First Shaft Drive, Seal Failing - Can I ride it 1,500 miles?

[Mtbjay]

The hub side seal can be done pretty easily. I think I've read that some specialty tools are needed to do the pinion seal. I've got a twenty year old Royal Star diff on a shelf because it was easier to buy a wrecker diff than to fix the pinion seal.

The #4 seal? This part # from Babbitsonline? ( 93102-32480-00 ) It's buried its the pumpkin. I read it's harder to access... looks like you have to not only disassemble the pumpkin, but pull the Shaft Dive Assembly apart to access it. I might want to leave that for more experienced hands. I sure hope it's the #25 seal ( 93102-70004-00 ) - the easy one to get to, clean and/or replace. If I run into issues, I might miss my departure date. Those NORCAL roads are too good to miss!

 

[steve68steve]

The hub side seal can be done pretty easily. I think I've read that some specialty tools are needed to do the pinion seal. I've got a twenty year old Royal Star diff on a shelf because it was easier to buy a wrecker diff than to fix the pinion seal.

This .


Clarity for the OP: all my comments on seal swap were on the hub side seal. The drive shaft side is a PITA. IIRC, I confirmed the leak was on the hub side by finding a clean, dry, weep hole forward of the pumpkin and a a dry, slightly rusty drive shaft entry. The hub and underside of the pumpkin itself was wet.


I still wouldn't cancel a trip (I'd take a quart of fluid with me and check it every day or two), but buying both seals might be a waste of $$, and replacing a working drive shaft seal a waste of time and effort.

 

[OldRider]

The hub side seal can be done pretty easily. I think I've read that some specialty tools are needed to do the pinion seal. I've got a twenty year old Royal Star diff on a shelf because it was easier to buy a wrecker diff than to fix the pinion seal.

Pinion seal on the Tenere and Royal Star are the same set up. Once you have the final drive off the bike there is a nut in the center that hold the coupling on the pinion. Take that nut off, pull the coupling out and there is the seal. Not a bad job at all. Special tools come into play if you need to pull the pinion gear itself out.

 

[Berg_Donk]

My seal exploration may be of interest; http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/bergdonks-xt1200z.898838/page-13#post-26945477

 

[Ramseybella]

All things aside, no one has asked if you had the recall rear O-ring replaced along with the fuel pump O-ring and headlight harness that Yamaha put out for the first generation Tenere's?
Your 2012 fits the bill.
This is what i did when my rear started leaking most likely didn't let it completely weep out of the hole before i screwed it shut.
Take the bike for a good half hour ride put it on the center stand and pull the fill hole plug while it's hot. The expanded fluid will flow until it stops.
Plug the hole and after it cools over night check it with a thin strip of bent cardboard as a dip stick, it may be just a tad below the hole.
Haven't had a drop on the floor or around my rim in over 10k.

 

[Mtbjay]

All things aside, no one has asked if you had the recall rear O-ring replaced along with the fuel pump O-ring and headlight harness that Yamaha put out for the first generation Tenere's?
Your 2012 fits the bill.
This is what i did when my rear started leaking most likely didn't let it completely weep out of the hole before i screwed it shut.
Take the bike for a good half hour ride put it on the center stand and pull the fill hole plug while it's hot. The expanded fluid will flow until it stops.
Plug the hole and after it cools over night check it with a thin strip of bent cardboard as a dip stick, it may be just a tad below the hole.
Haven't had a drop on the floor or around my rim in over 10k.

O-ring recalls? Wouldn’t the dealer, the one I purchased the bike from, the one who’s done any service I have ever needed, tell me?

I got the memo on the headlight harness (from here, maybe?).

I suppose it’s possible that my leak is minor and sone of the FD oil is overflow. I squeezed as much as it would take, with a turkey baster, into the fill hole before capping it off (figured it amounted to less than an ounce or two over the minimum recommend capacity).

I may test your theory while I am waiting for the seals.

 

[Mtbjay]

My seal exploration may be of interest; http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/bergdonks-xt1200z.898838/page-13#post-26945477

I’d rather tackle, “diagonal sticks and gooey shit,” than that job! (Even with the confident pictorial! Thx!)

 

[RonH]

There wasn't ever a recall for anything to do with the shaft drive. They had the headlight harness and oring in the fuel tank recalls and I believe those were the only two on the gen1 super tenere.

 

[Don in Lodi]

There wasn't ever a recall for anything to do with the shaft drive. They had the headlight harness and oring in the fuel tank recalls and I believe those were the only two on the gen1 super tenere.

::008::

 

[Ramseybella]

There wasn't ever a recall for anything to do with the shaft drive. They had the headlight harness and oring in the fuel tank recalls and I believe those were the only two on the gen1 super tenere.

It was replaced under warranty on my 2012..
Oop's!! :-*

 

[Don in Lodi]

It was replaced under warranty on my 2012..
Oop's!! :-*

LOL, I had three days left on my warranty when I got mine done.

 

[Ramseybella]

LOL, I had three days left on my warranty when I got mine done.

I need to get it replaced again but Warranty is long gone..
I never had to use the warranty it was an 4 year extended one as well when i bought the bike used.
Yamaha recently replaced my main harness for free after warranty was done months ago, plus that $500.00 credit that replaced front fork seals still have $150.00 left.
I've been pretty lucky between Woody's Wheels rear rim ongoing nightmare now fixed and Yamaha Tech all this was done free of cost with a $500.00 credit.

 

[Mtbjay]

Well, I got 'er done, boys. I had all afternoon to fiddle with it and managed to successfully implant a new main oil seal in that pesky, leaky, final drive. Thanks of all the tips!

Say, I took a bunch of step-by-step pictures and thought I'd make a nice pictorial for those who may be need it. What's a good web host for the 20 hi-res pics I have? I learned a bunch, what to do/NOT to do, and would like to share.

 

[RCinNC]

I've been using Imgur. Free, and easy to upload photos.

I'm looking forward to the tutorial. I haven't had this problem, but it'll be nice to have a step by step guide with photos to supplement the service manual.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Did you replace the cushdrive wedges?

 

[Mtbjay]

Did you replace the cushdrive wedges?

Nah. Do they wear out this early? A few started to fall out - because I didn’t have support under the tire. My wiggling & wrangling caused a few more to become wedged, preventing the removal of the wheel. I found the whole concept simply amusing and took a picture for those who’ve never seen a Cush Drive. I understand better now “shaft driveline lash,” and the fundamental difference between shaft vs. chain dynamics.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Naw, I just saw all the little piggies scattered about.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Sounds like you have a plan and are doing well. Yes, these rear ends will occasionally have a seal leak. At the same time, seals leaking are like head cuts in how much worse they look than actual damage.

 

[Mtbjay]

OP Follow-up statement: #4 seal replacement was a complete success. One thousand mile SO Oregon/NORCAL tour and no leaks. Excellent.

 

[krussell]

::012:: Excellent. Thanks for the follow up post!