ES Fork Cap Dissassembly

[jrusell]

That part is the piston (for lack of a better term), of the anti- bottoming device. The upper part of the cartridge with the 4 tangs you are making a tool for is actually the bottom out cone.
This small piston is held to the damper rod by circlips. When you get close to full compression this piston starts to enter the bottom out cone and is a tight fit. Oil is trapped in this bottom out cone below the piston and has to squeeze out the small gap around the piston. This resistance is the bottom out protection built into your fork.

So yes this slides down into the top portion when you use the tool and does not cause any interference. In the last picture of my post above showing the cone the piston is in the bottom of the cone and can't be seen.

Here are a few other pics.
1st pic notice the one on the left it can't be seen, but on the right it is just visible sticking out of the bottom out cone.
2nd pic the bottom out piston completely disappears when the fork is fully compressed.

 

[ocgeek]

Understood
so bottom line the damper "stopper" that sits at the mid of the M10 rod is a "do not care" as far as the dumper tool is concerned because it can recess inside the top of the dumper itself

Thanks !!

 

[delecti1]

Hi all,
Question I changed the fork oil on the weekend, 780mls combined volume out of both forks put the same, but half back in each leg. Bought and downloaded a manual the AS forks are saying 505mls and 493mls, seems a big difference to actual. Any thoughts???

 

[jrusell]

If you just loosened the caps and drained into a container it is possible the cartridge did not fully drain.
On normal forks you should screw the caps back on and then pump the forks several times and then drain again. Do this several times and this will remove most of the oil. Measure oil removed separately.

On ES forks where compression in one leg and rebound the other the refill ports are staggered. One in the top and one on the bottom of the cartridge. This will make fully draining the forks even harder.

I would suggest hanging the forks overnight or at least a few hours to make sure they are drained.

Best method is to remove springs and set oil level by height not by volume removed.

 

[ocgeek]

fully agree with the post from Russel.
Loading oil "by volume" is a too loose exercise. The right way (though more work) is to level the oil

 

[holligl]

On the ES (ZE) the rod is M10 (so the service book says)
I have bought an M10 Hex extension nut (the tall ones if you know what i mean 30mm tall) and i'll attach a piece of M10 threaded bar on top...job done

It is M10, EXTRA FINE. You may need to drill a hole in the center of the connector nut to allow the oil discharge. Oil comes up through the damper rod, on compression for the left, and when raised for the right. I was able to get mine back together using a piece of vinyl tubing pressed and screwed onto the end of the rod. I had a couple holes to let the oil drain. Right side was a little harder, discharging oil any time you raised it.

Here is the spring compressor I put together with some scraps. Since it encircles the spacer, it can't slip off.

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[Bart]

I like your compressor tool.

Re the M10 extension part, another way is a suitably bent piece of coat hanger (or similar) wire.

 

[holligl]

Re the M10 extension part, another way is a suitably bent piece of coat hanger (or similar) wire.

As long as the lock nut is on. A long zip tie would work too. To remove the spring guide, the lock nut has to be removed. You are probably going to drop the rod down when the guide is removed. It can be reached with some long nosed pliers.


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[ocgeek]

It is M10, EXTRA FINE....

You mean by that that the tread is not a standard M10 x 1.25 mm but rather M10 x 1.00 mm is it correct ?

.P.S. ..crap

 

[holligl]

You mean by that that the tread is not a standard M10 x 1.25 mm but rather M10 x 1.00 mm is it correct ?

.P.S. ..crap

Roger that!

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[ocgeek]

ok
i bought an M10 x 1 hollow rod (actually i discovered those are used in roof lights lol) and an extension nut... looks like the "rod puller tool" is ready as well

 

[holligl]

ok
i bought an M10 x 1 hollow rod (actually i discovered those are used in roof lights lol) and an extension nut... looks like the "rod puller tool" is ready as well

Thanks! Brilliant, I've had this hanging above my bench for over 30 years. (I've turned several lamps in my woodworking history.

I would still drill a discharge hole near the connection.

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[gv550]

This is my fork rod puller tool. 3/8 plastic PEX water pipe that I ran a M10x1 tap into one end.

 

[delecti1]

Thanks forgot to get back to this, update, bought a workshop manual, didn't get all the oil out of the forks, take 2. Drained them properly the forks take 505 on side and 493 on the other for es model. Didn't use any spring compressors to take out springs just a 14mm on lock nut and use the 44mm to take off the cap. 148mm air gap, back together and Bob's your uncle

 

[ocgeek]

Out of a curiosity could you elaborate a bit on how did you reach out to the 14mm lock nut which is hidden within the white plastic collar (that's the one which needs at the end the pressing down spring thing) ?

 

[ocgeek]

This is my fork rod puller tool. 3/8 plastic PEX water pipe that I ran a M10x1 tap into one end.

gv, have you drilled the rod puller as per Hollig suggestion (assuming you already used it) ?
The Yamaha rod puller does not seem to have any holes in it but may be i'm wrong.

 

[gv550]

gv, have you drilled the rod puller as per Hollig suggestion (assuming you already used it) ?
The Yamaha rod puller does not seem to have any holes in it but may be i'm wrong.

I have used this homemade rod puller, no holes drilled and I’m not sure why any are needed. The connection is well above the oil level. But holligl has ES, I don’t so there may be something different.
edit.... looking at an earlier post, holligl was pumping the damper rod to extract oil, I didn’t have the rod puller connected when I pumped and drained the forks.

 

[bnschroder]

Does anybody have a good pictorial how to change the fork oil on an ES? The more I read this thread the more I am confused, and I want to tackle this over the holidays.
And to start a war - what Fork Oil should I order? Since I am really cluelss about the subtle differences I am inclined to go with OEM Yamalube

 

[escapefjrtist]

I used this one from thetenerist for my recent seal and bushing change on my '12. ES is the same idea except the cap has the integral stepper motor and needle valve assembly. The cap is bottomed on the damper rod before tightening the jam nut. At least that's how the ES FJR is reassembled.

For an ES I would lean towards the OE recommended fluid, available from RM ATV or many other on-line retailers.

~G

 

[holligl]

I have used this homemade rod puller, no holes drilled and I’m not sure why any are needed. The connection is well above the oil level. But holligl has ES, I don’t so there may be something different.
edit.... looking at an earlier post, holligl was pumping the damper rod to extract oil, I didn’t have the rod puller connected when I pumped and drained the forks.

On my ES, with oil level filled, left side oil comes up through the damper rod when compressing (dropped to the bottom). The right side oil comes up through the tube when it is raised from the bottom (potentially messier during reassembly). That is why I suggested a hole. Not sure what happens if the tube is closed with a puller.

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