DIY Super Tenere Enlarged Fuel Tank

Ron Earp

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Well, I figured the larger Super T fuel tank isn't going to ever be produced so I talked to my local paint guy Fred about fabbing a tank up and he was up for the challenge. I generally would do it myself but I'm restoring my old 1985 5L Mustang with my daughter and we're under the gun to get that done (http://www.gt40s.com/forum/wings-wheels-keels/49929-back-future-ron-sydneys-1985-5l-mustang-build-3.html).

I got a 2015 tank with a small dent and marked it up for expansion in a similar fashion as some of these I've seen people build on the web. Fred sectioned it and took some liberty to make it a bit larger than others we'd seen.



Doh got to run more later.
 

RCinNC

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I don't want to be rude, but can you give a ballpark idea of what something like this costs? I'm just down the road from you, and if I ever decided to do something like this, it's good to know there's a fabricator relatively close by that has the skills to accomplish it.
 

Ron Earp

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Looks like hell doesn't it? But it grinds down nicely. He preferred the MIG over the TIG because it takes forever and you can always make it pretty.



Checking size to make sure it clears plastic.



One side done.



Ground down, skimmed, and painted. It was skimmed with high content fiberglass filler which is a bit of a pain but it won't have any troubles down the road. The inside of the tank was coated with the POR fuel tank coating to keep the welds etc from rusting.







It really looks great in person. If course I am going to wrap it but Fred still painted it extremely well. As for doing more of them he said he would if local, he doesn't want to mess with shipping these things, but its time intensive and expensive. $1200 all done, paint whatever color you need etc. He does good work and is fast, he was about two weeks start to finish on this.

Maybe these pics will help someone do their own. It's definitely a job I could do myself, I would have probably TIGed it, but I've got too much stuff happening in the garage and my first moto trip of the year is coming up in two weeks. I wanted the tank for the trip, plus, I'd have to take it to Fred for paint anyhow since I don't do paint. But, I do wrap and will wrap this as the rest of the bike.

I'll report back on first fill up. I'm hoping we get an even 8 gallons from it but we'll see.
 

SilverBullet

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Very nice! Can't wait to see a photo of it installed on the bike and to know the max capacity. Too rich for my blood but nice to know there are options out there.
 

WJBertrand

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Did you remove the annoying plate in the filler neck while you were at it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Ron Earp

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No two ways about it, this isn't cheap. I bought 2015 red ES tank with dent for $175. Paid Fred $1k for the work to enlarge it, so I'm in the job for $1175. Now, I have my pristine 2015 ES red tank that has been wrapped since the bike had 4k on it. Tank is absolutely perfect. I should be able to get $300 for it I'd think. So, if I can sell it for decent money then this job cost me around $875. Not cheap.

But, I can't see buying a larger tank for much of anything under $800. If that company we were lobbying would/could produce a plastic tank I'm sure they'd want $800 for it.
 

EricV

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Very nice Ron. ::008:: I look forward to reading what your new capacity is.

As someone else that went through this process, I can add a few comments. Welding thin wall steel is tough. Grinding the welds after can easily result in pin hole leaks, which adds to the fun of checking for leaks and re-welding, re-grinding, etc. Not everyone is up to the art of welding thin wall materials.

My expanded tank follows the same lines as Ron's. I have a capacity of 8.2 gallons. I did a few things different, which partially comes down to the fabricator I used and partially my background in industrial manufacturing. I chose not to coat the inside. OEM tanks are not coated. Paint can be expensive. I chose to have the tank coated with LineX which is gas proof and more durable than paint. (I checked the tank with gas for leaks prior to having it coated with LineX on the outside. The LineX is also a secondary leak filler, but wasn't necessary for that purpose, at least when the tank was new.) It's not a look everyone would care for though. I'm very much a function guy. ;D My tank ended up costing about $1100 total. Buying a used tank in good condition, paying a fabricator $600 to strip, expand and weld. leak check, etc and another $220 to have it primed and coated with the premium LineX at a local shop. All of these costs are variable.

Just finding someone to do the welding is not as simple as it sounds. It's a challenging and time consuming job. Most of the welder/fabricator people I've talked to that have done this did not fully recognize how challenging and time consuming it would be. My fabricator said he wouldn't consider doing another one for less than $1000 and I suspect he would charge more than that. And that's just his cost, not the cost of paint or buying the donor tank. If you buy a dented tank, add some time to fix the dents too. I was fortunate to have a strait up fab guy that stuck to his original cost quote, though it took him 2 months to finish the tank, not the two weeks he originally though it would take. I didn't press him on the time line until a month had passed. I didn't have a pressing trip coming up, so could accept the relaxed time line.

Because of the process of sectioning the tank and raising the top, the two metal vent lines inside the tank need to be lengthened. My guy had some ideas, but I pointed him in a different direction, removing the brazed in oem lines completely and replacing them with new metal lines fabricated from steel automotive fuel or brake line. This made it easy to source the lines and easy to bend. Re-attaching them to the tank was more challenging for him. Brazing is not as common as it used to be and the heat from welding can impact the brazing.

Note: If the new lines stick out the bottom of the tank more than the oem ones did, then the hoses will bind when you try to set the tank down in the frame. I had to trim mine a bit as the fab guy left them a bit longer than stock.

I've had my tank in use for a while w/o issues. 300 mile range plus reserve. I think I have seen 320 or so a few times before reserve. It meets my current needs of matching the range of my wife's '16 BMW GSA with it's 7.9 gallon tank. She gets slightly better mpg than I do, (maybe it's S mode, or just my wrist?). I still miss the 11+ gallons I used to have sometimes. All in all, mounting a fuel cell to add to your range is cheaper than building an expanded OEM tank. Each method has benefits.

Another cautionary note; Watch your handlebar clearance if you build an expanded tank. It's very easy to end up blocking the bar swing. Mine works fine with my Rox 2" risers, but would not work with stock height bars. I knew that during the fab process, so considered and accepted this aspect of my build. There are things I would have altered in the design to make it more attractive, but it works like I wanted it to work, so I have no regrets in the work done.

A Search for 'supertank' will find some photos of mine on this forum.

There is a thread on my custom 4.8 gal flat bed fuel cell here: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=5810.msg101554#msg101554

I too have a perfect red tank sitting in a box. I'm not selling mine though. Eventually when I move on, the stock tank will go back on the bike and the supertank will get sold. I've found it to be a lot better return on high mile bikes to put them back to stock before selling and sell the farkles separately.
 

RCinNC

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I actually didn't think $1200 was out of line, especially with paint included. A plastic tank, assuming anyone ever made one, would probably be pretty close to that price, especially considering how few of them they'd ever sell. Your guy has a lot of skill, and the final product looks really good.
 

Ron Earp

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Good write up Eric. I forgot to mention the internal lines, Fred did the same thing in mine. He put new lines in and brazed them in place. Leak checked them separately.

I'm going to need some risers too, pretty sure. Are Rox risers good quality pieces and where can you get them?
 

EricV

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Ron Earp said:
Good write up Eric. I forgot to mention the internal lines, Fred did the same thing in mine. He put new lines in and brazed them in place. Leak checked them separately.

I'm going to need some risers too, pretty sure. Are Rox risers good quality pieces and where can you get them?
The Rox risers are a good quality piece. I've had shorter ones before on my 2012 Super Ten that I liked a lot. Install, adjust where you like them, then forget about them because they don't need attention again unless you want to change something. ::001::

I think I bought mine from Twisted Throttle, but many different vendors sell them. Be aware that there are two styles for the Super Ten. The Gen I bikes could take the generic fit any bike kind, but the Gen II bikes need the version listed specifically for the Gen II Super Tenere because the angles of the factory risers require a longer spud in the Rox risers to be fully secure. If the description lists the risers as having the extended stem on bottom portion for models with angled handlebar, then they should be the correct ones for the Gen II bikes. The standard 1 1/8" to 1 1/8" pivot risers will work in a pinch, but the lower stems don't go all the way through the angled risers on the Gen II OEM risers.

I found that I could follow the AltRider guidelines for their Super Tenere riser install kit and use my own bits and that worked just fine w/o buying longer brake and clutch lines. No chafing so far in 10k or riding on and off pavement.

Here is the Altrider page for the Rox risers I used: LINK

The same page has a link to the install kit at the bottom LINK It has a nice you tube vid on doing it that made it easy for me to use the stuff I already had in my garage to do the same thing. A quick trip to any auto parts store would source the necessary bits. Even Lowes or Home Depot or Ace would have the items needed. No real need to pay AltRider $5 for their kit, though that's pretty reasonable for people not mechanically inclined that just want it to come with the risers when buying them.

A note: If you feel the bars are too flexible with the tall risers, first double check that the OEM riser mounting bolts are tight. I found mine a tad loose. Second, if it still bothers you, add a metal flat washer to the bottom under the bolts and re-tighten, it will take up a little of the flex. I did not feel it was necessary to do the washer trick, but others have. I like the Gen II risers for absorbing a little more vibes than the Gen I solid ones. Just another little thing that makes the Gen II bikes smoother than the Gen I bikes.
 

Ron Earp

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Sheet, I didn't look at them that carefully. Yes, mine is a 2015 ES so 2nd Generation. Those blocks you list there look correct but not sure they'll ship from Germany. I'll check it out.
 

EricV

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Ron Earp said:
Sheet, I didn't look at them that carefully. Yes, mine is a 2015 ES so 2nd Generation. Those blocks you list there look correct but not sure they'll ship from Germany. I'll check it out.
They will ship from Germany. Lots of folks have bought stuff from them in the past. No issues, decent vendor. You will pay some exchange fee from your CC company for the purchase. Last guy I read about that bought those said it ran about $90 total to his door for those risers and took about 9 days from when he ordered to get them.

Note that they sell that same riser design for both Gen I and Gen II. I linked to the Gen II '14-on version. The other version lists for '10-13 specifically.
 

Ron Earp

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10-4, just bought from them using PayPal. Seems like decent quality stuff and fair price, just under $100 with shipping. Shouldn't require changing anything about the cable routing etc. but if it does not big deal.
 
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