Anyone got this kind of corrosion in their wheels?

klingklang

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Here is the picture, This spring, I had to work on the tank because of the corrosion. I was feeling angry about that because the bike is 2016 and less then 40000km. Now this weekend, It was suppose to be only a normal rear tire change and now it is ending with bearings change and major rim works. I had a slow leak and know I know why.... When I tried to sand a bit the corrosion, look at the rim.... WTF....... So much frustrations...... No I don't live near the sea and the bike is on the road or in the garage except when I travel.

20200705_165032 (Medium).jpg 20200705_172313 (Medium).jpg 20200705_172324_HDR (Medium).jpg
 

magic

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A couple of things come to mind. What do you use for lubricant when mounting new tires? The old favorite dish soap has some ingredients that can cause corrosion on your wheels. As for the tank, do you store it full of gas? I have some nearly 50 year old bikes with zero corrosion in the tanks. I always store them full of gas with stabilizer.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . I always store them full of gas with stabilizer.
My dad got me doing that w a a a y back. Also told me to keep it over half full, for the same reason. (we were living in the state of Washington at the time) I do think that practice is more critical in metal tanks. . . . but, more moist air, is more moist air. Especially up in y'alls neck of the woods.
 
R

RonH

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Dishsoap is like acid to aluminum wheels. My guess is that is the lube that has been used.
 

Don in Lodi

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I'm seeing that a lot in the automotive industry. I've always suspected it was the lube, it's so specific where it happens. I use a wire wheel for cleaning and apply a black rubber liquid sealant over the rot. Seems to work.
 
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ballisticexchris

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I have used both WD40 and dish soap for mounting and have never seen corrosion like that. The last quite a few seasons I use the Yamaha spray lube for mounting. It works really well and not messy. My problem is not corrosion but tire spoon marks. I always seem to be careful the first few times mounting, then I get lazy and not protect the rims. I had to sand out a few gouge marks where the tire seats up against the rim this last tire install.
 

Checkswrecks

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Here is the picture, This spring, I had to work on the tank because of the corrosion. I was feeling angry about that because the bike is 2016 and less then 40000km. Now this weekend, It was suppose to be only a normal rear tire change and now it is ending with bearings change and major rim works. I had a slow leak and know I know why.... When I tried to sand a bit the corrosion, look at the rim.... WTF....... So much frustrations...... No I don't live near the sea and the bike is on the road or in the garage except when I travel.

View attachment 68827 View attachment 68828 View attachment 68829
As implied by the others, the wheel corrosion is a self-inflicted problem. Wheel bearing life tends to relate to how much water the wheels see and this is in general, not unique to the Tenere.

The tank inlet and the spot on the bottom have been mentioned occasionally since probably 2012 and they tend to get to a point where they just don't get worse.

Since you seem to be paying attention to mx, watch for the rear disc to groove and then pads wear after about 12-15,000 miles. Obviously pads and discs are wear items but you can replace discs a lot less often if you just watch the thickness of the pads. You'll also find that you can prevent problems by pulling apart the rear suspension pivots and lubing them so they won't corrode. All of this has been discussed numerous times here on the forum and in the grand scheme, pretty normal for a Japanese bike.
 

Wallkeeper

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Aluminum is pH sensitive. High or low pH will strip the oxide layer and cause corrosion cells in the area as the aluminum reoxidizes. The cell stops after the the alkalinity is consumed making that "white stuff" in picture 1.

Most cleaners are alkaline with pH ranging from 9-14. Really helps with the cleaning but not so good with aluminum. I still use soap on steel rims but not on aluminum since it is really hard to get it all off after mounting a tire.

For repair, I suggest cleaning to bright substrate and coating with an epoxy or other hi performance coating

As an FYI, it appears the wheels are E-coated so the coating is only 15-20 microns. Not the best protection in the world but works well getting full coverage with film continuity
 

Cycledude

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Been using No Mar Paste for 10 or more years, the gallon jug with a cap that’s big enough to easily get your hand inside, it’s definitely my favorite tire-rim lube. I have also used their spray but highly prefer the paste because it stays exactly where you put it, i believe it’s a vegetable based paste.
Stopped at the No Mar shop With my Goldwing on the way home from Arkansas , Paid $20 and no crazy shipping fee, I will probably never need to buy tire lube again.

Nomar makes a good tire lube paste and spray. Safe for aluminum wheels.


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RonH

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Yea, I also use and recommend the Nomar paste. Like said above, mix some with water for a spray lube, or use it full strength with a brush. They say it only has a year or so shelf life, but mine is close to 10yrs old and it still does the job just fine. After having air leaks from corrosion from using dish soap 15yrs back I went to Nomar and never have problems.
 

klingklang

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Yes I use dishwasher soap and not much, I hate when it is messy. But I change my tires as I always did. Take care of the bike as I always did. My 2000 triumph tiger that I change for the s.tenere in 2017 with a lot more km on it and all those years never had a single spot of rust under the tank as it is common on the super ten, or any other place on the bike....ok ok ok the tank was in plastic.... Never had any oxidation on the wheel and was probably with less "aesthetics prejudice" than this bike at 4-5 years old. Anyway, soap or no soap, I need to cake care of this ans think I shouldn't have..... I still doubts the soap thing, maybe if it was on bare aluminum but those are painted, thin and cheap, but painted...... and on their TV ad, they save baby ducks with it.......;)
 

WJBertrand

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Once you have the tiniest scratch the alkali in most detergents will use that as starting point and then spread rapidly under the paint.
 

WJBertrand

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Not painted, plated.
I wasn’t sure because on my rear wheel, the black color (what ever it is) chipped off pretty severely, leaving lots of bare metal areas exposed. Pretty poor plating if that’s what it is. The chipping / flaking happened on the flat parts on either side of the spoke flange, nowhere near where a tire iron could have done it. Looking at the way it flaked off I assumed it was painted because I’ve never seen an anodized surface do that. In my case however, it’s painted now as I sanded and sprayed it last time I fitted a new tire.


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Jlq1969

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I wasn’t sure because on my rear wheel, the black color (what ever it is) chipped off pretty severely, leaving lots of bare metal areas exposed. Pretty poor plating if that’s what it is. The chipping / flaking happened on the flat parts on either side of the spoke flange, nowhere near where a tire iron could have done it. Looking at the way it flaked off I assumed it was painted because I’ve never seen an anodized surface do that. In my case however, it’s painted now as I sanded and sprayed it last time I fitted a new tire.


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If oxidation of aluminum should occur, that would be the indicated place, the place where the aluminum is in contact with another metal, in this case, the spokes ..... this is apart from the oxidation by substance to alkaline or acid as previously mentioned
 
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