Could we check valves by sound?

Checkswrecks

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I don't see anything about timing the engine on this bike. What am I missing here? There is only one timing position on this motor. Pretty simple. Align the K mark of the pickup coil to crankcase mating surface, align intake cam to the cam cap mark, then make sure intake/exhaust cam sprockets marks line up to cylinder head surface. When all three match up then the engine is perfectly timed. If they don't match up then simply rotate crank 360 degrees. The marks do not have to be easily seen. I always use my own colored marker to mark the embedded lines from the factory.

I see nowhere in the service manual where you have the option of using a degree wheel on this engine? Nor do I see anything about timing it? I would think that's opening up a bag of worms on this bike. Pretty common on the thumpers but I'm not sure I would attempt trying to advance/retard cam timing on this bike.
LOL - Welcome out of KLR-Land and to modern electronic engine controls. ;) As you found, get the cams and crank aligned with the chain and everything else is held where it needs to be.
 

EricV

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I believe EricV was talking about setting cam timing when removing the cams to set valve clearance, not adjusting timing.
That was markjenn, and you are correct.

Most of the twin cam motors I've seen had factory marks for cam timing alignment for both exhaust and intake on the same cam sprocket. Same part for both camshafts. Just different dowel pin alignment on the end of the camshaft.

I once had a customer tow a Miata in to my shop that wouldn't run. He had done his own timing belt change and replaced some HLAs during that process, requiring the removal of the camshafts. Everything was lined up just fine at the cams, but the car wouldn't start or run.

He had installed the cam gears and set them to the timing marks with the engine out of phase. I asked him a lot of questions once I realized what work he had done himself. After that I just checked the crank timing marks and pulled the belt off to re-set things. Non-interference engine, luckily for the owner. No damage and it fired right up.
 
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ballisticexchris

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LOL - Welcome out of KLR-Land and to modern electronic engine controls. ;) As you found, get the cams and crank aligned with the chain and everything else is held where it needs to be.
This engine is pretty much the same as my Ninja 650 as far as valve adjustment. And just one cylinder more than my Beta. Looks to be a straight forward procedure. But time consuming as well.

I will decide when the time comes whether I will do it myself or have it done. More than likely I will end up doing it. I figure my clutch pack will need to be removed and inspected at the same time.
 

EricV

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I figure my clutch pack will need to be removed and inspected at the same time.
I try not to be sucked into the stinky bait, but fine, you got me. Why do you believe you will need to remove and inspect your clutch pack at 26k miles? Or even 52k miles? Do you slip the clutch a lot?
 
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ballisticexchris

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I try not to be sucked into the stinky bait, but fine, you got me. Why do you believe you will need to remove and inspect your clutch pack at 26k miles? Or even 52k miles? Do you slip the clutch a lot?
I hold my clutch in at stoplights. You have to do your valve adjustment anyway. Not to mention the clutch rod wear. And I’m a firm believer of maintaining my machines even if they are reliable.
 

EricV

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I hold my clutch in at stoplights. You have to do your valve adjustment anyway. Not to mention the clutch rod wear. And I’m a firm believer of maintaining my machines even if they are reliable.
Ok, you may need to replace the clutch rod(s) eventually, but your clutch plates will be fine for oh... the life of the bike. Baring an abusive incident. It's not necessary to remove the clutch plates to replace the clutch rods.

And its not necessary to even remove the clutch cover to check the valve clearance, as far as I can tell. To re-shim, yes, but only the valve cover needs ro come off, (along with everything necessary to access that), to check the valve clearance.

And yes, I do understand some have replaced the clutch plates and pressure plate. Occasionally that's for wear/damage, but mostly it's for preference.
 
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