Brake line replacement help

[BadNews]

Did a google search, can't find anything specific. Here's my situation:
In conjunction with installing some ProTaper EVO Adventure high bars, I am also replacing all the brake and clutch lines (SS) and installing speed bleeders.

and question: after sucking the fluid out of the reservoirs, do I unhook the old lines at the lowest point and let them drain? Basically, I need to know how to get the old lines out with a minimum of dripping brake fluid. I would rather not have to buy a special vacuum tool unless its an inexpensive hand pumped type. I understand not getting fluid on the paint etc. so I have plenty of towels, just wondered if there is a better way than having fluid drip out of every junction.

I'll be in the garage monitoring this thread on my phone, while I install a Skene P3.

TIA for your help!

 

[~TABASCO~]

lots of paper towels and cleaner !

 

[BadNews]

Is Simple Green okay?

 

[BadNews]

 

[AVGeek]

View attachment 66952
photos keep coming out sideways.

Since phones became the default cameras for everyone, there is an orientation tag in the metadata. Depending on whether you use a PC or Mac, there are a couple of ways to edit the data so that your pictures orient correctly.

Here is a quick Google search that should help: edit photo metadata orientation

 

[AusTexS10]

Skunkworks just did an extensive bleeding demo in his post on Adding the ProTaper Bars in the new posts section.

 

[tubebender]

I would suggest you buy the lower priced Mity-Vac tool. It really is indispensable for servicing braking systems.

Regarding the clutch line; for whatever reason that hose to metal line connection is a PIA. If you have metric line wrenches, use them.
If not, well, more tools!

 

[ballisticexchris]

Do not use simple green. That stuff is nasty on paint and metal. Rubbing alcohol is the best and will not harm the paint. And as Jaxon stated lots of paper towels. Please let us know what is any issues you run into.

My bike is a 2017 and is due for brake line replacement in the next year or so. Good to know you are ahead of the game on required maintenance. If you get the nice teflon lined brake lines, those are lifetime. The OEM ones are good for no more than 4 years before they start to deteriorate and swell.

I recommend using a large syringe. The Mityvac MVA6851 is priced right and will serve your needs.

 

[Boris]

I’d bleed the lines as much as possible first. Once the lines are disconnected from the calipers, I’d tie a plastic bag (food bags and double them up) at the lowest points, then you only have to worry about the top joint spills. WD40 clean cloth wipe over all nearby surfaces Once done.
Bag the clutch line the same way.

 

[BadNews]

Good info, thanks!
Using Spiegler lines, they will add length if you need it. No extra charge up to 6”.

 

[BadNews]

I have some metric flare wrenches.

 

[ballisticexchris]

The Spiegler lines are really nice because you can index them just how you want. Did you go with the OEM setup? Or ditch the crossover brake line in front?

 

[BadNews]

I thought about ditching the crossover but went OEM.

 

[BadNews]

I’m retired and have plenty of time on my hands, so this is probably going to be a several day project for me. Keep the good advice coming, thanks!

 

[BadNews]

Got the clutch line out! Spiegler includes the p-clamp grommet, kudos to them! New line on top.

 

[BadNews]

New clutch line is installed. Just need to look up the torques values for the banjo bolts and the Bolt that holds the P clamp to the frame.

 

[BadNews]

Are the banjo bolts supposed to be torqued 22 foot pounds?

 

[Boris]

Are the banjo bolts supposed to be torqued 22 foot pounds?

Just checked in the Service Manual, your figure is correct.

Same for the brakes.

 

[BadNews]

Thanks! I have a manual, but they call them something else (brake hose union bolt?) so I wasn’t sure.

 

[BadNews]

I would suggest you buy the lower priced Mity-Vac tool. It really is indispensable for servicing braking systems.

Regarding the clutch line; for whatever reason that hose to metal line connection is a PIA. If you have metric line wrenches, use them.
If not, well, more tools!

To which Mity-Vac tool do you have reference? Is it the MV8000 kit?