ES Fork Cap Dissassembly

holligl

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That is an option. I'm perf aware of the oring.
I'm not inclined to use that wrench as it might damage the bolt (aluminium); i'll keep this as plan B in case i find no better solution.

The ideal solution would be a Crow Foot Open Key (that has a sqare hole for the dyno)
however the 44 mm variant is close to impossible to find... it seems i need to draw it in cad (which i did) and have it laser cut from a 3-4mm iron plate...

View attachment 60576
I bought a 1-3/4" socket, and a 1/2-3/4" adapter at autozone. The socket was slightly loose, enough to add a couple layers of tape. As indicated, low torque required. I'm just looking to drain and refill with new oil.

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ocgeek

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The tool i had drawn in CAD has been laser cut, here it is.

I hope the 20mm size for grabbing the spacer collar (part 14 in the picture below) is right
It seems small as the rod is said to be M10 in the service book...
Normally an M10 Nut is 19mm in edge to edge size...so i wonder how the collar of the spacer (whihc goes over the nut) can actually be only 20mm...






Part 14.jpg

And the fork holder i made is this one (which is also used for compressing the spring)

 
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holligl

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The tool i had drawn in CAD has been laser cut, here it is.

I hope the 20mm size for grabbing the spacer collar (part 14 in the picture below) is right
I have my ES apart just to drain and replace oil. The white spacer measures 32mm, if that's the measurement you are looking for on an ES.


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ocgeek

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Hi,
i'm looking for the outside diameter of the white spacer ABOVE the collar.
The tool shall sit on/above the collar and around the spacer so that is what i would need checked.
Please confirm that 32 mm is referred to that size

How comes Bart had measured it to be 20 mm ?

Could you also measure (if that is possible) the inner diameter of the same ?
And last (sorry) is there any way to fit something above the spacer by pushing down or is it already very stiff so making that impossible ? (i'm thinking of inserting the tool above the spacer itself rather than above the spacer's collar....if that makes any sense)

many thanks in advance
 

Bart

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I have just taken my forks apart and was about to post that I gave some bad info on the collar size. It was a while ago when I last took the forks apart.

The plate/tool I used was made by hand and the plastic collar is not that big, so I pushed the spring down a few mm and slipped the tool on top of the spring but under the bottom of the collar. Yes the collar dia is 32mm....my apologies.

The tool you have can still be used as described above, I did it on my own ie with just one pair of hands.

Again...my apologies.



I
 

ocgeek

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Hi Bart,
no need for apology. Thanks for being active and responsive !
I have it all now. Will see if redo the tool or use it as is under the spacer.
Thanks all for the good info !
 

Bart

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I think my confusion has occurred as I have also recently taken other forks apart and with those a similar tool is slipped on top of the spring and under the locking nut that holds the fork cap on.

Here are some pictures of my simple tool, a bit of scrap and 10 mins with a hack saw
IMG_20191119_165654894[1].jpg

showing it is place under the plastic collar, the spring would be below
IMG_20191119_165722895[1].jpg

collar size
IMG_20191119_165912668_HDR[1].jpg

As a side note, my forks are apart again as I'm going to fit some softer linear springs, they are being made in the UK and should be ready in a few weeks. Will report back on this later.
 
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ocgeek

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Thanks Bart ! really appreciated all the pictures, precious info and the time spent to come back .
The new tool is already on order :D

Thanks Holligl

Good work folks ! I'm waiting some bits and then i'll be on my forks work too :cool:
 

holligl

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Thanks Bart ! really appreciated all the pictures, precious info and the time spent to come back .
The new tool is already on order :D

Thanks Holligl

Good work folks ! I'm waiting some bits and then i'll be on my forks work too :cool:
I wouldn't try to do anything other than compressing with the collared spacer. You have to get to the locknut. What are folks using for the damper rod puller special tool? I did not pull mine apart, just replaced the funky oil. While I have had no visible leaks, it looks like I did loose some oil over the 45k miles on the bike.

My caps where pretty stiff coming off, and the top of the triple tree does not give good clearance to allow a socket to fit square. I used a wood clamp to hold the tube for torquing the caps for reassembly, rather than using the pinch bolts to hold it.

Relubed steering bears while the forks were off.


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ocgeek

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I wouldn't try to do anything other than compressing with the collared spacer. You have to get to the locknut.

--> What are folks using for the damper rod puller special tool?

Relubed steering bears while the forks were off.
On the ES (ZE) the rod is M10 (so the service book says)
I have bought an M10 Hex extension nut (the tall ones if you know what i mean 30mm tall) and i'll attach a piece of M10 threaded bar on top...job done

On the other hand i'm curious on the other tool which is supposed to hold the dampers (aka cartridges) which are bolted from the bottom of the fork... idea is to remove those to make a good clean inside the tubes...

s-l1600.jpg

Assuming there is actually a need for such tool to hold the dumpers and plug back the screw at the end of the fork... i had not to do it in my previous bike... but ok let's prepare for the worst...

I did bought two aluminium tubes but i had to guess the sizes as my forks are not yet in the works.
It shall be close to the spring in diameter (38 mm - say 2-4 mm less to be able to sit on the round "balcony" at the top of the dumper) and i understood from the pics in the book 27 mm inside hollow...but i'm guessing a lot

bandicam 2019-11-20 08-11-11-726.jpg

I was planning to make a clone of the damper holding tool (which has four teeth at the end)

If anyone has the forks open would he be so kind to make some measurements if possible at all...

Thanks
 
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holligl

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I was planning to make a clone of the damper holding tool (which has four teeth at the end)

If anyone has the forks open would he be so kind to make some measurements if possible at all...

Thanks
I don't have my service manual with me. Are the Std and ES tools the same? (I suspect not.) It looks like the spring seats in that collar area, so the tool may be the same diameter and thickness as the straight ES spring. Could one simply use the spring, with friction, to rotate the cartridge? Maybe some one has bought the tool and can provide insight. What does the tool cost on line?

Then you need the seal driver too.

The cost of special tools may make it worth just taking the forks into the dealer for rebuild, unless you are a high mileage rough rider. I was quoted about $100/fork (off the bike), of which ~$50 is just for parts and oil. (The OEM oil is about $40/L. There may be cheaper substitutes).


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ocgeek

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Yes i'm talking ES variant. The dumper holder shall be the same

I have the seals driver already. I do not have the dumper holder though..

I was just looking to some measurements of the above dumper sitting place for the holder if that is possible
and yes i had used the springs as you say to hold the "dumper" (was not a dumper but ok) in my prevoius bike forks work

Thanks
 

jrusell

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Last year I made the tool for my Non ES forks.
I just welded a socket to a piece of pipe I had laying around.
15/16 - 1/2 inch drive, socket welded to pipe and then cut notches as required to fit into the slots. I then had to grind it slightly to make a nice fit inside the top of the cartridge. Damper rod will fit up the square 1/2 inch drive hole.
Outside diameter required to fit into slot is 30mm. Tabs are approx 11mm across.
A 22mm socket would have worked better, but I didn't want to trash a metric socket. SAE sockets never get used so made more sense to sacrifice one of them.

It's rough but works, anything 30mm OD will work well.
I have reinstalled many cartridges into forks and I think only one or two times did I really need this type of tool. Actually after making this one it wasn't needed. Usually there is enough friction to prevent the cartridge slipping and you can snug up the Allen bolt without it and the Tenere was no different. It went snug with no spinning of the cartridge. Nice to have a tool just in case though.

99%sure your ES cartridge will have the same top slots.
DSC01278.JPGDSC01279.JPGIMG_0405.JPGIMG_0408.JPGIMG_0414.JPGIMG_0425.JPGDSC01247.JPG
 
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ocgeek

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Thanks Russel !!!!

Wonderful report.

The pipe i got is 32 OD and 28 ID ...
i hope i can make it fit...it seems on the large side of things... grrr :-(

Cheers
 

ocgeek

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The new laser cut tool is finished.. :p
Here it is





and here it slides on the fork holder / spring press i made



It's ready for the forks now.

Thanks all for the inputs
 

holligl

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The new laser cut tool is finished..
Here it is





and here it slides on the fork holder / spring press i made



It's ready for the forks now.

Thanks all for the inputs
Picture links don't work for me...

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ocgeek

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(...) Usually there is enough friction to prevent the cartridge slipping and you can snug up the Allen bolt without it and the Tenere was no different. It went snug with no spinning of the cartridge. Nice to have a tool just in case though.

99%sure your ES cartridge will have the same top slots.
Hi again Russel,
One question on the tube tool you made (pictured above)
If i understand correctly the smaller ID of the tool you made is 1/2" (12.7 mm) which is the plug of the soldered socket

While i know the rod is M10 (10mm) i was wondering how did you slide the tool over the point indicated in the picture (it look wider than 1/2" from the pic)
Or when the rod is fully inserted in the dumper that part is laying within the socket dome perhaps ?

I'm asking as i'm trying to figure out the ID of the tube. The picture in the service manual quotes a 27 mm which is unclear to me

Thanks

Dumper.jpg

Thanks
 
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