Does this brake disc need to be replaced?

bigbob

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snakebitten said:
Could just mean I don't charge as hard as I sometimes think? Lol
So the guy who took a totally beautiful bike down a hill, in front of Steve who had absolutely no back brakes, is not charging?

You getting old?

See you in Romney.


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Sckill

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I had this same issue on my 2012 S10. The rear caliper was sticking and the rear pads were toast after 2K miles. The pads wore into the rotor slightly, but all it needed was some sandpaper to the rotor and new pads and things were fine. In addition, there's a new part # for the rear caliper piston and seals. I replaced mine and noticed an immediate difference with the rear brake no longer dragging.
 

RCinNC

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Hi, Sckill, and thanks. I don't think mine were sticking (I did get 15,000 miles out of my brake pads). I did go out the other day and sand the rotors with some 220 grit sandpaper. The new EBC pads should arrive today, so it'll be interesting to see how it all works out.
 

RCinNC

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I put the new pads on this morning and tested them out; even without being bedded in yet, they stop pretty well.

There's a slight amount of drag on the pads. Is that normal for new EBC pads? This is my first time using them, so I don't have a baseline for what's correct and what's not.
 

Dogdaze

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Hi RC, there will always be a tiny amount of drag, by the very nature of non-pressurised hydraulic systems, especially on new pads, should be able to spin the wheel by hand and get 2-3 revolutions without stopping.
 

RCinNC

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I don't get anywhere near that much, Dogdaze. Maybe just shy of one revolution before it stops. I cleaned and relubed the brake caliper pins, lubed the ends of the brake pads where they fit into the little guide springs, and cleaned the brake piston (I even partially extended it, cleaned it with a nylon rope soaked in brake cleaner, then pressed it back into the caliper).

The brake caliper pins don't have any rough spots on them that would cause the pads to hook up.
 

Dogdaze

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Did you open the fluid reservoir after pressing it back? Just to remove the excess air gap that will place a small amount of pressure on the piston, but take the pins out again and really clean them up, even a small amount of grit will cause them to snag the pads, use copper grease sparingly on the pins.... then ride a few times and see what happens.
 

RCinNC

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OK, I did open both brake fluid reservoirs, and a tiny bit of pressurized air escaped from both. Checked the pins again, too. It didn't change the amount of drag; the tire still spins about once and then stops. I have an appointment this afternoon that is about a 30 mile round trip, so I'll test ride it and see if that makes any difference.
 

RCinNC

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I'll call it job finished. Took it for a ride, and everything seems ok. No heat in either the rotor or the caliper when I got home, no heat discoloration on the rotor, and the brakes work normally. The drag is less now too.

So, thank you to everyone for their help and expertise.
 

2daMax

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I got this too after failing to change or notice the rear pads was wearing out. I checked it sometime ago and it was ok but it does wear thin very quickly. Rotor's got chewed from raw back plate scrubbing. Rode like a grandma to the shop and avoiding the rear brake from linked action from the front levers.

Sent it to a shop and they found a oem replacement, I think it is semi-metallic from the looks of it. Wouldn't want sintered HH type as they wear downs the rotor faster. Could not find Yamaha original. OEM pads seems a lot thicker. Installed, and got home to inspect. Felt restrictive from the free wheeling on the double stand. Hmmmm....check the reservoir - yes it is over the top. No space for expansion. Bleed out to correct levels. Test the free wheeling and appears to be back to normal.

Now I hope the pads will skim back the rotor to some smoothness.
 
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