Clutch basket upgrade parts?

Klye

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Hi. I'm looking at doing the clutch basket upgrade soon. Is there anything else i need other than the new basket (primary gear) and new clutch cover gasket? Or that would be good to replace while open?
 

Boris

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I’ve done mine. I wouldn’t change anything else, just the basket.
Some change the main nut, I re-used mine and would re-use again. The gasket on mine was fine to use again, but probably best to have one spare, just in case.
I have an online how to do guide if you need it, just let me know.
 

Klye

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I’ve done mine. I wouldn’t change anything else, just the basket.
Some change the main nut, I re-used mine and would re-use again. The gasket on mine was fine to use again, but probably best to have one spare, just in case.
I have an online how to do guide if you need it, just let me know.
Any tips for the job? I know youtube has 1 or 2 good vids on it.
 

~TABASCO~

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Its pretty easy.

I would suggest you replace #24-25-26 (about $20) on the parts page. Also you dont need to but I would suggest adding a Barnett pressure plate to the clutch. Better feel, much stronger clamping on the pack, and can have your plates last longer. Outside gasket, many will say you don't need it (I guess its personal)... While tightening the nut you will need a basket holder or a soft piece of copper or aluminum to bind into the gears so you can torque the center bolt. It does call for the use of a brand new center nut. (22) I would but (personal choice)...

Be a bit careful removing and re installing the anti chatter spring in the rear of the basket. Getting it out is not that hard really but re installing it can be a bit of a pain. Make sure the little ears are correct and the bottom is in the groove. Also, try and clock the plates just like the stock ones are clocked currently. Don't forget that the plates behind the anti chatter spring are different, dont get them mixed up in the wrong spot.

If you need any help just hit me up, I can walk you through any part of it...

Screen Shot 2022-05-11 at 12.45.10 PM.png
 

bimota

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Its pretty easy.

I would suggest you replace #24-25-26 (about $20) on the parts page. Also you dont need to but I would suggest adding a Barnett pressure plate to the clutch. Better feel, much stronger clamping on the pack, and can have your plates last longer. Outside gasket, many will say you don't need it (I guess its personal)... While tightening the nut you will need a basket holder or a soft piece of copper or aluminum to bind into the gears so you can torque the center bolt. It does call for the use of a brand new center nut. (22) I would but (personal choice)...

Be a bit careful removing and re installing the anti chatter spring in the rear of the basket. Getting it out is not that hard really but re installing it can be a bit of a pain. Make sure the little ears are correct and the bottom is in the groove. Also, try and clock the plates just like the stock ones are clocked currently. Don't forget that the plates behind the anti chatter spring are different, dont get them mixed up in the wrong spot.

If you need any help just hit me up, I can walk you through any part of it...

View attachment 91382
can i ask if you get a gen 2 basket for your gen 1 and you get new 24,25,26 as well and use the old plates as they don,t need changing can i ask where does the barnett pressure plate go and in the yamaha parts list for the clutch what part does it replace please

rob
 
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~TABASCO~

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Here is the Barnett with the six springs on the pressure plate. Yes, no matter what year bike, I suggest replacing the 24-25-26 while your in the clutch. The shaft will get a wear divot that effects the "feel" of the clutch. Its just worth the $20.. The stock plates "generally" last 100K miles.. When someone needs new plates I suggest stock with the use of the Barnett pressure plate. The Barnett also comes these days with 3-4 sets of springs for different lock-up pressure.





IMG_1946.jpg
 

Boris

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Any tips for the job? I know youtube has 1 or 2 good vids on it.
Its really pretty straightforward, no surprises. There’s are couple of dowels for locating the outer casing, they may stay on the bike or come away with the casing, make sure they don’t fall out and down into the open clutch area. As already mentioned, you’ll need a clutch holding tool, also a torque wrench that goes to 125nm. Note, you don’t need to drain the oil and the job is best done on the side stand.

Here’s the guide, has all you need and a little that you don’t. It’s very useful. I reckon 90 minutes tops to complete the job and it all makes sense as you work through it.

 
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Boris

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Its pretty easy.



Be a bit careful removing and re installing the anti chatter spring in the rear of the basket. Getting it out is not that hard really but re installing it can be a bit of a pain. Make sure the little ears are correct and the bottom is in the groove. Also, try and clock the plates just like the stock ones are clocked currently. Don't forget that the plates behind the anti chatter spring are different, dont get them mixed up in the wrong spot.
I don’t think the anti chatter spring and the plates behind it need removing for a basket change.
 

~TABASCO~

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I don’t think the anti chatter spring and the plates behind it need removing for a basket change.
They will need to be switched over to the new basket. Either the old parts switched over or new parts installed. 4-5-6-7-8 need to be installed in the new basket.



Screen Shot 2022-05-11 at 5.05.53 PM.png
 

Boris

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Still think they don’t. I can’t see in my minds eye where they sit, but am sure they aren’t part of the basket swap.E01C0DC4-ACA0-4B75-B732-F8A0667B42D8.jpeg
 

Klye

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Success! Clutch is buttery smooth now and no more vibrations in the 1K - 3K rpms range.
I replaced parts 22, 24, 25, 26 while I was in there. I could've reused the clutch boss nut if I wanted to though.
I reused the clutch cover gasket as it looked good and I didn't feel like scraping it off.
I didn't replace the plates and fibers, so it made this job easy. Didn't have to deal with the thin wire that retains the inner most plate, fiber, and dampener pieces.
Take your time and lay the parts out in order as you remove them. Re-install in reverse order.
Having a small in/lbs torque wrench helps a ton too for the 6 clutch boss bolts that hold the pressure plate.

I'm going to make a youtube video if time allows.
 

~TABASCO~

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Tabasco, Worked it out. The anti spring and odd plates remain attached to item 3 in your above post number 4. They won’t need touching if just changing the basket.

Cool... its been a little bit sense I did a basket swap... I just remember that I thought I needed to mess with it..... Thanks for the info !
 

Pozz

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An old motocross trick we done when having the clutch slip was to put one washer on each of the 6 springs on the basket. It always worked well with just a slight pull increase hardly noticeable.
 

WJBertrand

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An old motocross trick we done when having the clutch slip was to put one washer on each of the 6 springs on the basket. It always worked well with just a slight pull increase hardly noticeable.
That’ll work with a pressure plate that uses coil springs, such as the Barnett, but the stock Super Ténéré has a single diaphragm spring.


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OldRider

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Believe it or not, a bunch of us around here bought our clutch baskets for around $25 back in 2014 when the upgrade happened. Somehow Yamaha priced the baskets wrong and several of us took advantage of it before Yamaha added a few hundred dollars to the price. I was going to buy 20 baskets, but they raised the price before I got my order in.
 
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