Did a stupid thing and turned my S10 off with the kill switch and left the ignition on and now the battery is dead. I do not have my battery charger as I am away from home. Can I jump start my S10 from a car or would this cause any damage? I would appreciate any feedback.
Can I jump start my S10
- Thread starter jeffrey
- Start date
jonkertb
and what list are YOU on?
I would say Yes......I've done it with bikes before....just be very careful to get it hooked up right or you'll see some nice sparks
Jump start yes, bump start not with a really dead battery.
You might put the jumpers on and let it just sit for a while before trying the jump.
You might put the jumpers on and let it just sit for a while before trying the jump.
Why? With the larger capacity of the car battery, it s seldom necessary to have the donor vehicle's engine running, but it won't hurt anything. Both the car's and bike's systems are regulated to the same basic 12V specs.Kidder said:
- Mark
Mark -
Generally no problem, but not a bad idea. The discharged battery would appear to the car's charging system as essentially switching in a big empty capacitor. So if the car engine is running the car's regulator suddenly sees a demand to respond to and can create a significant voltage spike for periods of milliseconds. I'm sure you could Google up some plots. The electronics of the bike and car generally will be able to handle the loads, but if weakened, you could easily overload the expensive electronic parts of the bike and maybe the car.
Another reason for the suggestion to hook up with the car engine off is in case the person bounces the connection, again creating some really significant spikes.
If the car's engine has been off and is started after connecting the jumpers, the bike system is invisible to the car regulator, appearing as a battery that is not at full charge because the two are connected in parallel.
Generally no problem, but not a bad idea. The discharged battery would appear to the car's charging system as essentially switching in a big empty capacitor. So if the car engine is running the car's regulator suddenly sees a demand to respond to and can create a significant voltage spike for periods of milliseconds. I'm sure you could Google up some plots. The electronics of the bike and car generally will be able to handle the loads, but if weakened, you could easily overload the expensive electronic parts of the bike and maybe the car.
Another reason for the suggestion to hook up with the car engine off is in case the person bounces the connection, again creating some really significant spikes.
If the car's engine has been off and is started after connecting the jumpers, the bike system is invisible to the car regulator, appearing as a battery that is not at full charge because the two are connected in parallel.
Typically the rules for jumping are that you have the engine of the donor vehicle off, you connect the positive lead to both batteries, then connect the grounds, making the last connection be the ground on the donor vehicle, preferably to a grounding point on the chassis rather than the battery post. (Making the last connection away from the battery reduces the small risk that the spark that tends to occur with the last connection could possibly ignite any hydrogen gassing from the battery.) Then start the donor vehicle to raise overall system voltage to the typical charging 14V-14.5V (compared to the 12.8V or so of a resting battery) which provides some extra voltage to accommodate the loss in the cables and connections. Then start the dead vehicle.
With the much larger capacity of a car battery providing plenty of current to turn over the comparatively small starter motor of the motorcycle, the need for starting the donor is lessened. That being said, there really is no significant risk of causing damage to either vehicle if you start the donor. Assuming there are no major electrical faults in either vehicle, the systems are completely compatible.
- Mark
With the much larger capacity of a car battery providing plenty of current to turn over the comparatively small starter motor of the motorcycle, the need for starting the donor is lessened. That being said, there really is no significant risk of causing damage to either vehicle if you start the donor. Assuming there are no major electrical faults in either vehicle, the systems are completely compatible.
- Mark
The first bit I agree with, the second part...Depends.markjenn said:
What you are essentially doing on the primary vehicle is asking the battery AND charge system to supply 50-100A accessory current. What ratio that ends up being is up in the air and depends on the load and condition of the primary vehicles battery.
It is the battery AND charge system that supplies the necessary current. In the case of a large capacity car battery the voltage drop cranking the bike would be fairly small so it may not be a huge problem but still 50-100Amps EXTRA spike is a lot to ask even with a good charging system.
It is safer to just start the bike with the car off. Should be ample capacity on a car battery to crank for extended periods without it being charged at the same time. The voltage drop on the car battery will be fairly minimal as well.