Fork oil change tools

[Random_Rockfish]

So 24mm is the size of the cap nut?

If so, I'm going to just buy a plastic one and see how it goes.

 

[greg the pole]

not 100% sure.
I'd check, but I sold the bike ::025::

 

[RCinNC]

Yes, it's 24mm.

 

[Random_Rockfish]

Yes, it's 24mm.

Thanks!

 

[Random_Rockfish]

I received my plastic 24mm wrench from Japan.
It worked very nicely - you can't even tell the fork caps were touched.

Anyway, I pulled the forks and suspended them upside down for 48 hours with the caps loosened - I also pumped them a couple times over the time period.
I was able to get exactly 16 ounces out of each fork (0.4 ounces less than what the repair manual says is a complete change). I replaced it with Yamaha 01 fork oil and all went well.

The bike only has 7k on it but it's four years old so I thought it would be a good idea to freshen the fork oil which was a tad gray tinted compared to the new oil.

I may make this an annual routine and maybe I can avoid a complete tear down.

 

[Next]

You can also take a paper towel, and place it on the cap, as a barrier. I scratched one for cap a bit with just a single layer of paper towel, but then doubled up the paper towel on the second one and had no issues. I think I've just had dual sport bikes for too long and don't care too much about a smudge or two in some aluminum that few other will ever see. That said, I treated my Triumph Speed Triple and Moto Guzzi like they were made of glass

 

[Random_Rockfish]

You can also take a paper towel, and place it on the cap, as a barrier. I scratched one for cap a bit with just a single layer of paper towel, but then doubled up the paper towel on the second one and had no issues. I think I've just had dual sport bikes for too long and don't care too much about a smudge or two in some aluminum that few other will ever see. That said, I treated my Triumph Speed Triple and Moto Guzzi like they were made of glass

I treated my BMW GS like it was made of glass.

I treat my Super T like it was made of crystal!

 

[Cycledude]

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/?filters[category]=tools&q=Fork+cap+wrench+tool

Found it here awhile back while rounding up parts for my 81 Honda 900-F.
Most 6 point sockets will work but if you look at the inside edge of them they are usually rounded and if that surface was ground or turned flat it sit would down better on the the rather shallow alluminum fork cap nut.

Thanks for actually posting the link ! Ordered one a few minutes ago, shipping is almost 2 times what the wrench cost. I sure don’t understand why Yamaha made those nuts of such soft aluminum, they should have used steel.

 

[TomZ]

In changing the fork oil on my 2015 ST with electronic suspension, I didn't take long to realize that the tools required were different from the ones that work on non-ES, gen. 1 bikes. The top nut, for example, requires a 46-mm wrench. Harbor Freight had just the right tool, an 18" crescent wrench. (I would attach a photo, but ya know -a crescent wrench is pretty common). I padded the jaws with adhesive-backed Velcro loop tape and easily loosened the top cap without damaging the aluminum nut. The fork compression tool is different too because the plastic spacer in the fork is different. Someone in Denmark sells an appropriate compression tool like the one shown in the service manual, but price and delivery were a consideration, so a friend and I built one with an appropriate-sized steel washer welded to scrap metal. It's too ugly to show a picture, but it worked, cost next to nothing and I did not have to wait for shipping. Later I made a better one similar to the one in the service manual from 1/4" aluminum sheet using another friend's end mill. Nothing fancy.

Anyway, anyone contemplating rebuilding the forks or changing the fork oil on an ES bike should know that the job requires different tools than the older non-ES bikes. And you don't need a special plastic wrench from Japan.

By the way, the service manual says to remove the handlebar, but that was not necessary with bar risers.

 

[2daMax]

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/how-to-change-fork-oil-mc-garage-tech-tips#page-3

Says to use paper towel in the Socket tool. Dun know if it works.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

I used a FYF Top Cap Socket.
See attached picture 1 and picture 2 below.
This is good option for a tool to use on the cap bolt that does not require removing the handlebars. However, you do need to use a wobble extension with it to clear the handle bars.

1. FYF Suspension Top Cap Socket, 6 Point 3/8 Drive, 24 mm Amazon has it for $16.99 + $4.99 shipping
   This socket has all the features needed to prevent rounding off the cap bolt (six point socket, corners rounded, and a small internal chamfer).
   The size is also right, 1 1/8” tall. I think a socket any taller would not work. It is short enough to clear the handlebars when you put it on and are still be able take it off after you loosen the bolt.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FCK567/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&th=1&psc=1
   
   
2. 3/8 drive wobble extension Amazon has - Titan Tools 16105 Wobble Extension Set - 3 Piece for $9.52
   You just need the 3/8 drive wobble extension to use with the 3/8 drive FYF socket.
   The set has a 1/4, 3/8, and a ½” drive extension. These wobble extensions can also be pushed in and lock into the straight position.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M8OS/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
   According to the Product Description for this set, all three extensions are 2”. In the picture it looks like they are shorter than what I actually received. The extensions in the set I received, were all 3” long, same as my regular Craftsman extensions.

I used some electrical tape as suggested; cut off a strip about 3 ¼” long and that was enough to put one wrap around the sides of the bolt. After I changed seals, bushings and tightened the bolt there was some black residue from the tape so I polished it off with a Q-tip. No damage at all to the cap bolt.
Thanks to Greg , he has (had, since he no longer has the bike) a buggered up cap bolt and I don’t. ::003::


Other things that did not work so well:
See attached picture 3 and picture 4 below.
I tried a regular 3/8 extension but the axis of the bolt is just in front of the handlebar, too close for a 3/8 extension.
I tried a ¼” extension, using a 3/8” to 1/4“ adapter and I got it on ok but I think the adapter would hit the handlebar when the bolt was loosened.

 

[BaldKnob]

Seals ordered along with the driver and I'll be reading Greg's drunken summary later as my right-side fork has a nasty leak. Tried the SealSaver several times but still leaking. I had Cogent rebuild them (using SKF seals) late last year so the bushings should be in good shape.

 

[jmz]

I just changed my springs and used the 24 mm wrench that came in a V-Strom tool kit. Maybe I'm lucky but I didn't have any problems . I did put a wrap of electrical tape on them to start with.

 

[Karl]

In changing the fork oil on my 2015 ST with electronic suspension, I didn't take long to realize that the tools required were different from the ones that work on non-ES, gen. 1 bikes. The top nut, for example, requires a 46-mm wrench. Harbor Freight had just the right tool, an 18" crescent wrench. (I would attach a photo, but ya know -a crescent wrench is pretty common). I padded the jaws with adhesive-backed Velcro loop tape and easily loosened the top cap without damaging the aluminum nut. The fork compression tool is different too because the plastic spacer in the fork is different. Someone in Denmark sells an appropriate compression tool like the one shown in the service manual, but price and delivery were a consideration, so a friend and I built one with an appropriate-sized steel washer welded to scrap metal. It's too ugly to show a picture, but it worked, cost next to nothing and I did not have to wait for shipping. Later I made a better one similar to the one in the service manual from 1/4" aluminum sheet using another friend's end mill. Nothing fancy.

Anyway, anyone contemplating rebuilding the forks or changing the fork oil on an ES bike should know that the job requires different tools than the older non-ES bikes. And you don't need a special plastic wrench from Japan.

By the way, the service manual says to remove the handlebar, but that was not necessary with bar risers.

Hi mate, I measured my ES last night and the cap measures just shy of 44mm across the flats with a vernier caliper. Can you confirm 46mm or can someone else measure. I almost bought a 46mm wrench before I checked it.

 

[TomZ]

Measurement of the larger hex nut with vernier caliper gave 42.76 mm. Guess it shrank since previous measurement (no comment). The smaller hex nut measured 32.8 mm. Attached photos show the situation.
The fork caps on the ES model have two hex surfaces. The upper, smaller one could fit a closed wrench, but is shallow. The larger, lower one is deeper, but only takes an open wrench (blocked at yellow arrow on photo).

Another photo shows the fork assembly with the cap unscrewed and the spring extended. The white plastic spacer where the spring compression tool fits is different from the one with holes on the non-ES bikes. It takes a different tool.

 

[Karl]

Thanks for that Tom, I will re-measure both of mine tonight when I get home.

I am pretty sure my larger hex measures just under 44mm which is curious. Mine is 2014 ES, not that this should make a difference.

I am not inclined to use the top hex, the wall thickness of the aluminium is very thin on that one.

K

 

[TomZ]

Well, my mistake again. Mine actually measured close to 43.8 mm -just mistyped it.

Agreed that the lower hex is the better one to use. The cap is easily released if you raise the front of the bike just enough to relax the fork spring tension.
Whatever wrench you use, I recommend padding the jaws with something (like the velcro loop tape I used) to protect the aluminum hex nut.

Wonder if the right tool could be made from tough plastic using a 3-D printer.

 

[Karl]

That makes me feel better, measured 43.9 on both fork caps last night.

K