ES Front Suspension

[MIKE R]

Are they easy to strip down and re-assemble? Is there anyone out there who can explain how its done?

Does the Electronic Suspension then have to be re calibrated as described in the How to reset the ES Suspension thread.

Many thanks

Mike

 

[WJBertrand]

Watching...

 

[MIKE R]

Just bought this:-

CD manual for ES on UK EBay item No 183624475764 but it’s from USA


At first glance it appears to be very comprehensive and answers all my questions.

Mike

 

[dmulk]

I recently found both of my seals blown on my 2014 ES (and it was WJBertrand's fault now that I think about it...). Dealer covered the rebuild. I pulled the forks and dropped them off. They replaced the seals. I re-installed the forks, plugged them in and started the bike. No recalibration procedure on my end and no error codes.

<D>

 

[robson]

I recently found both of my seals blown on my 2014 ES (and it was WJBertrand's fault now that I think about it...). Dealer covered the rebuild. I pulled the forks and dropped them off. They replaced the seals. I re-installed the forks, plugged them in and started the bike. No recalibration procedure on my end and no error codes.

<D>

are they hard to disconnect from the electronic servo cables?

 

[dmulk]

Not at all. Just squeeze and they come right off. That said, I will suggest taking a quick photo of the position and angle of the plugs. They are deliberately positioned (and the service manual calls this out) to make enough slack so the cables don't become interference points for turning the bars, etc.

 

[WJBertrand]

I recently found both of my seals blown on my 2014 ES (and it was WJBertrand's fault now that I think about it...)

Now who took us up that road and then convinced up to cross those ditches??

 

[ballisticexchris]

Boy I'm lucky. Race Tech is not far from me. It's 75 bucks each end to remove and replace. I figure to take the bike in at around 10,000 miles. That's what the service manager suggested. I'm at a point in my life where I'm letting others do the work on my vehicles. I'm capable to do it myself. OTOH it's nice to know you can have the service done right and perfect by letting Race Tech do the work. Not to mention they have a full service machine shop, lifts, spring rate machines, and everything to fully rebuild and service the bike.

 

[dmulk]

Now who took us up that road and then convinced up to cross those ditches??

Hey man....it didn't take too much "convincing" IIRC....of course, once I was on the other side of that third ditch I did notice that executive conference taking place between you and Hal...I thought I was going to be a casualty of a corporate RIF'd (Reduction In Force)... instead Hal calmly delivered the news that I was just to take on additional job responsibilities for the same pay... lol

<D>

 

[dmulk]

Boy I'm lucky. Race Tech is not far from me. It's 75 bucks each end to remove and replace. I figure to take the bike in at around 10,000 miles. That's what the service manager suggested. I'm at a point in my life where I'm letting others do the work on my vehicles. I'm capable to do it myself. OTOH it's nice to know you can have the service done right and perfect by letting Race Tech do the work. Not to mention they have a full service machine shop, lifts, spring rate machines, and everything to fully rebuild and service the bike.

I hear ya, Chris....I have a good indy mechanic down here in the SD area that trust for the same sort of thing. Honestly, after reading the manual I was ready to do the work myself, but the local Yamaha dealer (that I also have a good relationship with) surprised me by getting Yamaha to cover the seals. They didn't build in enough labor for the shop to make any money so I basically worked it out with the service manager to bring the forks in off the bike. It only took me 30mins on each end to pull the forks and re-install. Another thing that impresses me about the Super T...it's so easy to get to things on the bike to work on.

<D>

 

[MIKE R]

I recently found both of my seals blown on my 2014 ES (and it was WJBertrand's fault now that I think about it...). Dealer covered the rebuild. I pulled the forks and dropped them off. They replaced the seals. I re-installed the forks, plugged them in and started the bike. No recalibration procedure on my end and no error codes.[/QUOTE

That's good to know

Many Thanks

Mike

 

[robson]

Another thing that impresses me about the Super T...it's so easy to get to things on the bike to work on.
<D>

that is except the valves check, right?

 

[peelxtz1200]

Just changed fork oil on my ES after 37k miles and measured oil coming out of each fork leg got a bit of a shock as there have been no leaks at all. The left fork had 470ml and the right fork had 320ml on re filling they both took about 475ml with a 148mm air gap. A tip for tightening the top cap bolt with stepper motor is to raise your forks through the top yoke about 10-15 mm and remove handle bars (just sit them on the tank with rags under them) and nip the lower you Yokes up with a 10mm racket spanner, doing this makes it easy to tighten the top cap bolt and not damaged them. Ps before working on your forks make sure the suspension is set in std position for 1 rider with no luggage as then you will not to recalibrate it.

 

[tallpaul]

Nice one peelxtz1200. That is 24 carat gold information right there. Thanks for posting!

 

[Davesax36]

I'm low key not looking forward to this, but I'll be doing it this spring. No idea when it was done last, and I've always been lazy with forks.