"Factory Fixes" on brand new ST ES

[Vermalien]

Hello, and thanks for reading and replying to my very first post! I am in the process of downsizing my fleet of 14 CB1100, 06 FJR and 09 DRZ and will be purchasing a new ES model, hopefully sooner than later, because of its size, reliability, and general awesomeness.

My question is, what are some things that you all would reccomend to do to a brand new bike that are faulty from the factory to lessen the chance of them failing down the line? For example, I have so far read that the swingarm pivot and drive shaft splines are shipping dry on many ST models, which is something I wish to address the moment I ride it home. What other issues should be addressed right away in order to guarantee hundreds of thousands of miles of trouble free riding? Finally, what are some common issues that seem to often fail on these bikes? I will be holding onto this bike for the long haul and would love to prepare myself ahead time. Thanks!

 

[Sierra1]

Welcome....pivot points apparently. Clutch lever, shift linkage, and maybe the back brake pivot point. I have had ZERO issues, but others have mentioned these; especially the shifter linkage. And, depending on your point of view....the throttle response. Personally, I love the instantaneous/twitchy response paired up with the heavy engine braking; others have re-flashed the ECU. All that I have done is change the oil, mount some crash bars, and a skid plate. Oh yeah, and use up tires. That's another choice you'll have.... to knobbie, or not to knobbie. Enjoy!!

 

[Don T]

No harm done in taking the preventive measures you suggest, but in reality there is a very slim chance that you will have any issues if you don't and just stick to the service schedule...

 

[Mak10]

I’d recommend putting some protection on the bike ( skidplate, crashbars/engine guard) and ride it. I put Givi crashbars on and have been happy.

Leveling the seat helped me on the long rides, and I put some tank grippers on for protection. I wish I had put some clear automotive bra type material on the tank as the stock Yamaha tank bag scuffs my paint in spots. Not really a big deal.

If you ride any at night improve the lights.

Remember it’s not a DRZ but is very capable for a 600 lb bike.
Wind management depends on your height, helmet and preferences. I’m 6’ and would like a taller windshield for those long hauls. I just haven’t been able to pick one.

 

[Mak10]

Oh and be careful with the switch for sport and touring. Mine is being problematic and wants to switch to touring more by itself. After riding mainly in sport mode I find touring feels lethargic.

 

[maverick2076]

Lube the shift pivot.
Level the seat.
Flash the ECU.
Crash guards and skid plate.

 

[hobdayd]

Buy it, fit bash plate, adjust gear lever and clutch lever to liking, remove excess play from throttle cables and ride in sport mode. 22,000 miles, no issues just routine maintainance...

 

[escapefjrtist]

Treat it just like your FJR and it'll be good! I've done nothing to my Tenere other than making it mine plus routine maintenance, and it still runs like the day I brought it home.

~G

 

[Vermalien]

Thank you all for the input!

 

[SHUMBA]

Hello, and thanks for reading and replying to my very first post! I am in the process of downsizing my fleet of 14 CB1100, 06 FJR and 09 DRZ and will be purchasing a new ES model, hopefully sooner than later, because of its size, reliability, and general awesomeness.

My question is, what are some things that you all would reccomend to do to a brand new bike that are faulty from the factory to lessen the chance of them failing down the line? For example, I have so far read that the swingarm pivot and drive shaft splines are shipping dry on many ST models, which is something I wish to address the moment I ride it home. What other issues should be addressed right away in order to guarantee hundreds of thousands of miles of trouble free riding? Finally, what are some common issues that seem to often fail on these bikes? I will be holding onto this bike for the long haul and would love to prepare myself ahead time. Thanks!

I'm new to the Super Tenere with a 2018 ES and now have 5,100 km on it.
Nothing comes to mind as far as defects etc. I strongly recommend adding some crash bars even if you don't plan to ride off road, the stock halogen lights are garbage, so add some LEDS so motorists can see you coming. Be aware that the 12 volt socket is fused at only 3 AMPS, no good for an air pump. Carry a tubeless tyre repair kit and a 12 volt pump. Add a 12 volt socket outlet. There's many more things one can add, just depends on your intended use.
SHUMBA

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[Clawdog60]

The only thing I don’t like on my 17 is the low rpm and shifting throttle response. It sucks.

 

[HeliMark]

Skid plate, crash bars, and ride. The engine is pretty tight for the first 5 - 8K miles or so.

Normal maintenance is all that is needed for longevity with this engine.

As with any spoke bike, and maybe a little worse on the S10, is check the spokes as much as every 1K miles or so, for the first 5K miles(ish). After that, check every oil change, and maybe not even that, once you know they have seated and do not loosen up. Most have tie wrapped the spokes, just in case.

 

[kmasa58]

Hi, All ... who/where can I can get my cpu re-flashed? I've had my ST for about 8 mos now and been totally loving it. It's bit down on power compared to my BMWGS, but I prefer the tank range and the comfort on the ST. I'm for 'quieter' ride, but wouldn't mind bit more power; at least smoother throttle respond between "S & T" modes. I tried riding in "S" mode for while, but take a bit of getting used before I feel comfortable. Thanks...

 

[dell835]

Hi, All ... who/where can I can get my cpu re-flashed? I've had my ST for about 8 mos now and been totally loving it. It's bit down on power compared to my BMWGS, but I prefer the tank range and the comfort on the ST. I'm for 'quieter' ride, but wouldn't mind bit more power; at least smoother throttle respond between "S & T" modes. I tried riding in "S" mode for while, but take a bit of getting used before I feel comfortable. Thanks...View attachment 56809

My guess is if you reflash it you will drastically lower the fuel range you enjoy. Not because of the reflash but because of the way you ride it afterwards.

 

[kmasa58]

understood dell835 ... I 'see' your point, I rode about 200 miles today and forced myself to only use "S" mode and I was riding bit more aggressively. IF it wasn't for that on/off throttle abrutpness, I would just keep it in "S" mode. Thanks...

 

[Sierra1]

My guess is if you reflash it you will drastically lower the fuel range you enjoy. Not because of the reflash but because of the way you ride it afterwards.

Not necessarily. I spent the day riding quite aggressively in very tight corners/curves. Since the speed never got too high because of the curves, and the bike has plenty of grunt down low so the engine doesn't have to work very hard, I was getting 53+ mpg. Now, the R6 I was riding with, used much more fuel since he had to keep the rpms up. But, if you're riding in "sweepers" and the speed is high, then yes, you will use more fuel.

 

[HeliMark]

understood dell835 ... I 'see' your point, I rode about 200 miles today and forced myself to only use "S" mode and I was riding bit more aggressively. IF it wasn't for that on/off throttle abrutpness, I would just keep it in "S" mode. Thanks...

Ride some more, and you will probably calibrate your wrist to the throttle. I came off a ST1300, that I think was worse then the S10, and with my stock bike, the only time I am not in "S" mode, is on dirt or in the rain. For me, the only reason to have it flashed, would be to get rid of the gear restrictions.

 

[EricV]

IF it wasn't for that on/off throttle abrutpness, I would just keep it in "S" mode.

That's not the bike, it's you. Throttle by wire takes a more precise movement of the wrist. Once you master that, there is no abruptness. You're simply twisting the throttle too far, too quickly.

You will read people talking about too much engine braking for their taste. Again, this is not really the bike, it's the rider. If you don't like the engine braking of the this engine, DON'T CLOSE THE THROTTLE ALL THE WAY. It's really that simple. Learning to accurately modulate the throttle is just part of getting used to throttle by wire bikes.

If you choose to have the ECU flashed, the best option is a forum member here that will actually listen to what you want to change and do that. And he's honest about what he can and can't do. LINK avc8130 is his user name.

 

[Clawdog60]

That's not the bike, it's you. Throttle by wire takes a more precise movement of the wrist. Once you master that, there is no abruptness. You're simply twisting the throttle too far, too quickly.

You will read people talking about too much engine braking for their taste. Again, this is not really the bike, it's the rider. If you don't like the engine braking of the this engine, DON'T CLOSE THE THROTTLE ALL THE WAY. It's really that simple. Learning to accurately modulate the throttle is just part of getting used to throttle by wire bikes.

If you choose to have the ECU flashed, the best option is a forum member here that will actually listen to what you want to change and do that. And he's honest about what he can and can't do. LINK avc8130 is his user name.

I disagree. Triumph nailed TBW. Very smooth throttle response. Which was a true TBW. S10 is not a true TBW.

 

[Sierra1]

Doesn't the ECU control the throttle, or more accurately, fuel delivery? And, doesn't the ECU do what it is programed to do? Different manufacturer....different program....different throttle response? My ST1300 acted more like a carb bike; including the engine stall when the throttle was closed too quick. The Tenere is the only bike that I have ridden that has felt/responded in this manner. Now that I'm used to it....wouldn't have it any other way.