Flash Tune, Anyone care to share knowledge of the software? Maps?

[Mus1969stang]

The arrow header PCV map when imported created the "eye" that leaned the red rich area. I believe the gen 2 maps are better tuned than the gen 1 in stock conditions.

You also have access to the MAP vs RPM fuel maps. They come into play in low load cruise conditions. There is a TPS VS MAP bias map (not shown) that blends the low load MAP and high load TPS fuel maps. I managed to rid my bike of the lean surge by looking at where the MAP fuel map was mostly used and then I fattened up the MAP fuel map in that area. I am actually using the gen 2 MAP vs RPM modified to my taste on my gen 1 bike.


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[Mus1969stang]

Here are the real bread and butter maps of the bikes. T and S mode throttle maps. This is how you make the bike dull or super responsive. On drive by wire bikes the throttle actually gives a voltage based on throttle position. Hence the throttle position sensor. These maps allow you to decide how far the throttle valves open in relation to the actual throttle position. You can fine tune the "feel" of the bike and even limit power based on RPM and TPS.

Below are the stock T and S mode maps. You will notice the stock restricted maps limit throttle (especially in T mode) to limit power. The values in the map tell you how far the throttle valve is actually going to open. 100 is full open

And here are the unrestricted maps Flashtune give you. The sport mode here is an actual 1:1 map. No matter the RPM, the throttle makes the throttle blades open the same. Much more like a throttle cable controlled bike. On a cable controlled bike the throttle cam dictates the relationship between throttle and blade.

Hope this helps explain some of the fundamentals. Got to go. At my kids swim meet!

I'll post more of what I'm playing with later.


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[Mus1969stang]

By the way. Each gear has its own map. I chose these to show the 1-3rd gear restriction differences. The gen 2 maps are more aggressive to make you think you have more power. Yamaha and their tricks! Lol


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[tubebender]

Mus1969stang, thanks for taking the time to post your work.

I've played with the software a bit, but never taken the time to really understand what's going on.
I think you can upload your maps to the FTECU.com sight. I've looked at some others 3rd party maps.

 

[hobdayd]

Mus1969stang, very much appreciate your work and your postings. Like others I suspect, I have followed but not commented. I may go down this path with my 2016 once out of warranty. For now, I love S mode and hate T mode...so for me, a new silencer for now to make it sound "better and like a big twin" and then modified T mode.

Keep up the great posts.

Don

 

[cavenger]

Cavenger, I bought the kit for $380 at revzilla. Free shipping and you earn points towards the next purchase. Since I bought the arrow headers from them last year I only paid a total of $350 after my points were deducted.


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Ah, I see. You have the 2012. I have the 2014. The 2014 bench kit is $450. Revzilla doesn't have the non-bench version for the 2014.

 

[Mus1969stang]

Thanks tubebender, hobdayed, cavenger. I've been having fun with this. I made a super strong hybrid gen2/ gen 1 fuel map. Very strong, but some pinging around 3 k rpm and 40% throttle. Then I decided to try me first idea. Use the gen 2 TOS/MAP/IGNITION map on my gen 1. After making the fuel maps match the area I tuned for my arrow headers, this new gen two map worked great. Not as much grunt down low, but great top and mid power. Then I went back and played it the timing and bam! A great tune. I still need to tweet the sport ignition timing, but the Tmode is better modulated and harder hitting than the stock S mode. No comparison really. S mode hits hard but isn't such a surprise to me. I'll try to put it on the Flashtune site as Tubebender mentioned.
I've got to say I've really had fun playing with the program. I was amazed by putting the gen 2 maps on my gen 1 ECU. The timing was retarded a lot, but it really smoothed the whole rpm band out. I then advanced the timing to give me the punch I was used to. Very satisfying. I'll write more later. Family has been fighting for my little bit of free time.

 

[Mus1969stang]

By the way, other than different ECUs, the gen 1 and gen two bikes are very similsr. Haven't played with the decel maps. They differ a lot between the two. Don't add decel to the first gear low rpm or it will speed up idle until you brake. Just a FYI note. One person said the notice the bike idled around 11-12 mph vs 8-9. That's due to the 1000rpm block being bumped from 100(no decel) to 101(slight decel). The higher the value, the more throttle is kept on when you let off the gas. Used to make the engine breaking less is placed right.

 

[jaeger22]

Mus1969stang, great thread here! I did the flash tune thing on mine 3 or 4 years ago and had a lot of fun playing with it. I recently added an Arrow header and that made the surge at around 2000 rpm much worse so I did exactly as you proposed above and fattened up the throttle/RPM map around the 2K point. It helped a bunch.
One thing I did a little differently is that I created a third mode I call SS. Now I have T, S, and SS (Supper Sport!)
Here is how. As you point out above the issue with the CJM is that it brings in the neutral/idle timing map which has some bad timing at high throttle settings. I guess the engineers at Yamaha didn't expect the motor to be running in that range with the clutch in. . . : BUT we have control of that with the Flash Tune! So I dropped in a regular timing map and build a very aggressive throttle map in the neutral/clutch area. I added a switch on my dash to short the clutch switch and that gives me the SS. I kept the changes to T and S very mild, but with SS I felt like I could play with little risk. One big advantage of this approach is that I can switch it on the fly with out having to stop so I can instantly compare with S or T modes. I can even switch SS on/off with the throttle set while riding down the road.
My version of Flash Tune is so old it does not require that I hook to the internet. I have it on an old laptop with XP that I only use for tuning. Both for the S10 and my play bike, a DIY EFI DR650 I built a few years back. I would try to find and post maps but it is a bit of a pain with them being on that old machine. Sounds like you are already way ahead of me anyway!
John

 

[Checkswrecks]

By the way, other than different ECUs, the gen 1 and gen two bikes are very similsr. Haven't played with the decel maps. They differ a lot between the two. Don't add decel to the first gear low rpm or it will speed up idle until you brake. Just a FYI note. One person said the notice the bike idled around 11-12 mph vs 8-9. That's due to the 1000rpm block being bumped from 100(no decel) to 101(slight decel). The higher the value, the more throttle is kept on when you let off the gas. Used to make the engine breaking less is placed right.

Ummm - They have different pistons, cams, and some other essential details making the engines different. The Gen1 was so conservative, that Yamaha listened to us in developing the Gen2 maps. (We have a couple of them as owners in our forum.) By the time you can hear pinging, you are already far far beyond stoichiometry and the detonation can do serious damage. Not immediately, but it also won't take forever. Have fun, just don't live on the edge, since these engines have no knock sensors like the BMWs.

 

[Mus1969stang]

Thanks for the info jaeger! I'm happy with 2 modes right now, but I've thought of the same. I had already fixed the ignition timing in the neutral map just for the heck of it. I may decide to make myself a third mode some day.

Checkswrecks, thanks for the info on the gen 1 and gen 2 differences too. I'll keep an eye out on the spark plugs and general behavior of the bike with the gen 2 mods I put into the ECU. It just runs so strong and smooth, I'm not sure I'll change it back too soon, but I will keep a close eye on it. I don't have any long rides planned for a while, If I do a long ride I might swap in my gen 1 tune. I'm not terribly worried. If a motor runs smooth and feels strong it's probably alright. I was much more worried riding around with the arrow headers and no tune. You could feel that the bike wasn't happy in that setup. I'll be careful though, thank you for the warning.

Work has me really busy, so I'll try to post more in a few days.

::021::

 

[Mus1969stang]

:-[ Chaseswrecks, you've got me worried, so I went back to my other ECU maps. If I ever get a chance to hit a dyno, I may reload the gen 2 map setup I have and see how the AFRs look. LOL, I was perfectly happy with it until you put that bit of worry into my thoughts.... just lurking in the back of my mind! Better safe than sorry... Anyways, work is killing me so I haven't had much more time to play with the tunes. I'm still trying to get the sweet spot for the arrow headers figured out on my gen 1 maps. I"ll post more when I get that figured out. ::26::

 

[jbrown]

Remember that at idle, steady cruise, light acceleration, and on deceleration, the mixture control is closed loop, controlled by the O2 sensor feedback. The fuel maps are likely only a staring point under those conditions, and the ECU will create a trim adjustment driven by the O2 sensor data. To have complete control, you'd need to replace the O2 sensors with something that tells the ECU everything is perfect all the time (like the O2 optimizer used with the PCV).

Adjusting the throttle maps and neutral timing map is about all I've done to make a very big improvement. Of primary interest to me was making the neutral map match the first gear map to remove the perceived dip in power when you let the clutch out and start moving (just when it's important not to mess up!).

 

[Mus1969stang]

Great idea on matching the timing. I haven't had time this week to do much, but I also want to change my neutral ignition timing by adding some RPM points below 900rpm. The gen 2 does this and retards the timing around 600rpm. I want to do the same on my gen 1 while keeping the other timing close to stock. retarding the timing a couple degrees at <600rpm would allow the bike to crank easier when at the low starter speeds. Has anyone tried that yet? I can't remember if it was the Harley software or power commander that allows you to so about the same thing.

 

[cavenger]

So what is the consensus on the tuning yourself? Is it worth it to spend the extra funds to do it yourself?

 

[Xclimation]

Sooo a Gen 1 data link cable won't work on a Gen 2? Hate to have to buy the bench kit like it's only sold that way for the Gen 2.

 

[Dutch97501]

Mus1969stang
This has been a great read. My brother is CDutch here on the forum. Sadly he passed away a few weeks ago and I am trying to finish his bike for him so I can give him his last ride out to his final resting place. Finishing the bike has been a mess. He took his bike in for the recall and the dealer cut the flash tune plug off and thew it away. I am trying to get a replacement from flash tune now and will see if I can get the bike running again. I ordered the Arrow exhaust he wanted and the World crosser kit and will try to flash the ECU once put back together so I can give him his dream ride. I have a BMW 1200GSA that I ride so this is just for Charlie. So I just want to say THX from a newbe trying to do right by my brother.

 

[erdat]

some of the picture are blurry, any way to get the clear version of the pictures_

 

[Gigitt]

some of the picture are blurry, any way to get the clear version of the pictures_

Photobucket blurry photos are now how Photobucket force you to upgrade the service and pay$$. the account holder has used too much bandwidth sharing pictures and now nobody can see them until the monthy data bandwidth resets or they pay$$.

 

[nikira]

Hi, I also want to get involved in the topic because I made my hybrid map by importing the 2014 data and adjusting it to 2012. I would like you to try it and ask for opinions about it. You can find it at niki@kolio-bg.com at FTECU.