Fork (was suspected brake piston) leaking

spam16v

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Aug 11, 2014
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Factory Yamaha fork seals are junk. Switch to SKF green seals and be done with it. It’s a known issue.
 

PolInc92

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Jul 28, 2018
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Cary, Il
Be great to hear whether the seal tool works. I picked one up also but didnt need to use it because YES covered my seals under warranty.
So I pulled the dust cover off and ran the Seal Master through it. Pulled out a bunch of gunk and the seal set immediately and stopped leaking. Cleaned it out as best I can and put the dust cover back.

The fluid is obviously low because I'm able to move the right side up and down easily, but not the left. The oil looks dark, so I'm going to be changing it out anyway. Does anyone know a good write up? First time ever changing fork oil on the Tenere (ok, fine, first time on any bike.) Does a general YT video for any bike work fine?

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
 

dmulk

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Jul 21, 2016
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San Diego, Ca
So I pulled the dust cover off and ran the Seal Master through it. Pulled out a bunch of gunk and the seal set immediately and stopped leaking. Cleaned it out as best I can and put the dust cover back.

The fluid is obviously low because I'm able to move the right side up and down easily, but not the left. The oil looks dark, so I'm going to be changing it out anyway. Does anyone know a good write up? First time ever changing fork oil on the Tenere (ok, fine, first time on any bike.) Does a general YT video for any bike work fine?

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

This is one of the best USD fork seal replavement videos I've seen. Delboy is awesome. I know you arent replacing the seals but this will show you what to do when the time comes. He covers fluid replacement too.

 

PolInc92

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This is one of the best USD fork seal replavement videos I've seen. Delboy is awesome. I know you arent replacing the seals but this will show you what to do when the time comes. He covers fluid replacement too.

Subbed and added to my list of repair lists. Awesome. If the seal starts leaking again, I might have to watch that video sooner than I want to.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
 

dmulk

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Cool. Yeah i like his practical approach. You can fast forward to the end of the video where he covers replacing the fork fluid and how to measure it correctly.
 

regder

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Sep 10, 2017
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Toronno
My Sealmate has saved me from buying three fork seals on three separate bikes. I was super skeptical, but it works. The only fork seal I have ever replaced was the one on my FZ1, and that was before I bought a Sealmate
 

PolInc92

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Jul 28, 2018
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So later today, I'm going to replace the fluid. I was looking around for what to replace it with and can't find a solid answer. I'm about 260 lbs, so I'm not sure which weight to use for the oil. Some people are saying 7W ATF while others say stick to Yamaha 5W. What do you guys think?

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Nikolajsen

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The weight have nothing to do with the oil viscotity. The viscotity have influence on the rebound.
(at least if we are talking about the "normal" oil for front forks. between 5w and 15w)
So I think you should stick to Yamaha standard. (I doubt you can feel differense between 5w and 7w...in normal S10 use)
 
Last edited:

jrusell

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Aug 23, 2017
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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
I would use 5 wt.
In the past I have typically chosen 7wt or 10 wt in forks that have a spec of 5 wt. Mainly because I have found most forks to have insufficient damping and the 7 or 10 has helped immensely.
The Tenere is the only bike I have found that this caused the forks to become harsh from running a slightly heavier wt oil. I ran Maxima 7wt last year and will be going back to 5wt this winter when I get around to doing an oil change. May even try a 2.5/3 wt if I can find some locally.

I usually use maxima blue label fork oils, but any good quality fork oil will serve you well. Belray, motul, maxima green label, etc all good oils.
 

jrusell

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Aug 23, 2017
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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
I just watched the video linked above and wanted to make a couple of comments.
Although the fork he worked on is similar to ours there are a few very important differences.

You will not be able to take the cap off like he did in his vid. You will need a fork spring compressor to remove the cap. That fork has much less installed preload on the spring. Ours has at least double that amount of preload and the damper rod bolt is hidden under a plastic spacer. Get a proper spring compressor. There are many around for little money and will make the job much easier.

Even if you are able to get it off without a spring compressor the most important part is reinstallation of the spring. The damper rod locknut distance must be set to a specific measurement. If I remember correctly almost every Yamaha for the past 20 years has been between 10-12mm. It is important that this is correct so that you get the full range of rebound adjustment.

It is also very possible, if not likely that you will damage your rebound needle and adjuster if you put it back together like he does. A good practice is to adjust your rebound out fully before you take them apart. (Counter clockwise all the way). This will give another level of safety if you get the measurement incorrect.
 
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