Changing out Spark plugs

Checkswrecks · Jun 27, 2015

As Don wrote, it sounds like the rubber came off the bottom of the coil tower, which you can see in below and in the Post #20 video. It's not uncommon in overhead cam engines and the last time for me was doing plugs in my pickup. Unless it has a miss, I'd run the trip before risking the need to buy a new coil tower.

The Tenere's #1 plug especially has a history of collecting water and rusting down in the hole. If you do need to replace the plug, blow the hole out with compressed air, then squirt some silicone in there. Gently see if you can move the rubber boot at all with a pick to let the silicone get between the rubber and plug. Even if you can't do anything with the pick, let the silicone do it's soaking overnight. After that, you ought to be able to pry the boot off with the pick or with a mechanical finger. I've also seen where with thinner boots (not ours) the socket can then press the boot down far enough to get onto the plug flats with some pressure.

Don in Lodi · Jun 27, 2015

Redsoul said:
When you mention coil are you referring to the plug or maybe plug cap.

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Nope, referring to the coil. That rubber boot is an integral part of the coil assembly. We call these things coil-overs. No extra parts, one assembly. Pretty slick actually, unless it's on a Ford. Never seen one of these look like that image CW, the hard tower has always been one assembly. Some, like the Ford, have a full length rubber boot that plugs onto a shorter coil. The Ford boots are replaceable.

Dogdaze · Jun 27, 2015

Redsoul, as Don said, the coil IS the plug cap to use an old term, they integrate everything now.

Redsoul · Jun 27, 2015

Thanks for all the info guys....next question and abit of a long shot...is there anybody who can have a look at this in the wiltshire area of England before the end of next week.

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Don in Lodi · Jun 27, 2015

IF it needs a coil because the boot winds up getting torn up, I kinda doubt anyone will have one sitting on the shelf for you. And as noted earlier, these spark plugs are very capable of 50-60,000 miles. The 20-25k interval we've been told is very early, the plugs come out showing very little wear.

tpak · Jun 27, 2015

Don in Lodi said:
IF it needs a coil because the boot winds up getting torn up, I kinda doubt anyone will have one sitting on the shelf for you. And as noted earlier, these spark plugs are very capable of 50-60,000 miles. The 20-25k interval we've been told is very early, the plugs come out showing very little wear.

But there is a 2012 in the for sale area that is being parted out - you can probably get 1 used one cheap.

yz454 · Jun 27, 2015

Most of the yamahas use the same coils including other Jap brands .

Don in Lodi · Jun 27, 2015

yz454 said:
Most of the yamahas use the same coils including other Jap brands .

?? That's awesome!

motomuffin · Nov 4, 2015

Great thread, so thrilled to see it here; I'm about to tackle plug replacement this weekend. Bike has 20K miles on it and has recently begun to make slight jingly noises (my oilhead makes these same noises when it needs new plugs) so I'm doing plugs and air filter while I'm in there. I've been riding waaay more than doing any maintenance (as evidenced by the miles on the plugs) just a monthly oil change (20K in a year will do that).

I'm so happy to read the gotchas re: coilovers. Just replaced those in my 325i, tickled to see they're in my Yamaha too! ::013::

Noregrets342 · Jan 2, 2016

I've got only 10k on my '13 and she flooded out hopelessly. Probably due to install of a sound bomb and a nearly dead battery. I run lots of elec equip to keep visible and warm in the winter. I did all the steps to clean it out but could still hear only one cylinder firing. Pulled it apart last night using this thread (thanks all) and am off to get new plugs shortly. They were fuel-fouled. One piece of advise is to remove the tank fully. One response said they propped up the tank but that's got to be a crazy way to do it. Two plugs and a pinch of the fuel connector and it's off easier than on my KTM450XC-W, and with just a few drops of spilled fuel. Definitely be sure to vacuum (wife not happy I used her house vac) AND then chip away and blow out the debris you surely will find around the head before pulling the plugs. You will surely find lots of nasty's looking to make their way inside the beast.

Ramseybella · Feb 11, 2016

Still the best price on plugs that I have found, if anyone can find better please let me know..

Rockauto.com $17.26 shipped for four NGK 6607#CPR8EB9 Rock Auto, the best price I have found so far.

Go to the search link below and type in NGK 6607.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/

silvergoose · Feb 19, 2016

I have been reading, with great interest the service threads posted here. Although owning many motorcycle the Tenere will be the first Yamaha.

I would like to mention a trick for installing a spark plug with out the fear of cross threading. Use a piece of rubber tubing with an I.D. small enough to fit over the spark plug ceramic, this will allow the plug to be installed into the well. Once in place the tubing can be turned, this will start the spark plug threads into the cylinder, it the plug is started wrong the tubing will slip, thus no damage to the thread. Lift the plug and reinstall. The torque provided be the tube will be enough to start the plug thread, but can not cause damage.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck

VPS1 · Feb 20, 2016

That's a great tip, thanks!

AndrewA · Mar 28, 2016