Brake line replacement help

BadNews

"Not properly socialized"
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
486
Location
Central Ohio, USA
Got more done than I thought I would today. Clutch line installed and fasteners torqued. Upper brake line and the 2 short lines from the front to the ABS installed and torqued.
The crush washers that came with the Spiegler kit appear to be aluminum? The original washers that came off were the same, except the clutch side were all copper. Not sure why they are different than the brakes.

Big shout out to Skunkworks for his thread on installing the ProTaper EVO Adventure High bars, it is super helpful. I've been following his instructions almost exactly (not quite).

Also, very pleased with the Spiegler lines, all the grommets for fastening points are already installed, and the hard line anchor blocks are included, it's a complete kit.

Tomorrow I'll see if I can finish the install, maybe I'll get around to refilling and bleeding the system. I'm going to use Skunkworks method of bleeding and cycling the ABS several times, let it sit overnight, then once more. Also I will fasten the brake lever and pedal with a tie-wrap to pressurize the system overnight and check for leaks.

Really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and helpful advice from everyone. This is a great community! :)
 

BadNews

"Not properly socialized"
Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
486
Location
Central Ohio, USA
Yesterday I finished installing all the new lines, flushed new fluid through the brakes and cycled the ABS, twice. Pressurized the system overnight, no leaks.

Today I did the clutch side, had the same issue as some others with getting the fluid to run through, followed the advice of Skunkworks to remove the clutch lever, that worked great! I used a 1/4" nut driver to push the clutch piston rod in to get the air out, there was a lot of bubbling. After I got the clutch side done, I bled the brakes again and cycled the ABS. Everything seems fine but I tie-wrapped the brake lever and pedal again until tomorrow, just to be safe. This is my first time replacing brake lines, so I'm being very careful to get everything right.

My first impressions with the brakes (haven't ridden yet) is that they seem noticeably harder, I'll have to be careful to brake moderately until I get the feel of it.

Tomorrow I plan to finish up the brakes, check for leaks again, etc. then put the fuel tank back on and button up the front end. I still have the Skene P3-D to install, may do that tomorrow. All this to mount some ProTaper EVO Adventure High Bars! I'm glad to have the Stainless Steel braided lines on, though.
 

BadNews

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Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
486
Location
Central Ohio, USA
I've heard of people doing this on other forums. Can someone explain the theory on how this works, as to my mind it seems counterintuitive?
From the Spiegler website:
High-Pressure Test - Forces brake fluid into lines and fittings to measure the ability of Spiegler Brake Lines to exceed DOT standards. The FMVSS-106 requires a maximum pressure of 5,000 PSI which our brake lines easily exceed.

The purpose of squeezing the brake lever and pushing the brake pedal and then tie-wrapping them in place is to pressurize the brake system. If any of the fittings are not properly tightened, there will be some fluid seeping out, which will be discovered when you inspect them.
This basically performs the same test on the whole brake system that manufacturers are required to perform on their lines.
 

tallpaul

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
912
Location
Whitworth, Rochdale, UK
Thanks BadNews, so just a leak test then. The other forum was recommending that process for getting air bubbles out of the system and I couldn't understand how tying the brakes under pressure would help with that. You're doing it for a different reason, which makes sense to me. :)
 
B

ballisticexchris

Guest
Thanks BadNews, so just a leak test then. The other forum was recommending that process for getting air bubbles out of the system and I couldn't understand how tying the brakes under pressure would help with that. You're doing it for a different reason, which makes sense to me. :)
I actually never thought of doing it to check pressure on the lines. I always do the gravity hang for air bubble removal.
 
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