Clawdog60
Well-Known Member
Doesn’t this contradict motorcycle voltage regulators then?
Battery chargers
- Thread starter Buckeroo Brad
- Start date
Madscrapper85
Active Member
No your back to buying a Li battery with BMS in it. Not sure this battery is the best buy for the S10 not like losing that weight is doing you much good. Also don't think it was ever a question if you were going to trust a Li battery, dag nab them new fangaled contraptions......
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ballisticexchris
Guest
I actually called the battery manufacturer and asked. It's the reason I will only use EarthX batteries. There is no chance of overcharging them. They recommend using the Battery Tender for maintaining a charge. Another reason for getting the EarthX for the Super Tenere was for the best cranking amps. And they are much more reliable/longer lasting than a AGM.
Madscrapper85
Active Member
They have the lowest capacity so there is no way that is possible. They do have a flat amperage curve though so you will get the most stable power out of it for the least amount of maintenance. Realistically you should only need to charge that battery once every six months (after the intial full charge) when not in use.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
Not all batteries are created equal. You are not going to find a AGM battery that will fit in a Super Tenere with more capacity or cranking amps than a EarthX 36ETX.
Madscrapper85
Active Member
Love to see that tested. Those are impressive numbers for that price I sure as hell hope so.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
The Scorpion battery I bought is actually rated at 387 CCA vs. the EarthX 36 rating of 320 CCA. It was about 1/2 the price too. Longevity compared to the EarthX is still to be determined.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
I almost got the Scorpion. I have had such good luck with the EarthX brand over the years I decided to continue with the same brand. I'm pretty sure the Scorpion has the most cranking amps than any of them.
Madscrapper85
Active Member
After that fortnine video and my own first experience in seeing that the li battery said it had a much higher AH rating that it actually had I'm skeptical of that specific rating until I see a draw test to prove it. I know that they pack the punch but normally it's not for as long.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
I have tested it. Many many times. My bike spins right up each and every time. My main reason to getting the EarthX is for reliability.
I have had my Beta in super extreme rock crawling conditions. I have had to crank and crank over and over. It has never left me stranded or having to kick my bike over.
Madscrapper85
Active Member
That's not the kind of test I'm talking about that only shows it had the CCA's which is really what they're for. The reason the small jump packs work. AH on the other hand is how long those CCA's work and that's not the strong suit for those batteries.
Just re read you last post, still would like to see a real draw test just to know how many actual AH it has. I'm not knocking it I'm sure it's a great battery just would like to know for sure.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I don’t think AH ratings are as important as CCA for a starting battery. Now if you were running an electric scooter or something, where the capacity of the battery is routinely exhausted, that would be a different story. Also, if I have understood what I’ve read correctly, I think a Li battery will maintain amperage output over a larger percentage of its total capacity, even if that capacity is less. So even if a lead/acid battery has more total AH of capacity, its ability to furnish full amperage will fall off sooner with respect to its total capacity.
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Madscrapper85
Active Member
Any (good) battery you buy that is going to fit a bike is going to have the needed CCA's but as someone who charges things while camping or heaven forbid has been prone to leaving the key on accidentally AH is very important. You use CCA for what 15s every day. But when you need AH you need AH.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
That's something you don't have to worry about on the EarthX batteries. You can leave key on and drain the battery until it shuts off. Then you simply wake it back up with a quick jump and go on your merry way. It has a low voltage shut off switch built in.
The Junior doesn't have a sulfidation mode and has a low C-rate, which was probably one reason Shorai recommended them. It charges 12.4V and floats at 13.2V, so is a bit less than the 100% SOC that a Li-Ion charger will give.
MattR
Well-Known Member
I’m using an Optimate 3 for charging and maintaining my OEM battery but I note from the handbook that it say not to use a normal charger on this type of battery. Is my optimate ok?
The motor seems to crank very slowly when starting (but never fails) I’m guessing this is down to it being a big high compression twin a bit like my Harley’s use to.
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The motor seems to crank very slowly when starting (but never fails) I’m guessing this is down to it being a big high compression twin a bit like my Harley’s use to.
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Cycledude
Well-Known Member
What year Tenere do you own ? My 2013 never cranked very well, the OEM battery still tested very good at 40,000 miles but I replaced it with the new recommend 14 something battery that’s supposed to have more cranking amps and it did crank slightly better but nowhere near what my 2018 does with the original battery.
It is not OK to use the Optimate3 on Li-Ion and can lead to fire from an overcharge.
One of the worst things that you can do to a Li-Ion battery is overcharge it, because the cell will accept the voltage until breaking down the electrolyte and finding the weakest point in the plastic separator membrane. At that point an internal thermal runaway results and cascades because the cell contains fuel, oxygen, and now a source of increasing heat to ignite it.
Lead acid batteries can grow crystals and desulfidation is an attempt to dissolve them. The way a charger does this is by pulsing the battery with short bursts of 15-16V. A lead aside battery can only take so much charge, where a lithium will gladly keep taking more until it is destroyed. The typical charge for LiFePo4 is 3.6V/cell or 14.4V/battery, and bad things happen at around 4.2/cell or more (16.8/battery). With a very slightly flawed cell or desulfating charger that is slightly out of tolerance, there is just no safety margin.
Another problem with high amperage chargers and ones with desulfidation circuits is that the little lithium ions are forced into the coating so hard and fast that the ions can not be absorbed. They build up on the surface of the internal coatings and the battery life can be massively shortened.
MattR
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. My dealer said it was ok but I wasn’t convinced!! Any advice on what charger to use?
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