EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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Lets keep in mind that deliberately torquing the bars at the stop is far more pressure than what occurs when riding the bike. And this is no dirt bike. Things are pretty beefy and engineered for a 600 lb bike, not a 250-400 lb bike. No one is racing a Super Ten aside from sponsored individuals that expect to break things.
A lot of people are running Rox risers on both Gen bikes. I am unaware of any reported failures. That doesn't mean there haven't been any, but we have some of the highest mileage riders doing RTW rides and no one has reported a failure. Some wheel failures at random mileage & some other odd off items at seriously high mileage north of 150k miles.
I've personally had both Gens and put 109k on my Gen I before selling it to another forum member. I am currently riding a Gen II with 2" Rox pivot risers. I had non-pivot Rox risers on the Gen I, 1 1/4" up, 1 1?4" back. I have not deliberately tried to toque the bars over at lock on either bike. It's not something that occurs in normal use. I do plenty of slow riding and have no problems doing full lock turns with either Gen bike with the risers listed earlier that I was using. I have done off pavement riding from gravel roads to moderately challenging two track over mountain passes with plenty of rough terrain. I was never racing or trying to see how fast I could go. I never noticed any flex that made me think twice about the bar risers.
In terms of switching from the Gen II top plate and risers to the Gen I versions, You're talking about parts #10 & 13 (2 needed), and you can probably re-use the other bolts from the Gen II.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d843f87002275461de7d/steering
You will also need (2) #34 bolts for the ignition. These are security head bolts. You'll be grinding off the existing ones on the Gen II top plate in order to remove the ignition switch. You could opt to replace them with normal allen head or button head bolts if you choose to not worry about the security issue. Personal choice.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d847f87002275461de92/electrical-1
The ignitions are different prefixes, but otherwise the same number. Gen I - 23P-82501-10-00 & Gen II - 2BS-82501-10-00. The ignition main switch cover that fits over the ignition switch is the same part number on both Gens, so the physical diameter is the same. Odds are the bolt position is also the same, but we won't know 100% until someone does this mod.
@TheMCP - Glad you identified the point where things were moving. Thank you for sharing what you learned. If the seller won't accept them back or exchange them for non-vibration dampening versions, they may be appealing to one of the Gen I owners on this forum.
A lot of people are running Rox risers on both Gen bikes. I am unaware of any reported failures. That doesn't mean there haven't been any, but we have some of the highest mileage riders doing RTW rides and no one has reported a failure. Some wheel failures at random mileage & some other odd off items at seriously high mileage north of 150k miles.
I've personally had both Gens and put 109k on my Gen I before selling it to another forum member. I am currently riding a Gen II with 2" Rox pivot risers. I had non-pivot Rox risers on the Gen I, 1 1/4" up, 1 1?4" back. I have not deliberately tried to toque the bars over at lock on either bike. It's not something that occurs in normal use. I do plenty of slow riding and have no problems doing full lock turns with either Gen bike with the risers listed earlier that I was using. I have done off pavement riding from gravel roads to moderately challenging two track over mountain passes with plenty of rough terrain. I was never racing or trying to see how fast I could go. I never noticed any flex that made me think twice about the bar risers.
In terms of switching from the Gen II top plate and risers to the Gen I versions, You're talking about parts #10 & 13 (2 needed), and you can probably re-use the other bolts from the Gen II.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d843f87002275461de7d/steering
You will also need (2) #34 bolts for the ignition. These are security head bolts. You'll be grinding off the existing ones on the Gen II top plate in order to remove the ignition switch. You could opt to replace them with normal allen head or button head bolts if you choose to not worry about the security issue. Personal choice.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d847f87002275461de92/electrical-1
The ignitions are different prefixes, but otherwise the same number. Gen I - 23P-82501-10-00 & Gen II - 2BS-82501-10-00. The ignition main switch cover that fits over the ignition switch is the same part number on both Gens, so the physical diameter is the same. Odds are the bolt position is also the same, but we won't know 100% until someone does this mod.
@TheMCP - Glad you identified the point where things were moving. Thank you for sharing what you learned. If the seller won't accept them back or exchange them for non-vibration dampening versions, they may be appealing to one of the Gen I owners on this forum.