Arrow Down-Pipes + OEM Muffler

kmasa58

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Sep 23, 2018
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90
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Oregon
Do any of you run an aftermarket 'down-pipe' with stock exhaust? I've read a comment that someone did, but I wasn't able to find that post.

After I had my ECU reflashed at 2WDW in WA & really noticed the difference in how the S10 performs. So, I got myself a set of Arrow down-pipes (soooo light) & a arrow slip-on. I can probably save nearly 20lbs or so with the swap! I tested the Arrow Slip-Ons and it's bit loud for my taste. So, I'm thining of using the OEM muffler with the Arrow down-pipe + K&N air filter & do the ECU reflash for that setup. My S10 is basically a 'tourning' rig and if I'm going to be in the rider's seat for hours on end, I think I prefer it quiet. Any one here run the same / similar setup to what I'm thinking? IF you do, please let me know what you think.

Thanks in advance!
 

fac191

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Jun 22, 2016
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The shorter cans are louder also the stock can fires down which may make it seem quieter.
 

pooh and xtine

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Nov 13, 2014
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UK
I run Arrow headers with a stock can. It’s a good combo because it’s hardly noisier than standard, allows you to remap without O2 sensors and there’s no need to repack the silencer.
 

T4ten

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Aug 10, 2018
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York, UK
I run Arrow headers with a stock can. It’s a good combo because it’s hardly noisier than standard, allows you to remap without O2 sensors and there’s no need to repack the silencer.
Definitely this. Really pleasing set up without being too loud.
 

kmasa58

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Sep 23, 2018
Messages
90
Location
Oregon
Dang...I got my ECU back from 2WDW earlier this week, after installing my arrow header & K&N filter...the bike will NOT start. It cranks fine, but will not start ... I'm really hoping it's just a corrupted map so I'm going to send the ECU back to 2WDW to have it 're-reflash' again. IF the 're-reflash' doesn't work, I'm planning to return the bike to OEM setup and return the ECU to OEM setup and go from there. I'm really hoping I didn't 'damage/kill' my ECU.
 

AusTexS10

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Jan 24, 2020
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733
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Austin, TX
Do any of you run an aftermarket 'down-pipe' with stock exhaust? I've read a comment that someone did, but I wasn't able to find that post.

After I had my ECU reflashed at 2WDW in WA & really noticed the difference in how the S10 performs. So, I got myself a set of Arrow down-pipes (soooo light) & a arrow slip-on. I can probably save nearly 20lbs or so with the swap! I tested the Arrow Slip-Ons and it's bit loud for my taste. So, I'm thining of using the OEM muffler with the Arrow down-pipe + K&N air filter & do the ECU reflash for that setup. My S10 is basically a 'tourning' rig and if I'm going to be in the rider's seat for hours on end, I think I prefer it quiet. Any one here run the same / similar setup to what I'm thinking? IF you do, please let me know what you think.

Thanks in advance!
I've got the Arrow headers on my 2013 with the stock can (no flash yet, hoping that's in my Christmas stocking) and have the same thoughts as others that posted here. Slightly mellower, but healthier, sound. I tried a Delkvic slip-on, but it was way too loud and "raspy" to enjoy for a long tour.
 

AusTexS10

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Jan 24, 2020
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733
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Austin, TX
Dang...I got my ECU back from 2WDW earlier this week, after installing my arrow header & K&N filter...the bike will NOT start. It cranks fine, but will not start ... I'm really hoping it's just a corrupted map so I'm going to send the ECU back to 2WDW to have it 're-reflash' again. IF the 're-reflash' doesn't work, I'm planning to return the bike to OEM setup and return the ECU to OEM setup and go from there. I'm really hoping I didn't 'damage/kill' my ECU.
It's such an operation to get to the ECU on this bike, maybe it's just something that didn't make connection when you put it all back together. I've heard of that happening, but don't recall the exact circumstance (and your error may vary, lol) Good luck.
 

kmasa58

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Sep 23, 2018
Messages
90
Location
Oregon
Yeah, I feel the same way about the Delcvic pipes ... they're simply too loud for any 'long distance' riding.
 

kmasa58

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Sep 23, 2018
Messages
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Oregon
AusTexS10,

Yeah, that was my first thought...so, I checked all the wires that I had to sort of 'push' out of the way to get to the ECU. I also re-checked the 2 connectors that they were fully seated & that I did not bend any of those pins that needs to be inserted. So far, I've not found anything obvious. My next thought is could the 'ignition coils' been damaged some how ... but, baby steps first. Will post updates as I T/S.
 

AusTexS10

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Jan 24, 2020
Messages
733
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Austin, TX
AusTexS10,

Yeah, that was my first thought...so, I checked all the wires that I had to sort of 'push' out of the way to get to the ECU. I also re-checked the 2 connectors that they were fully seated & that I did not bend any of those pins that needs to be inserted. So far, I've not found anything obvious. My next thought is could the 'ignition coils' been damaged some how ... but, baby steps first. Will post updates as I T/S.
Got gas, lol? Cranking but not firing can be electrical, fuel or a combination. Good luck with your troubleshooting; sorry something obvious didn't jump out.
 

kmasa58

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Joined
Sep 23, 2018
Messages
90
Location
Oregon
Ureka! I finally got the bike started today & went for a short ride! The problem appears to have been combination of loose connector somewhere & according to Nate / 2WDW, incorrect fireing order on the ecu reflash. Nate / 2WDW was VERY accomodating T/S my issue ... after the correction was made on ecu, the bike still wouldnot start at first. So, Nate advised to look possibly for a loose wire/connector, I re-checked everything electrical for the 3rd time & still found nothing. So, instead of trying to find 'the one' loose connector, I decided to re-seat ALL connectors. What you know, it worked! I'm just HAPPY that I didn't have to replace my ECU or take it to the shop for T/S. So, my advise to anyone who is thinking of doing the reflash on their bike(s), be careful removing the ECU. Release tension from the wires as much as possible prior to removal. The bike seems to rev more 'freely' from idle now with the arrow headers + K&N air filter and less heat coming from below onto my ankles at stand still. Looking forward to next spring for a road trip!!!
 

kmasa58

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2018
Messages
90
Location
Oregon
Thought I'd drop short comment on how the bike's running... After FINALLY getting the exhaust leak under control, I got to ride it a little today. I mixed it up a bit between slow down-town traffic, bit of twisty and the freeway. Frist thing...there's lot less heat felt coming from under the engine. Generally speaking the throttle on/off snatchiness is more less untoicable and there's bit more low/mid-range making it easier to over-take a car on the freeway without down shifting. For those who are looking for improved riding and bit more performance, I'd highly recommend upto swapping out the headers and the air filter with OEM muffler. Just less heat and practically eliminating throttle on/off jerkiness is worth it!
 
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