio
@TooTall and HuntWhenever - Please specify what year your bikes are. ...
Sorry for the long delay. My Tenere was a 2017. I traded it for a Harley-Davidson Sport Glide just before Thanksgiving. For what it's worth...the Sport Glide's front brake switch works perfectly ;).

As others have already remarked on, the issue would be either the switch actuator being too long (therefor traveling too far before actuating the microswitches), or the microswitches themselves are not positioned correctly in the switch housing (maybe bad housing molding or poor assembly). I was going to try to shorten my actuator, but the price of a new switch deterred me from fooling around with it. Plus, if I made the switch actuator too short, then the cruise control would shut off when hitting a bump on the interstate ( I used my cruise control everyday during my commute ), and with the Tenere's behemoth engine braking, an unplanned cruise control shutdown would be quite unsettling.
 

Cycledude

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2016
Messages
3,998
Location
Rib lake wi
Wow $70 for that little switch ? That’s crazy ! Since it’s only 6 months old Maybe they would replace it under warranty .
 

msch

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
125
Location
Santiago, Chile
I got the same problem with the microswitch. The stop light turns on only if I pull hard the front brake lever.
I bought a new Microswitch which came with a long cable and a white plug.
My question is: should you only take the electrical parts cover out tho change the microswitch and plug the cable somewhere there, or the last tank must also be raised.
Your help clarifying this will help me to do the necessary work.
Thanks in advance.
 

msch

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2013
Messages
125
Location
Santiago, Chile
I tried with a new microswitch and the problem was the same.
Founded which was the problem. I changed to a foldable lever. I filed slightly where the lever touch the microswitch (see red circle in picture). Problem solved. Criuse Control switch and brake switch ( stop light) operates properly.
Perhaps this is the solution for people that brake lights turns on1556941677534.jpeg1556941717227.jpeg only when they push hard the lever.
1556941677534.jpeg
1556941717227.jpeg
 

EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
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Correction of the typo. Should I raise the GAS tank also?.
If I remember correctly, you will need to lift up the gas tank and remove the right side panels from the bike. Both the quick release and the upper panel above that. The harness wire runs down/across and to a 'boot' with other connectors. Routing it per the factory path is not difficult, but takes a little time to fish it around.
 
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