Bar riser flex

EricV

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Lets keep in mind that deliberately torquing the bars at the stop is far more pressure than what occurs when riding the bike. And this is no dirt bike. Things are pretty beefy and engineered for a 600 lb bike, not a 250-400 lb bike. No one is racing a Super Ten aside from sponsored individuals that expect to break things.

A lot of people are running Rox risers on both Gen bikes. I am unaware of any reported failures. That doesn't mean there haven't been any, but we have some of the highest mileage riders doing RTW rides and no one has reported a failure. Some wheel failures at random mileage & some other odd off items at seriously high mileage north of 150k miles.

I've personally had both Gens and put 109k on my Gen I before selling it to another forum member. I am currently riding a Gen II with 2" Rox pivot risers. I had non-pivot Rox risers on the Gen I, 1 1/4" up, 1 1?4" back. I have not deliberately tried to toque the bars over at lock on either bike. It's not something that occurs in normal use. I do plenty of slow riding and have no problems doing full lock turns with either Gen bike with the risers listed earlier that I was using. I have done off pavement riding from gravel roads to moderately challenging two track over mountain passes with plenty of rough terrain. I was never racing or trying to see how fast I could go. I never noticed any flex that made me think twice about the bar risers.

In terms of switching from the Gen II top plate and risers to the Gen I versions, You're talking about parts #10 & 13 (2 needed), and you can probably re-use the other bolts from the Gen II.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d843f87002275461de7d/steering

You will also need (2) #34 bolts for the ignition. These are security head bolts. You'll be grinding off the existing ones on the Gen II top plate in order to remove the ignition switch. You could opt to replace them with normal allen head or button head bolts if you choose to not worry about the security issue. Personal choice.
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d847f87002275461de92/electrical-1

The ignitions are different prefixes, but otherwise the same number. Gen I - 23P-82501-10-00 & Gen II - 2BS-82501-10-00. The ignition main switch cover that fits over the ignition switch is the same part number on both Gens, so the physical diameter is the same. Odds are the bolt position is also the same, but we won't know 100% until someone does this mod.

@TheMCP - Glad you identified the point where things were moving. Thank you for sharing what you learned. If the seller won't accept them back or exchange them for non-vibration dampening versions, they may be appealing to one of the Gen I owners on this forum.
 

squarebore

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Apr 22, 2013
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Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
Opinions are good. Please share what you can support with Super Ten experience. Not some other bike, not owned by you.
Eric, can I respectfully ask that you make sure your replies and comments appear that they come from you only and you are not representing the other forum members. You have some very interesting OPINIONS at times and I enjoy reading what you say. I sometimes find your manner quite abrupt and condescending. That is just my opinion. In this case I feel it is disrespectful to question the integrity of another member. I normally just "scroll on" when I disagree but this time I thought I should speak up. We all have opinions and as they are not facts or data, they are all worth the same and worthy of respect.

Edit - I'm happy to read about other bike experiences and third part stories. Quite often they have values. If yiu dont like something, "scroll on". Cheers

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EricV

Riding, farkling, riding...
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I appreciate your reply Squarebore. Thanks for saying something. I'm not known for my tact.

I believe we all only speak for ourselves here. Apologies if any of my posts infer otherwise. I grow weary of doom sayers and nonsense posts and posters that start topics just to stir the pot and not to ask or seek actual information. Worse, coming in with a belief and seeking only to justify that, instead of learn.

Some people own motorcycles and occasionally ride them. Some are motorcyclists.
 
B

ballisticexchris

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I had no intention of stirring the pot. My posts and content were taken out of context to a whole other level. I really like this forum and want to learn as much as I can. And yes I consider myself a motorcyclist. OTOH, I have wound down my peeling off miles and do not commute anymore. Hence not as many miles. I'm lucky to get out once a week to ride. I have a 60-70 hours per week job, and personal commitments that eat up my riding time. FWIW, "I consider anyone who rides, occasionally or otherwise a motorcyclist". Now that statement is purely my opinion.

I was hoping to give back some good info on a safety tip and what can happen when we do what was not intended by the engineers of these bikes. It backfired and upset a member. I apologize for that.
Happy Trails
Chris
 

SkunkWorks

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Joined
Sep 13, 2018
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1,735
Location
Colorado
When I first got this bike, one of the things that bugged me was the amount of Bar movement in the factory rubber bushings.
It felt unsafe and excessive to me, so I did the "Washer-fix"
It has gone around 6,000 miles since I did this, and I don't notice any additional vibrations in the bar at all.
The video that I posted was how much movement there actually was. ALL of this movement was within the rubber bushing itself.







Fixed the extremely excessive amount of movement in the factory rubber handlebar riser bushings.

I went down the street to ACE Hardware and got 2 thick 5/8" washers, and 2 thin ones.
Mounted the thick ones on top of the upper clamp.
View attachment 49929

Used the 2 thin ones underneath.
View attachment 49930

Tightened it all back down, and it is rock solid now!

I also mounted 2 fresh tires. The original Battlewings that came with the bike were finally done...............
View attachment 49931
View attachment 49932
They had 8250 miles on them.

Some fresh rubber, bought on sale at Performance Cycle here in Denver.
View attachment 49933
View attachment 49934
View attachment 49935
View attachment 49936
View attachment 49937
View attachment 49938

Only got to take it around the block a few times. No real test-ride yet.
Snow here today in Denver area :(
 

Eville Rich

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Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
464
Location
Wisconsin, USA
I've got the non-vibration dampening 2" pivoting risers on my 2016 S10. They don't seem to have the issue being described with the vibration dampening ones. But I will say, that going over rough road does lead to a bit more shake in the bars than I'd prefer. It's very apparent if I go one handed. The side of the bar I'm not holding shake a good bit. It's not bad when I have both hands on the bars and in the vast majority of street riding I do. I attribute it to the extra leverage the risers create. It suggests that Yamaha did some good engineering figgerin' when coming up with the dampeners for the stock setup. I'm planning to add the washers, which I got last fall but simply haven't gotten around to installing. So obviously it's not that big a deal to me.

Rather than doing the whole triple tree thing, I suggest just getting the non-vibe versions and go from there. Seems like waaay less effort. Unless you are into that sort of thing.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
 

TheMCP

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Joined
Jul 28, 2019
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So before I uninstalled them, I took a short video of the specific flex that was bothering me so much so you guys could see what I'm talking about: Twisting mounts

I have the bars turned to the lock, and I'm putting relatively minimal pressure in the leftward direction... this isn't me cranking on the bars this is like a hard two finger push on both ends. Take note that steering is at lock, the forks aren't turning. As you can see, the fact that each rox riser has a single pivot point on top of where it attaches to the stock mounts allows the bars to turn at an angle independent from the stock mounts, causing them to twist. Not only is this type of flex putting twisting pressure on the bolts holding the handlebar studs through the triple clamp, but maybe more worryingly, it's going to put rotational pressure on the rox risers themselves in a forward / back orientation (incidentally, directly on the bolts trying to hold the stem that is too short due to the angled stock risers).

Anyway, the normal Rox riser is solid instead of having that pivot point, so there shouldn't be any way to get the mount to twist. The "normal" movement in the dampers is something I can probably live with (now that I know it's there, its still pretty obvious even in stock form), and I won't rule out the washer thing if it ends up bothering me.

For now, I just put it back to stock and went riding with my wife... 2 up at 12,000 feet, not a bad day.

IMG_20190807_124614861_HDR.jpg
 
R

RonH

Guest
Of course the best bet is just to leave the bars as designed. Adding crap always results is crap results. Some add ons are ok, but risers definately fall in the crap.
Same idea as lift kits in trucks, guys put them on and complain of vibration, and bad ride. HELLO, you've just completely fricked up the driveline angle, and now the shocks are extended 4" too far at rest or shocks are replaced with Chinese crap "upgrade"
I never feel any pitty at all for guys that add these things. Handlebars are high as the bike comes delivered.
 

squarebore

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Apr 22, 2013
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Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
Of course the best bet is just to leave the bars as designed. Adding crap always results is crap results. Some add ons are ok, but risers definately fall in the crap.
Same idea as lift kits in trucks, guys put them on and complain of vibration, and bad ride. HELLO, you've just completely fricked up the driveline angle, and now the shocks are extended 4" too far at rest or shocks are replaced with Chinese crap "upgrade"
I never feel any pitty at all for guys that add these things. Handlebars are high as the bike comes delivered.
Fairly narrow intolerant view there Ron. But i expect you were just trying to stir the pot. My s10 was probably designed with a smaller rider in mind. My bar risers allow me to stand whilst on dirt and have proper control of the bike. Do you actually ride a totally stock bike? Great if you do but many don't. Tolerance is awesome. Cheers

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TheMCP

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Jul 28, 2019
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New risers arrived, and as expected the normal Rox risers don't have nearly the issues of the anti-vibe ones. It's still going to amplify the flexing effect of the stock dampers (which can be addressed with the washer mod, if desired), but it no longer feels like the bike is twisting in my hands.

After having both, my suggestion would be to stay away from the anti-vibe risers due to the pivot point they have built into the anti-vibe joint. I honestly kinda wonder if they should really be on the revzilla's Tenere "compatibility" list at all...
 

Lux

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Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
64
Location
St. Petersburg, Florida
I know this is an old post but has anyone replaced the rubber anti vibration bushings in the upper triple tree, or know what it would take to change them?
 
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