Electrical System turns on, but no starter engagement

[Michelada]

I'm stumped. My 2013 S10 was towed to Chaparral Motorsports after it died (wouldn't restart) on my way to Running Springs. After they kept it for nearly 2 weeks, they told me it was cost at least $1,200 to fix. I took it to a local shop in Orange, CA who looked at, showed me the diagnostic codes and also told me I should remove the auxiliary wiring that owner #1, owner #2 and I performed. I've done all of that, and she still won't turn over.
I've gone into diagnostic mode multiple times and get the ,following codes:

• d01: 19,
• d03: 100 and 99,
• d05: 22, 84, 82, 84.
• d06: 77, 79, 99, & 81
• d14: 14
• d14: 17
• d15: 16

All of the other codes appear to be normal. Some of the above may be normal, I have no idea.
When I search the manual, I can't find anything that references these 7 codes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Michelada

 

[Squibb]

So a 2013 - Has the harness recall been undertaken? Check with your dealer.

Nothing shouts at me with those codes, they range from TPS closed readings to air temp & coolant temp, which look like CA ambient.

When you say it wouldn't restart & later that it won't turn over, can you expand a little. The first sounds like a classic hard start scenario, the second more like a dead/dying battery or flaky starter. Then, what exactly did CM say they were planning to do for their $1200?

Tell us more; maybe we can give you a steer.

 

[Boris]

Has the simple stuff been checked? Fuses, leads to starter solenoid?

 

[Michelada]

So a 2013 - Has the harness recall been undertaken? Check with your dealer.

Nothing shouts at me with those codes, they range from TPS closed readings to air temp & coolant temp, which look like CA ambient.

When you say it wouldn't restart & later that it won't turn over, can you expand a little. The first sounds like a classic hard start scenario, the second more like a dead/dying battery or flaky starter. Then, what exactly did CM say they were planning to do for their $1200?

Tell us more; maybe we can give you a steer.

Thanks @Squibb and @Boris for the quick responses! I'm the 3rd owner and have to assume that Chaparral Motorsports would have known if there was a harness recall. (I'm not sure which dealer originally sold the S10.) I was only able to speak with a Chaparral Motorsports service agent, not the tech, and he knew nothing. Only telling me that it would cost at least $1,200 to dig deeper into the problem.

I don't know what some of these acronyms mean: " TPS closed readings to air temp & coolant temp, which look like CA ambient. "
The battery is brand new and I even have it on a tender so I know it's in perfect shape.

I'll look at the fuses and the leads to the starter. When I put the key in the ignition, the S10 "comes to life" it just doesn't make the "start your engine" sound, not a peep.

 

[RCinNC]

Just to be clear, when you say "it won't turn over", do you mean that absolutely nothing happens when you push the start button? No noise, no clicking, no starter motor spinning, nothing at all? And when you turn the key, the instrument pods come on, the fuel pump runs, etc?

If all that is correct, then I think I'd be suspicious of a failed starter relay, or a starter relay with connections that are corroded bad enough to prevent current flow.

Note: I'd still check the obvious things first, like a loose battery connection, or a loose connection from the battery to the starter relay, or a blown fuse in the ignition circuit.

 

[Fennellg]

 

[Squibb]

TPS = Throttle position sensor
CA = The State in which you reside.

Unfortunately, if those are the only codes you have through the dash, I guess the dealer has cleared them & so wiped the history.

The only oddity is d:05 that figure of 22 as an air intake temperature. D:06 is coolant temp & all the rest appear to sit between 77 & 84 F. However, that is unlikely to be the issue.

So, I'm afraid its back to basics, checking through everything logically as RCinNC suggests. Luckily this isn't a canbus bike, so tracking back the starter wiring, relays & fuses is old school, with a multi-meter.

BTW, never assume anything when it comes to dealers - you need to check for recalls, service modifications/bulletins. I think there were three in all for a 2013, the most important being the harness. Call the dealer, or Yamaha CS & give them the VIN for a full check - there may even be an on-line checker for the US?

 

[Tenman]

At 60k miles my starter solenoid died. It never gave a click like they usually do.

 

[Michelada]

Monday morning update! Thanks @Squibb @Tenman @Boris and @RCinNC All the fuses are good and I performed the Starter Motor operation Test on Page 8-149 of the manual. Lots of sparks! Then I used a screwdriver to make a bridge across the terminals and heard the starter "kick" for a brief moment. So, I've determined that it must be a bad the starter relay.
I've ordered one via Amazon.com for $9.15 and will receive it on Tuesday, 4/25/23. Hopefully, my last question...
ChatGPT tells me that the starter relay part # for a 2013 Super Tenere is 4SV-81940-00-00. The only one I was able to order is 4XE-81940-00-00. The part #'s are virtually identical, but the terminals seem to be reversed and the new starter relay has a "B" and a "M" which the old starter relay does not. I'm hoping the new starter relay comes with basic instructions, but any comments?
Thanks and please check out the pictures. Sincerely, Michelada

 

[bimota]

my starter failed or was rusty getting the click click on and off over a 2 year period, on my 2013 gen 1 there about £80 from yamaha, i put this £29 one off ebay on 6 months ago has the B and M on it as well straight swop for original been great

Starter Motor Relay Solenoid Yamaha XT 1200 ZA Super Tenere ABS 23PF 2013 | eBay

STARTER RELAY as per photo. HEAVY DUTY STARTER RELAYS. these units must be fitted by a competent. Get Social. from IBL. Buy the best at the best price. We have these made to the highest standards. Machine Listed in the Title.

www.ebay.co.uk

rob

 

[Michelada]

Thanks @bimota My concern is that the terminals seem to be reversed. On the old one, the bottom terminal has an extra piece that drops down into the relay. On the new one, with the "B" and "M" that extra piece is on the top terminal. Hopefully, the new one will come with instructions. I'm hoping it's a straight swap, as you mention. Thanks again!

 

[bimota]

Thanks @bimota My concern is that the terminals seem to be reversed. On the old one, the bottom terminal has an extra piece that drops down into the relay. On the new one, with the "B" and "M" that extra piece is on the top terminal. Hopefully, the new one will come with instructions. I'm hoping it's a straight swap, as you mention. Thanks again!

that picture of the one you bought has that extra piece going to the B part same as the one in my picture that i bought for £29 and it went stright on my 2013 in the same position my oem came off and its fine

rob

 

[bimota]

right,

just been in the garage as i have still got the oem solenoid that came off my 2013 bike and wow its on the other side like the one you removed, but my new one in the picture as shown like yours is on the other side lol, i did not even notice that i took my oem off put the new one on and bang fired first click with no issues plus its been on for 6-7 months so your fine

rob

 

[Michelada]

Thanks @bimota! Appreciate the quick responses! Hilarious that you didn't notice the minor change and relieved to here that you've had no issues for 6-7 months. Sincerely, Michelada.

 

[bimota]

lol, yep opened the post took the old one off put this one on, pressed the button instead of click click it went bang fired first time and has done ever since, it was advertised as a xt1200 looked the same shape lol didn,t notice that clip

rob

 

[Michelada]

Replaced the starter relay and all I hear are clicks! I feel like I'm so close!! When I press the starter a few times I get d63 Er_4 and later saw d70 Er_4 which I'm assuming is: "Er-4 - Non-registered data has been received from the meter."

 

[RCinNC]

I bet your battery voltage is too low.

 

[Michelada]

I bet your battery voltage is too low.

I bet your battery voltage is too low.

I wish that was the case @RCinNC but I have it on a tender (which curiously shows that the battery is charging.) 13.46V with the tender unplugged, 13.51V with the tender plugged into the battery.

 

[RCinNC]

Just to take the bike battery out of the equation for troubleshooting, you could try jump starting the bike from a different battery. You can use your car battery; just don't turn the car on.

 

[Michelada]

Just to take the bike battery out of the equation for troubleshooting, you could try jump starting the bike from a different battery. You can use your car battery; just don't turn the car on.

@RCinNC I'll give that a try! Thanks