Fork Service Question

[RCinNC]

I have a 2014 S10 with almost 56,000 miles. It's time for my second fork service. I've done it before, so the removal/disassembly isn't a big deal. I'm wondering how many of you would preemptively replace the fork seals if you were doing the same job. Nothing's leaking at the moment.

If you would replace them, are parts 7 and 9 in the only wear items I'd need to buy?

 

[SkunkWorks]

If you are servicing the forks................replace the seals (unless you are planning to just drain the old fluid and put fresh in)

The wear-parts you should replace are 4, 5, 7, and 9. (2 of each)

 

[RCinNC]

Thanks Skunkworks. Last time I disassembled the forks and pumped all the old oil out of them, and let them drain upside down overnight. That was my plan this time, but I read on one of the threads where a member recommended replacing the fork seals, so I figured I'd check with some other members and see if they felt this was a good plan.

So the replaceable items are:

4) Front fork piston
5) Metal Slide 1
7) Oil Seal
9) Dust Seal

Correct?

 

[RCinNC]

Oh, and should I decide to go non-OEM, is there an aftermarket seal kit anyone would recommend?

 

[blitz11]

Oh, and should I decide to go non-OEM, is there an aftermarket seal kit anyone would recommend?

I looked for SKF kits for this bike, but had no luck. (I was shopping last night.) I saw Pivot Works kits, but my experience with PV with my dirt bike was bad, so now i avoid them.


My fork was leaking, so I went with OEM parts. i noticed on RMATV that the dust seal and the oil seal have new part numbers. My seals lasted less than 25K, which was disappointing. (I did seals and bushings when i revalved/re-sprung the front suspension with less than 1K miles on the bike.) I used OEM bushings and seals then.

Maybe the redesign was done to improve service life. I hope so as 25K miles/5 years seems a bit low (or my expectations are too high.) Hard to say.

 

[RCinNC]

I'm back and forth about replacing the seals. I hate to do it if nothing is leaking, but I know it's a wear item. My OEM seals seem pretty hardy; five years and 56,000 miles.

 

[steve68steve]

Fork seals are a known weakness on our bikes. Mine were gone at less than 20k miles. It wore fork socks for years after that and I'm still on set number 2.

If I was going to tear them apart, I'd for sure get new seals. They're pretty cheap, there's no reason not to.

 

[RonH]

Leave things alone that are not broken. I learned this many years ago, and as more years have passed I still believe in this. For sure though if you do replace seals, only use factory seals, but don't replace anything until leaks happen in my opinion.

 

[SkunkWorks]

I would go with OEM parts.
If the forks are off the bike, and you already have them apart to dump the fluid out, you already have most of the work done!
Why anyone would not replace the seals at this point is beyond me?
With your mileage on them, I would not put them back on the bike without seals AND bushings.

But it’s your money and your labor..............

 

[RonH]

Best option on fork seals that is most logical to me after 500,000 miles is replace seals when they leak only, and the bushings only when worn. In the past replaced fork oil every so often and of course came out black and looked old.. Now, if you notice, there is no factory recommended interval to ever replace fork oil. I wait til leaks, then replace oil, seals, and bushings if worn only. I will replace oil when/if seals leak, replace seals with factory parts, look at the bushings, replace if needed, if not put the old ones back in for another 60,000 miles or whatever. Too many riders go ape shit on stuff that causes more issues than helps in my opinion.

 

[ballisticexchris]

I have had very good luck with the SKF fork seals over the years. You are looking for part # SKF KITB-43K. This is the one that fits the KYB 43mm fork. Another option are the Race Tech fork seals part# FKOS 43 P. I have also had very good luck with those as well. Both those brands are very low stiction.

All Balls, Pivot Works, and a few other brands are hit and miss in quality.

I suggest to replace all the wear items while you are doing it. I lately over the last 10 years or so been taking my suspensions to the shop. They are just too darn messy to work on any more. I have found that it's much more cost effective to have it done.

 

[SilverBullet]

Fork seals are a known weakness on our bikes. Mine were gone at less than 20k miles...

Known weakness? I don't think so and no more than any other bike.

My original seals developed a couple leaks that cleaned up and stopped. Finally replaced them at 70k miles with OEM parts and started using Shock Sox. Now 63k miles later not a single dribble yet.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

 

[blitz11]

I have had very good luck with the SKF fork seals over the years. You are looking for part # SKF KITB-43K. This is the one that fits the KYB 43mm fork. Another option are the Race Tech fork seals part# FKOS 43 P. I have also had very good luck with those as well. Both those brands are very low stiction.

All Balls, Pivot Works, and a few other brands are hit and miss in quality.

I suggest to replace all the wear items while you are doing it. I lately over the last 10 years or so been taking my suspensions to the shop. They are just too darn messy to work on any more. I have found that it's much more cost effective to have it done.

Have you used the SKF KITB-43K? I was looking on the net, and found conflicting information about whether those would work on the super 10 (but I hear what you're saying about KYB 43 mm usd forks should take the same seals/wipers.) If you've used that successfully, can you please let us know? That would be great info.

Thanks.

 

[BWC]

Just recently installed the SKF seals in my 13. Have about 1000 km on them without issue. They are a little more money than OEM so it will be interesting if the hold out any better. I’ve found most of the time seal leakage is from dirt or particles of the failed Teflon? coating on the metal slides contaminating the oil seals and causing leaking as opposed to a worn or damaged seal. And seal leakage on an inverted fork system isn’t just a Yamaha thing.
A couple of good cleanings with a seal mate usually stops the leaking from dirt for the most part.
Extra new set is for a friends bike we are doing in the near future.

 

[blitz11]

Just recently installed the SKF seals in my 13. Have about 1000 km on them without issue. They are a little more money than OEM so it will be interesting if the hold out any better. I’ve found most of the time seal leakage is from dirt or particles of the failed Teflon? coating on the metal slides contaminating the oil seals and causing leaking as opposed to a worn or damaged seal. And seal leakage on an inverted fork system isn’t just a Yamaha thing.
A couple of good cleanings with a seal mate usually stops the leaking from dirt for the most part.View attachment 54277
Extra new set is for a friends bike we are doing in the near future.

Good to know! Thanks.

 

[ballisticexchris]

Just recently installed the SKF seals in my 13. Have about 1000 km on them without issue. They are a little more money than OEM so it will be interesting if the hold out any better. I’ve found most of the time seal leakage is from dirt or particles of the failed Teflon? coating on the metal slides contaminating the oil seals and causing leaking as opposed to a worn or damaged seal. And seal leakage on an inverted fork system isn’t just a Yamaha thing.
A couple of good cleanings with a seal mate usually stops the leaking from dirt for the most part.Extra new set is for a friends bike we are doing in the near future.

Have you used the SKF KITB-43K? I was looking on the net, and found conflicting information about whether those would work on the super 10 (but I hear what you're saying about KYB 43 mm usd forks should take the same seals/wipers.) If you've used that successfully, can you please let us know? That would be great info.

Thanks.

I only have 3000 miles on my ST. I have been collecting part numbers as I go along. Looks like I was one letter off. KITG-43K are the correct ones. Thanks BWC.

 

[steve68steve]

Known weakness? I don't think so and no more than any other bike.

My original seals developed a couple leaks that cleaned up and stopped. Finally replaced them at 70k miles with OEM parts and started using Shock Sox. Now 63k miles later not a single dribble yet.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

I remember reading a lot about it when mine started. Maybe I'm remembering wrong, or maybe it's just a case of it seeming like an epidemic when it happens to YOU. I never had a problem with fork seals on any other bike in the past 10 years.

https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/fork-seal-failure-report-anyone-else.23477/

 

[jrusell]

I only have 3000 miles on my ST. I have been collecting part numbers as I go along. Looks like I was one letter off. KITG-43K are the correct ones. Thanks BWC.

KITG-43K or KITB-43K should both work with no issue. The G or K refer to the color of the seals. (Kit Green or kit black) K on the end indicates they are for Kayaba forks.

Here is a link. If you follow the links you can get the dimensions of the seals and wipers etc.

http://moto.innteck.info

Personally if you have no leaks and the tubes show no signs of bushing wear I would have no issue just doing a dump and fill and leave the seals alone. I do mine much more often, but everyone has there own idea what is right for them.
I have done mine a few times and I have a really good feel for how much oil I need. and how long I need to hang them to get everything out.
Worst case scenario they start to leak and you need to do them again and are out just $10 worth of fork oil.

If I have to replace seals I would do the bushings as well for sure.

 

[AdvToorer]

Known weakness? I don't think so and no more than any other bike.

My original seals developed a couple leaks that cleaned up and stopped. Finally replaced them at 70k miles with OEM parts and started using Shock Sox. Now 63k miles later not a single dribble yet.

I'm on my 2nd set, getting about 15k between leaks. Once one starts leaking I replace both. I've tried the seal-saver trick every time but never helped. I now consider them a consumable item like tires or oil.
Would I per-emptively change seals at 50k? Hell yeah! But for me it's more like change the fluid at next fork seal replacement.

 

[spam16v]

Yamaha seals are harder than sin and leak. Only thing worse are All-Balls junk. SKF all the way.