Tenman
Well-Known Member
The Quantum fuel pump i cheapskated on didn’t put up enough pressure to run. I gave them a 1 star review. Quantum just sent me my $75 back. Didn’t expect that.
back firing
- Thread starter Tenman
- Start date
lund
Well-Known Member
There is so much nonsense on this thread it was hard to read.
First if your not a tech, maybe you should leave diagnostics to a tech.
Second, doing a resistance test on an ign. coil is 100% useless and will tell you nothing. Ign coil's work or they don't, it is just that simple. So put the micky mouse meter away. If a coil stops working, check its power source and connector plug.
Thirdly, what does valve settings and fuel pumps have to do with ign coils??? Going back to #1, getting a certified tech to diagnose is worth gold.
Lastly, shop rates and cost of parts. A year ago was that a year ago, since Covid rates on shop time and parts have gone up substantially. Shops, dealer or not pay more, the cost is past down.
We just installed a fuel pump in a Can-Am Spyder, pump alone $795.00, 2hrs labour on top plus taxes.
Now on your initial problem, BACK FIRING, most all backfiring in a 4stroke motor is caused by a lean condition.
Ignition cutting out can cause back firing IF it fires back up while running but extremely rare and is likely to be a bad connection if this is the case.
But with out seeing and hearing your bike, i'm leaning towards a lean condition with the fuel system or related components.
First if your not a tech, maybe you should leave diagnostics to a tech.
Second, doing a resistance test on an ign. coil is 100% useless and will tell you nothing. Ign coil's work or they don't, it is just that simple. So put the micky mouse meter away. If a coil stops working, check its power source and connector plug.
Thirdly, what does valve settings and fuel pumps have to do with ign coils??? Going back to #1, getting a certified tech to diagnose is worth gold.
Lastly, shop rates and cost of parts. A year ago was that a year ago, since Covid rates on shop time and parts have gone up substantially. Shops, dealer or not pay more, the cost is past down.
We just installed a fuel pump in a Can-Am Spyder, pump alone $795.00, 2hrs labour on top plus taxes.
Now on your initial problem, BACK FIRING, most all backfiring in a 4stroke motor is caused by a lean condition.
Ignition cutting out can cause back firing IF it fires back up while running but extremely rare and is likely to be a bad connection if this is the case.
But with out seeing and hearing your bike, i'm leaning towards a lean condition with the fuel system or related components.
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MattR
Well-Known Member
Yeah I’m fed up with being ripped off and lied to by so called technicians. I never use them.
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lund
Well-Known Member
We run well over a 1000 vehicles a year through the shop, ranging from motorcycles, snowmobiles, boats, ATV's and side by sides. Seldom do we have a return and in some cases we find problems are owner caused. The fuel pump is a fine example, customer purchases an aftermarket fuel pump after realizing the OEM is $$$. Then finds him self in a worst position as the motor will no longer start while his old pump would atleast run the motor.
Blames the aftermarket cheap pump.
Brings bike into our shop, diagnoses shows poor pressure. We find that the aftermarket pump is ok but the customer neglected the fuel regulator filter screen was plugged and dirty.
After cleaning all was back to normal. I could go on with these stories of chasing created problems we get alot of them.
We always give our customer a choice on OE parts or aftermarket with a warranty on the work performed as RELATED to the issue.
Don't come to us for a tune up and a week later come back about an oil leak for warranty, it ain't going to happen..many try though.
Blames the aftermarket cheap pump.
Brings bike into our shop, diagnoses shows poor pressure. We find that the aftermarket pump is ok but the customer neglected the fuel regulator filter screen was plugged and dirty.
After cleaning all was back to normal. I could go on with these stories of chasing created problems we get alot of them.
We always give our customer a choice on OE parts or aftermarket with a warranty on the work performed as RELATED to the issue.
Don't come to us for a tune up and a week later come back about an oil leak for warranty, it ain't going to happen..many try though.
Yes….it's true, when a coil stops working…just that….that cylinder won't work…But in the S10, you have “2 coils per cylinder”….so, how to “rule out” that the fault is ignition? ….just checking……How can you know which of the 2 coils is not working on a cylinder??
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
I’ve had coils partially fail, and by that I mean they would begin misfiring when they got hot. Starting and first 15-20 minutes the engine would run fine until everything in the engine bay got heat soaked and then the misfires would begin. Testing them at room temperature on the bench would always test fine (no open). So far I’ve only experienced this happening on conventional or block coils, not the COP (coil on plug) type, but I have less exposure to them as they are a newer design.
If you’re suspecting a bad coil that tests fine on the bench, try testing after hitting it with a hot air gun.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
If you’re suspecting a bad coil that tests fine on the bench, try testing after hitting it with a hot air gun.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Tenman
Well-Known Member
Quit reading it then
lund
Well-Known Member
The purpose of the dual spark plugs is a way for manufactures to meet EPA standards, especially in a big bore motor application like the Tenere.
If one coil fails it will run, it won't be very fuel efficient, that's all and you probably experience a change in engine performance.
It will not back fire and for both coil's on one cylinder to fail is extremely unlikely. The engine does not require both plugs to fire to run.
Plus on the Tenere you will get a code during a ign coil failure, from what I remember I believe is #33-36.
Simply put, back firing in a 4stroke type motor is 90% of the time related to an intake/fuel system problem, a lean condition happening.
The other 10% I guess would be gremlins playing and that is when thing's can get involved. The odd ball things, maybe you have one of them.
Tenman
Well-Known Member
I picked my 2013 xtz1200 today. They had it 30 days. Valve adjustment, fuel pump and the recall. $1500. I didn't ride it before I left the shop. MISTAKE. The shop foreman rode it to my trailer and said it was running great I loaded her up. When I got home. I find out the CRUISE and the LIGHT bar doesn't work anymore. It has multiple screws missing and loose. None of the screws that hold the panels on have the plastic washers under them. The left side of the throttle body isn't fully seated. The electrical panel isn't mounted right inside the lower right side panel. It has a missing push pin that mounts it. It flops around. The gas tank vent lines aren't routed correctly and the rubber covers that were on them are gone. The right side wind deflector wasn't tight. Flopping. I didn't get a sheet with my valve clearance measurements that everybody gets when getting a valve adjustment. At least it runs good again.. 90 miles back to the shop. Shite
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scott123007
Well-Known Member
If it runs well, and you've found everything they they've screwed up already, why bring it back? Fix it yourself, and save the aggravation.
cyclemike4
Well-Known Member
I really don't have the time to do a lot of work on my bikes. I will not be as proficient as a long term working good motorcycle mechanic but I am as good as most out there working in the field. I like to do all my own work and I know everything was done right and not just rushed through. the great thing about this bike is it really doesn't need a lot of maintenance. Come to think of it I have rode Yamaha's for years and they all were good long term bikes for me.
Tenman
Well-Known Member
If it was that simple I would. If I try to chase down the wiring problem. They will say I created it and it's on me now. The cruise and light bar are still out. The electrical panel won’t push flush to put a missing push pin it it. Something is behind it that is big enough to cause it to bulge out enough to feel like it's gonna break the side panel. To get the right side panel on. I have to push on it Hard to get the screws to start. I've taken the electrical panel off before. It's a pita for me. As far as fixing it myself. I just paid a professional big bux to do it. Seating the throttle body is not that big of a deal but as I said. I just had paid a shop to do it. The side cover screws aren't something I have laying around. They need to be held accountable.
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Tenman
Well-Known Member
Finally got my bike back. Cruise and the light bar working now. No charge this time. It's been in the shop since Oct. 22. The tech said they fired the guy that orginally did the shite job working on it. My valves were checked at 24k miles and were in spec. They were just checked at 70k and were still in spec. Is there supposed to be a different charge for checking valves and actually adjusting them? I know it's a lot more work adjusting them. I got charged for an adjustment both times.
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