Coolant Change the easy way

OCto?

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Mar 5, 2018
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Oregon
Did my coolant change recently following this tutorial. (Thanks, btw)
Today was out and it was warmish, showing a high of 104* on the dash. I parked in the driveway to open the garage. Tenere was on the sidestand. Noticed it was puking coolant out of the overflow on the reservoir bottle. When I got it in the garage on the centerstand, no more emesis and level looks good on the marks for hot on the catch bottle. What are thoughts? Air bubble? (Temp never did anything weird, ran up to fan temp in slow traffic but ran 170-180* out and about, even with the heat returning from the coast.)
 

Eville Rich

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Sep 15, 2016
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Wisconsin, USA
In some parts of the US (you should check yours), coolant can go down the drain and get treated at the wastewater treatment plant. That was the case when I lived in Madison, WI. Now I live with a septic system and there's no way I'd send coolant down the drain. So check with your local municipality, but don't assume it's OK to send it down the sewer. And DO NOT send it into a septic system.

I've started taking my coolant to work, which is connected to Madison WI treatment plant. The guidance is to use an indoor drain (not storm water drain) to make sure it gets to the treatment plant.

Hope this helps,
Eville Rich
2016 S10
 

Niterunnr

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Irvine, CA
From owner’s manual
Cooling system:Coolant reservoir capacity (up to themaximum level mark):0.26 L (0.27 US qt, 0.23 Imp.qt)
Radiator capacity (including all routes):1.83 L (1.93 US qt, 1.61 Imp.qt)
It says to have the shop change coolant every three years; does not state type or compatibility.
Does the maintenance manual specify compatible coolant properties?
Would any car coolant from wallyworld or parts store that is phosphate and silicate free be safe to use?
 

bimota

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first coolant change i did was 6 yrs, i changed the hoses to samco hoses the same time, now 2 yrs on again, i,m doing a coolant change again,
as i had to drain the system to replace the rusty front coolant pipe.

rob
 

Checkswrecks

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From owner’s manual
...
It says to have the shop change coolant every three years; does not state type or compatibility.
Does the maintenance manual specify compatible coolant properties?
Would any car coolant from wallyworld or parts store that is phosphate and silicate free be safe to use?
From the MX Manual:

"Use only distilled water..."

"High-quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion inhibitors for aluminum engines
Mixing ratio
1:1 (antifreeze-water)
Do not mix different types of antifreeze."

So your answer is yes to Wallyworld with the restrictions you described.
 

Jlq1969

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May 5, 2018
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Argentina
This is my 2nd coolant change for the bike and I thought I will document the procedures here with pictures. Caution: Do it when the Radiator is cool at room temperature.

Here are the Tools and Fluids I am using:
1. Toyota Long Life Coolant, 1L - safe for all Japanese vehicles (something about no phosphates and silicates that can destroy seals in the water pumps)
2. Motul MoCool - 5% per total radiator volume. Improves heat removal.
3. Measuring cup: Since I live in the tropics, freezing is something I don't get so I am going with a 30% Coolant, 5% MoCool and 65% Water (filtered soft). The higher the water content, the better the cooling efficiency it gets.
4. Total volume of radiator, expansion tank, all routes: 1.9L




Start off with removing these 3 screws.


Now you can access the Radiator Cap.



Open up the Drain plug with a 8mm Socket Hex tool bit. Collect the coolant with a bucket.


Inspect the cap for rust or damage or build up. This one looks healthy so there is no need for a Radiator cleaning service.


Place a funnel on the intake and flush the radiator with water (tap water in my country is soft. If the water source is hard which contains minerals, then it is better to flush it with RO, DeIonized Water, battery water etc. Minerals in hot water = precipitation forming on hot metal surfaces. Flushed as many times until the exit water is clear. I did about 3 liters of water to clear it.


Now, onto the Expansion tank. I use a pump from a Body Gel bottle. Pumped out as much as possible. May add in fresh water and pump out a 2nd time.


Close up the drain plug.


Fill in the Mixture of Coolant/Water via this funnel. It takes about 1.7L to fill the radiator to the brim. The other 200ml would be to the Expansion tank.


Remove the funnel to expose the intake. Carefully pour into the intake, slowly so that it doesn't spill out but allows the excess to flow into the Expansion tank via a small black rubber hose connected at the intake. Fill in until the Expansion tank is full.


Fill until the expansion tank is full. Closed up the Radiator Cap fully. Warm up the bike and check for leaks and add in if insufficient as indicated by the expansion tank levels.
And what did you perceive when using Mocool?….
 

Jlq1969

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It's hard to judge for MoCool since I have never tried without MoCool to have a good comparison.
I'm not sure how it improves heat transfer…. Once the thermostat is opened, “supposedly”, there is no better liquid that allows heat transfer than water itself. Refrigerants worsen that transfer (but prevent freezing, and stretch the boiling point)...But I don't know how this Mocool works, I have only read that it prevents the air bubbles formation (which impoverish heat transfer), …Maybe that's doesn't see in hot water circulating in a circuit...the bubbles, maybe if the hose were transparent, we would see bubbles instead of liquid water
 

2daMax

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Penang, Malaysia
I'm not sure how it improves heat transfer…. Once the thermostat is opened, “supposedly”, there is no better liquid that allows heat transfer than water itself. Refrigerants worsen that transfer (but prevent freezing, and stretch the boiling point)...But I don't know how this Mocool works, I have only read that it prevents the air bubbles formation (which impoverish heat transfer), …Maybe that's doesn't see in hot water circulating in a circuit...the bubbles, maybe if the hose were transparent, we would see bubbles instead of liquid water
I think it works by improving the 'wetting' at the surface making it more effective as more surface area is somewhat 'connected' to remove more heat from the blocks and release more heat at the radiator. I can predict that as a result of this, depending on the scenarios: (Temps measured at coolant temp sensor)

1. Cruising constantly: Will be cooler.
2. Riding slow and stuck in traffic: Will heat up quicker due to less cooling at the radiator but cools faster when the fan kicks in.
3. Pickup speed from Scenario 2 : Temps will drop quicker.
 

PachmanP

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Apr 20, 2016
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DC
Thanks. Super helpful.

Do folks tend to replace the copper washer for the drain? I didn't but TBD if I have a leak...
 

RCinNC

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Aug 30, 2014
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North Carolina
Thanks. Super helpful.

Do folks tend to replace the copper washer for the drain? I didn't but TBD if I have a leak...
I have replaced mine when I did coolant changes, mainly because out of all the other crush washers on the S10, the darn coolant drain was the only one I've encountered that actually leaked when I tried to reuse it.
 

2daMax

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Jun 3, 2015
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Penang, Malaysia
I had to use the white plumber's tape on the drain bolt after it was leaking (very little but always wet). 3rd time re-using the washer. Good thing is that with the radiator cap shut tight, not much coolant flowed out when the drain bolt was removed. So it was easy to wrap the bolt with the tape and placed it back in.
 
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