Cruise Control Problem 2016 Super Tenere

mebgardner

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Tucson AZ
AKBob said:
Mine has recently started to cancel even while I'm at highway speed in cruise control with no touching of any controls. If you are sleepy it will surely wake you up when it cancels at 65mph. You also don't really want anybody riding on your tail when the cruise control cancels at highway speed.
The clutch and brake CC circuit switches are somewhat sensitive to being vibrated, or jarred, by bumps. I say "somewhat" because I notice that, although my levers being "jiggled" by me while I have CC engaged does not cause the CC to disengage, I notice that it required *very* little pull on the brake or clutch levers for my CC to disengage. I can just barely touch them rearward, and CC will disengage on my cycle.

I believe this is due to the mechanical stackup of the clearances from the point of the lever that moves the switch, to the mechanical switch movement (the switch assembly mechanism that levers the electrical contacts). Those clearances stack up in such a manner that it requires very little movement of the brake / clutch lever to move the mechanical switch assembly. So, you barely bump it (a clutch / brake lever), and you move the switch to cause a switch contacts "bounce".

It's extremely unlikely it's the ECU in your case.
 

Powershouse

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Aug 16, 2017
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My flashing amber cc light was just fixed by replacing the front brake switch. Repair covered under YES warranty program.
 

AKBob

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OK in the "For What It's Worth" department, my cruise control blinking (literally) problem seems to be resolved. I narrowed the problem down to either the ECU, but more likely the front wheel speed sensor circuit feeding the ECU. Yamaha has been no help at all, nor my dealership although I'm convinced they tried to get Yamaha to react.

I needed to replace the front and rear tires on my 2016 Tenere last week for a ride from Anchorage to Valdez and back last weekend. While the front tire was off, I thought I'd check the speed sensor and give it a thorough cleaning and inspection. It is a very weak magnet so it wouldn't take much to interrupt the signal. The shop guy cleaned it thoroughly with Brake Clean. I started out the next day for the 300+ mile ride to Valdez with lots of braking stopping and restarting the bike, mountain passes, altitude changes, high speed and slow, using the cruise control for much of the day which was a beautiful, bluebird clear day, some of the way in the mid 80s. It was such an enjoyable ride that I forgot to notice the cruise control never failed once all the way to Valdez.

On the return ride the next day, same thing. Not one blinking cruise light, not one having to stop and restart the engine to clear the problem. In all, I put near 800 miles on the bike over the two days, had almost terminal monkey butt, but the cruise control worked perfectly.

I'm not sure if this is an anomaly or a real fix, but I'm believing it was nothing but perhaps some dirt and a film of calcium chloride over the sensor (commonly used for dust control on gravel roads up here). If you have not tried to thoroughly clean the speed sensor pickup and rotor, please give it a try and report back in. It may be just that simple.

Ride safe.
 

AKBob

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No trolling anybody intended, but per Occam's Razor, the simplest answer is often the correct one. Before spending money replacing parts just try a thorough cleaning of the front wheel speed sensor parts. I put about 800 miles on the bike after the cleaning, much of it over rough roads, and not a single blink. I'll keep track of it and report back if/when the problem reoccurs and if another cleaning works.

It is possible that there is more than one source sending a false signal back to the ECU, but so far so good with just a simple, thorough cleaning.
 

raynchk

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In line with my policy of 'do no harm' all I did was spray the front brake lever and rear brake switch with silicone. I'm reasonably sure that did absolutely no good, but I've got about 400 miles on the bike without a glitch. Maybe the cruise control gremlin has moved on..
 

fredz43

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AKBob said:
No trolling anybody intended, but per Occam's Razor, the simplest answer is often the correct one. Before spending money replacing parts just try a thorough cleaning of the front wheel speed sensor parts. I put about 800 miles on the bike after the cleaning, much of it over rough roads, and not a single blink. I'll keep track of it and report back if/when the problem reoccurs and if another cleaning works.

It is possible that there is more than one source sending a false signal back to the ECU, but so far so good with just a simple, thorough cleaning.
I think you are correct in your last statement, there are evidently more than 1 malfunctions of auxiliary equipment that can cause the cc malfunction. Did you have a code with yours? Mine and several others showed a 090 code and as I understand it, that refers to a malfunction of one of the permissive switches (2 brakes, 1 clutch), but doesn't indicate which of these switches it is. The front brake switch was replaced under YES and I have about 4500 trouble free miles since then.
 

prowlnS10

2014 ES
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My 2014 ES (23k kms) first displayed the blinking cc light 2 months ago randomly & intermittently & would resolve itself thru restarting the bike, restoring functionality...but never any error code. My 1st attempt to solve the problem was to check all switch adjustments & clean all switches with electronic cleaner (without disassembly) & abs sensors but during the next 2k km trip, a month later, it's occurrence increased, but still returning to functioning status after restarts. Still no error codes were stored, so this time I attempted to duplicate the issue by manually apply the front & rear brakes while on the center stand & not running & I got lucky & observed that the front brake switch would randomly stick in the on position (brake lights stay on) & generate a 090 error code (interesting because no error codes were displayed previously. This time I disassembled the front brake switch assembly to get access to the 2 micro switches inside that are operated by sequential paddles (cc switch 1st, followed by brake switch last)....cleaned them with cleaner while manually manipulating the switches hoping to get cleaner to the internals. NOTE: if you operate the brake micro switch independent of the cc micro switch an 090 error codes is generated, so it appears the bike diagnostics wants to see the 2 operate in correct sequence. ALSO NOTE: when reinstalling the micro switches into the assembly be sure to depress the protruding assembly actuating tab that interfaces with the brake lever BEFORE snapping the assembly cover/micro switches in place, to avoid contact with the actuating paddles! Otherwise you risk damaging or breaking off the protruding micro switch activation tab housed in the rubber boot. I thought I had snapped off the one on the brake switch....luckily I was able to reinsert into the micro switch restoring function. The brake switch assembly is $184 Canadian & the clutch assembly is $230, both special order from Japan with 2-3 weeks eta...yikes! So far so good, no more flashing cc light or sticking brake light...but only a few 100 km of riding...will update if problem returns.

Front Stop Switch Assembly https://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/2bs-83980-00-00/front-stop-switch-assy

Superseded Clutch Switch https://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/1mc-82917-01-00/switch
 

raynchk

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In line with my policy of 'do no harm' all I did was spray the front brake lever and rear brake switch with silicone. I'm reasonably sure that did absolutely no good, but I've got about 400 miles on the bike without a glitch. Maybe the cruise control gremlin has moved on..
Same problem this afternoon. First time it happened, I checked the brake light and it was on. Rear brake wouldn't de-activate it but front brake did. Next 2 or 3 times it happened brake light wasn't on. Going to try the dealer route tomorrow...
 

Riteris

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FWIW,

My bike was in the shop for about a month due to the engine check light.

Thankfully, I bought the used bike with the YES warranty.

It seems like there were throttle body issues that the mechanic mentioned but did not write up in the final report.

What he did write up were the t- connections I installed on the throttle bodies. He said they were done improperly. (I installed them because of issues with the throttle bodies and the need to run a manometer.)

He also mentioned the aftermarket side-stand plate was causing codes to come up. He rode the bike with the sidestand wired up and no issues.

So, this MIGHT be one more thing to check out when diagnosing the engine check light.
 

EricV

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FWIW,
<snip>
What he did write up were the t- connections I installed on the throttle bodies. He said they were done improperly. (I installed them because of issues with the throttle bodies and the need to run a manometer.)

He also mentioned the aftermarket side-stand plate was causing codes to come up. He rode the bike with the sidestand wired up and no issues.

So, this MIGHT be one more thing to check out when diagnosing the engine check light.
Doubtful on both counts, but possible. I've had T connections on the left TB for over 100k miles and the only thing that ever occurred was the cap rotting out and leaking. New vacuum cap, issue solved. I personally found no need for a T connection on the right side TB. That vacuum cap is accessible.

On the side stand enlarger, what brand are you using?

I've been using AltRider's version for 130k+ on two different Super Tens w/o issues. Enough weight and I can see where it might present an issue. Or mounted in such a manner that it doesn't allow full retraction of the side stand. Otherwise, seems like someone is stretching and blaming the customer instead of finding the issue.
 

Riteris

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The mechanic did manage to find the issue... whatever it was.

I am just passing on what I was told. I don't know why he would tell me a story about the sidestand foot causing an issue. (I was not charged for these repairs.)

I do not know what brand the foot is for the sidestand as the guy I bought the bike installed it. (I was not able to find it on line in my brief search.) It is a substantial bit of aluminum though.
 

EricV

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The mechanic did manage to find the issue... whatever it was.

I am just passing on what I was told. I don't know why he would tell me a story about the sidestand foot causing an issue. (I was not charged for these repairs.)

I do not know what brand the foot is for the sidestand as the guy I bought the bike installed it. (I was not able to find it on line in my brief search.) It is a substantial bit of aluminum though.
And thank you for passing on what you were told.

The side stand foot sounds like a Ride On ADV product from your description.
 

fred-houston

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Sep 23, 2015
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TeXaS
I recently had my CC indicator light start flashing. Sometimes when I started the bike there would be no flashing, but I noticed that after I applied the front brake sometimes it would start flashing. For the most part I have not see a code, but this morning on one attempt I did see a code 90 once.

I messed with it in the garage, and found that if I applied the brake several times in a row the CC indicator light would start flashing and the rear brake light would stay on. I did remove the switch from the handlebar and cleaned it and put some lube on it. It appears to be working correctly now, but I am still thinking about just replacing the switch.

It is easy to remove it from the bar, but how difficult is it to get to the harness plug?

Thanks
 

pooh and xtine

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I had just the same symptoms with cruise so I changed my front brake light switch a couple of weeks ago. You need to remove the lower and upper right side panels to route the cable and get to the plug. It’s easy to do - the cable ties can be loosened and retightened.
 
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