Anyone installing Shindengen SH847 series type rectifier / regulator?

[mebgardner]

I've been using one of these on my 2012 "Wee" Strom DL650 for about 3 years.

The electrical system on that cycle is admittedly weak, and somewhat problem prone to failing stators.

I changed the rectifier regulator from the OEM shunt type, to the series type Shindengen SH847, to keep the shunted power out of the stator.

I used the search engine here, and found no topics for "Shindengen", or "SH847". I'm thinking "no one's changing these out, cause there's no problem to fix."

Just wondering if anyone has done this mod?

 

[Squibb]

There hasn't been much traffic on here regarding Reg/Rec problems with the S10, unlike Triumph, Honda & Aprilia Forums. Thus, most of us are running OE.

We have debated briefly the benefits of OE vs MOSFET vs Series R/Rs (SH847), but I can't recall anyone actually having the need to change. Maybe someone will chip in & educate me otherwise? There have been the odd high mileage Stator failures, but usually attributed to fair wear & tear rather than R/R issues.

Just search Reg/Recs if you need more info. Probably best to leave alone, unless you have a charging issue.

Ride Safe ..................... KEN

 

[mebgardner]

OK, thanks. I agree, probably best to leave it alone unless it develops problems.

I swapped this part out on other cycles to prevent future problems , usually related to stator failure (heat related).

Or, because I was attempting to squeeze out every last watt from an underpowered electrical system.

Looks like neither of those is an issue with this cycle.

Yay! Money and Time for Other Farkles! Horay!!

 

[AVGeek]

What Squibb said. I've been here since before the bike came to the US, and I cannot recall a single failure report for the R/R.

 

[2daMax]

The R/R was a serious topic at the Kawasaki Versys forum, as it is well known for stator coil failures. As early as 30k km and by 60k km, if you haven't had a failure, then lucky you. It will still happen so I take back the lucky statemet. So coming into the S10 fold, the first thing I tried to search was R/R series type but nothing.

It says a lot about the quality of the S10 Stator and the engine design.

Here's my understanding of the stock R/R shunt type. Regardless of electrical power load, the excess unused current generated at the stator coil will be grounded, i.e, current flowing through the coils is flowing at maximum regardless of load. This causes heat to build up from I^2.R losses within the coils. Over time, these heat causes the insulation to breakdown and causes a short circuit within the coil; causing burnt coils.

A Series type R/R regulates the current depending on load, which leads to less current flowing within the coils. Less heat is the result. The technical Versys owners made temperature measurements at the stator part of the engine and notes a big drop in temperatures when they are using the Series type. They were using Compufire R/R that were plug and play.

From memory, I know of a S10 in Singapore that has a burnt coil. High mileage bike. I would be interested if there is a plug and play version for the S10, providing the cost is reasonable.

The versys engines uses 2L of oil, and it runs a lot hotter than the S10's engine.....somewhere about 25 degrees difference. The coil is cooled by engine oil and the versys's stator are constantly hotter which in my opinion shorten's the lifespan significantly. Using fully synthetic oil will have better cooling. Never measured but sensed that the bike engine was hotter with semi-syn oil versus fully when I was on the Versys. My S10 is always on fully syn.

 

[Checkswrecks]

DCStrom's last year in Germany failed at 130,000 miles roughly and seems to me there was one other, several years ago. For all the Teneres out there and knowing that mods are typically the very first thing to fail, I'll stick with the stocker.

Yamaha has places they cut corners for sure, but Kaw and Suzi generally use a bit lower grade materials and stay with older tech longer. For example, I don't think I've ever heard of problems with frame bolts in a Yamaha, but changing them out in some of the Kaw products is fairly common. Guessing that it's the same with electric parts.

 

[mebgardner]

Thanks, folks. I was prepped for changing the R/R on this cycle, because in the past I had to do it as a matter of course.

Oil cooled stators are, in general, not a great design pattern. Sometimes I alleviated the stator's heat burden by applying additional current consumption product (aux lights, side lights, etc), and then leaving them turned on. Sometimes, it was not a matter of fighting the stator heating, but a matter of adding electrical capability to a system that was already "squeezed", and so I was looking for every watt I could find.

Neither seem to be the case with the S10, as shown by the forum history. Horay!

 

[snakebitten]

Anything that breaks on Trevor\Dcstrom's Tenere actually reveals how dang rugged that broken part was!

The poster-bike-Tenere for Yamahas REAL world RTW entry.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Yeah, but Trevor / DCStrom sucks as a navigator. The world's only 24,000 miles around and he's done more than five times that in riding from Washington DC to Perth, Australia. (his original intent)

 

[snakebitten]

Nobody said a GPS was required to go RTW.

I know for a fact eemreno would do it old-school.
Picture him eating some place in Brazil and asking his waitress in broken-Spanish "Which way to Argentina?"
And that is IF he would even ask for directions.

 

[mebgardner]

Having lived some time in Brazil, I think obtaining the actual directions would be the least of the reasons for asking said local waitress. Yah, like that

 

[mebgardner]

So, I installed a digital voltmeter onto the dash.

A 0.55" Red LED, 3 digit, "waterproof" from eBay. They're about $5.00 and free shipping, lots of choices.

(If you do this, make sure to get the 0.55" tall digits model, and not the 0.40" model. I like Red but blue and green digits also available).

Routed the wiring directly to the battery terminals.

Stock '16 ST, OEM halogen headlights. Voltmeter reads 13.7 VDC at idle. *At Idle*. Right after starting the motor. Nice!

I would have been happy with seeing 12.5 VDC, a non-discharging battery indication, at idle.

Changed halogens to LEDs, now the voltmeter reads 14.1-14.3 VDC at idle.

As you folks have written, this electrical system is very robust. At this time, there's no need for me to consider installing a series regulator, it's not needed by me, right now (if I add heated gear, the DVM will tell me what I need to do next).