Dash Infill ready

alvald83

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Jan 20, 2022
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16
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San Jose, California
I got my dash infill set with USB/USB-C plug, Switch for driving lights(white), Fog Lights (Yellow), for USB plugs in my top box(Red).. I am trying to decide where to install my aux. fuse block. Im steering towards under the upper right cowling. Im looking for advice on installing the panel. btw, the switches came with a single plug that i can install beforehand. Should i: 1. Install the wires with the switch connectors, then carefully and painfully (no space) try to connect switch plugs after the panel has been stalled. 2. wire and connect the switches on the panel then install the connected panel. Since both ways will be a challenge, i was hoping to get imput from others who have installed a panel.

Thanks Al
 

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Tamathumper

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Apr 27, 2022
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NC today, TN very soon
I just installed my fuse block, it is somewhat large, with LEDs to indicate blown fuses, and it has 12V in and out, and six connection points for circuits. I installed it in the lower right corner, under the lower panel, just ahead of the battery. There is a tubular screw boss there, and I cut one of the "wings" off it to buy myself a few more millimeters of space. It fits fine, I'm just wondering about exposure to moisture from the bottom side.
 

Banditryder

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Jul 19, 2021
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Pennsylvania
I just installed my fuse block, it is somewhat large, with LEDs to indicate blown fuses, and it has 12V in and out, and six connection points for circuits. I installed it in the lower right corner, under the lower panel, just ahead of the battery. There is a tubular screw boss there, and I cut one of the "wings" off it to buy myself a few more millimeters of space. It fits fine, I'm just wondering about exposure to moisture from the bottom side.
That's exactly where I'm thinking of fitting my Fuzeblock. Please send pics. And I share your concern about moisture, etc., from below.

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Tamathumper

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Apr 27, 2022
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NC today, TN very soon
Will send pics as soon as I get home, probably after 6 PM tonight. I attached the fuse block with a 2" square of 3M VHB tape, so it is removable, after a fashion.

I needed the two bolts that are exposed at the top to attach relays, one for the fuse block itself, and one for the aux lights I installed.

I'll be playing with different shields for the fuse block (the one that came with it was too thick, and interfered with the lower side cover when I tried to reinstall it), but it may be difficult to find something that provides shielding without also holding moisture in if it manages to get behind it.
 

Tamathumper

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Apr 27, 2022
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NC today, TN very soon
Here are photos of the Harbor Freight RoadShock spot lights, the Nilight mounts, the initial switch placement (to fill a hole left by the previous owner), and pics of the fuse box with cover on and off. I actually think the side cover may fit with that clear cover on now that I've got it seated more fully. I still need to put a 40 amp fuse on the red wire that powers the whole fuse block itself, and the entire fuse box is already powered by a separate relay that only comes on when the key is turned on, so I can't accidentally forget and leave the battery charger or lights or USB charger plugged in and kill the battery.

I've also ordered a handlebar switch, and I may rig up the current switch to "arm" the spot lights and use the high beam pink wire as a trigger to have them come on with the high beams (or not), or to come on with the second switch.
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Tamathumper

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Apr 27, 2022
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Location
NC today, TN very soon
Here is one way to wire it all up using two relays - one that powers the whole fuse box when it senses the bike ignition is "ON" (tapped from the fuses at the starter solenoid), and one that powers the auxiliary lights when it senses the high beams are "ON" (tapped from the pink wire in the harness underneath and outboard of the 12V accessory plug). This method passes only low power through the switch, unlike a lot of other diagrams I see that pass full power through the switch, which is risky with some of the eBay and Amazon junk that's out there.

In this picture, ignore "Switch 2" as it's not connected and this picture is only one version of several configurations I am considering at the moment. Also note that terminals on switches and relays may be different colors than I am showing, and/or may be in a different orientation or order than I am showing, so pin them out yourself to confirm Three pin switches are usually GND, ACC, +12V in that order (ACC in the middle), and I am showing ACC (as "++") on the right side for convenience... If you have a 4-pin relay, the pins marked 30, 85, 86, and 87 will be the same, the low current "Trigger" comes in 85 and out 86, while the high current comes in 30 and is switched on or off by the trigger, flowing out 87.

I'm not showing fuses in this diagram - but bear in mind the big red wire from the battery to the first relay's 30 pin should have a fuse on it to protect the wiring. Hope this helps someone.
Two Relays.png
 

bimota

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Dec 10, 2017
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6,524
Location
bridgend, Wales, UK
just fitted this added 6 accessorries to it wow plug and play so so easy

rob
 

alvald83

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Jan 20, 2022
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16
Location
San Jose, California
I finally got around to finishing my Fuse block, Dash fill and switches. My dash now has a double usb plug, driving lights switch, fog light switch, and a usb plug switch. i Put a switch for a usb plug that i mounted inside my top box, just because i want to turn it off when im not using it. Each switch is lighted, white/driving, Yellow/Amber Fog, Red for top box. I also installed my Oxford heated grips.
 

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Banditryder

Active Member
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Jul 19, 2021
Messages
192
Location
Pennsylvania
Nice work. I installed my Fuzeblock in the same place but it affects the side case fit at the lower right. I'm going to see if the section of the tool kit space it's mounted on can be relieved to give some more room. Only need about 1/2". Concerns about weatherproofing arise, as well.

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