Another Clutch rebuild

staq50

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Oct 13, 2019
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72
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Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Well. finally got over the god dam clutch rattle and banging around in my 2012. I originally took the clutch out 1 year ago before my 10 day tour fully loaded 2 up, thinking that maybe the clutch wouldn't handle the pace...It did, with no issues, but noticed then the tell tale marks of wear and sag on 3 of the springs...a year later bit the bullet and have had enough, options were, buy a new basket at $750.00 NZ, or, me being me, consider a rebuild....., because any metal on metal bashing in any motor is not satifactory and just downright wrong ...so after late nights in bed thinking of options and mental rebuilds, as one does lol, so the clutch is now out, and here we are...
So we all know by now that these clutches are rattly noisy, but, why?
first pics show the wear marks on the springs, or as I would say 'impact' marks....I should say now that this bike does have 74.000 k's...pretty reasonable for this bike
also the 'yellow' springs have sagged by 1.5 mm making them rattle, the blue springs are still tight. so this is where the noise comes from......the 'yellow' springs.....now to work at the repair.
also before we carry on I see that the 'yellow' springs have one less wind, and also made of a little thicker wire....so there are two different springs with different tensions.....'yellow having more tension than the blues. from the looks of this system it actually seems that the 'yellow' springs are designed to be loose? where the clutch takes up on drive on the blue then progress to the yellow heavier springs....you really cannot have them all tight and have a progressive spring rate..so if this is so and the 'yellow' are loose from factory....bad idea..right..asking for a noisey system right off...no wonder they changed in 2014....
so instead of posting heaps of pics of the process I'll walk you Quicly through what I did........Firstly, was to drill out the three rivets that hold this all together....simple, as they are only mild not hardened so drill straight out....pull everything out, spring plate, gear and spacers, there is a clip on youtube of a R1 rebuild and pretty much the same system parts, I wanted to keep options open if I wanted to change a mod, so didn't want to re rivet back together so I did this....as the rivet through holes were 9mm, and I wanted a sytem to hold but dissasemble again, I opted for 3/8 UNF HT countersunk cap screws and nuts....... 3/8 is close to 9mm so only just reemed out rivet holes and spacers....easy again. so, I can now 'bolt this back together. .now your thinking WTF....bolt together...not for purists...lol. right...yea me to..will it work? lol. visions of clutch explodes and total mess....so what I did now for the spring fix was, and seems pretty simple is to make new springs to replace the sagged 'yellows' so that's what I did, down to my spring man ..I actually decided to make the springs the same wire thickness and wind as the blue springs...making all springs the same throughout, like any other clutch........as my spring man didn't have a tension tool strong enough to gauge the yellows tensions under a certain load.....that's one reason why I opted for that....
next is to bolt this whole thing up and give it a go...... before I bolted together, and was useing countersunk cap screws I did countersink the heads into the basket as per pic..... reason is here you cannot go too high in the screw head because it will connect with the centre hub..so keep low as pos. so with everything bolted back together now was the time to reduce the nut size and radius the corners to make sure this side does not come into contact with anything in the case.....sorted, assembled with locktight and puched the nuts for extra precaution.....see pic with new springs installed, still having visions of clutch explosions..lol...but looking good...

next episode will be install and run to see if the new springs and there spring rates work............
 

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~TABASCO~

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Really nice job....

Why not just throw a 2014+ basket and move forward ?
 

SkunkWorks

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My question would be: "What are those Springs contacting behind the basket that would cause them to wear like that?"
Is this a common issue with the earlier engines? Or did something come loose where it's not supposed to be?
I would say Good-Catch before more failure occurred.
 

mran

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Sep 30, 2020
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Wisconsin
Looks good i would peen the bolts and loc tite. Oh see you did that good thinking. Any idea where we could purchase springs. This seems like a easy cheap fix or rebuild..

The spring hit anything on the back of the cases or is it just from rotating in the basket?

Let us know how it goes great job man
 

staq50

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Oct 13, 2019
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Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
My question would be: "What are those Springs contacting behind the basket that would cause them to wear like that?"
Is this a common issue with the earlier engines? Or did something come loose where it's not supposed to be?
I would say Good-Catch before more failure occurred.
[/QUO
Looks good i would peen the bolts and loc tite. Oh see you did that good thinking. Any idea where we could purchase springs. This seems like a easy cheap fix or rebuild..

The spring hit anything on the back of the cases or is it just from rotating in the basket?

Let us know how it goes great job man
hard to say where the springs are contacting, there are no apparent witness marks but would say they are wearing on the back plate, the flared plate, the seat plate is not showing any contact area..
 
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staq50

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Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
72
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Looks good i would peen the bolts and loc tite. Oh see you did that good thinking. Any idea where we could purchase springs. This seems like a easy cheap fix or rebuild..

The spring hit anything on the back of the cases or is it just from rotating in the basket?

Let us know how it goes great job man
I had the springs made by a spring manufacturer here,
 

staq50

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Oct 13, 2019
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Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Ok, now for an update the clutch mod on my Gen 1. here
been a tad busy but after installation but was able to test run it on the weekend, the result was a big difference in the actual running of this bike, with smoother power delivery right through the rev range, and of course got rid of the rattle that plagues these models, before the mod I had, and like some others have posted, a rough patch between 2.5 and 3k rpm this had completely gone and just rolls straight through....I'm picking that would have been somewhere near the point where the basket springs were lagging between the blue, (softer) and the take up to the heavier yellow sagged springs at drive in the factory set up....so now that I have the 6 springs at the same tension it has solved this harshness.....So, is this the end of the mod experiment ...well actually no...
so I now know that taking out the slightly heavier yellow sagged springs and installing new ones the same as the blues tension, it fixes the rough running and noise and bike runs nicely ..but is it enough? yes and no, I have noticed at idle, in neutral, that if I snap the throttle open hard(ish) the basket drive gear will just bottom out the drive to it's stops...which tells me the springs are all compressing to the max, that is how much torque this motor has ...huge amounts.....under normal riding circumstances this will not be an issue and you could ride like this no problems....... but, now leads me to consider that this basket would benefit from 3 heavier springs......so out it comes again for Mod #2, to get 3 heavier springs same tension as yellows made to replace the 3 new ones installed, only problem is my spring maker is on holiday....so I have installed the yellow springs back in but made some collets to fit to take up the sag...and reinstalled......forgot to take a pic of these,.....oh. and as I had bolted this all together so as I could just unbolt and mod again if needed, I had a bit of a hard time removing the nuts as they were lock tightened and peened, so this was Never going to come apart and believe this to be stronger than the original riveting...I just re bolted back together again.......So I've test run and same results as with before, smooth delivery and less noise.throughout the rev range......mint.
So what this all comes down to is........
with the yellow springs being loose causing rattles and banging, and sagging under power deliver (throttle) a re tension or renew springs is all that it needs..........
Gen I owners can do this clutch mod very simply at home with no special tools.....only need to have 3 new springs made. or fit collets to take up the sag on original springs.... and at next to no cost, only cost me $50 for new springs, and $10 for cap screws and nuts .....a new Basket was going to cost me over $750 NZ......these Baskets are very easy to take apart, the factory rivets are mild and just drill the heads off and push them out.....I used 3/8 UNF countersunk cap screws and nuts to bolt together....and it won't fall apart.
 

gunslinger_006

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May 21, 2016
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Seattle, Washington
I have this rattle too. Never bothered me once i understood what it was.

The barnett clutch plate with the hd springs is only $184usd.

I am thinking of dropping this in, thoughts?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

staq50

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Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
72
Location
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
I have this rattle too. Never bothered me once i understood what it was.

The barnett clutch plate with the hd springs is only $184usd.

I am thinking of dropping this in, thoughts?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
this conversion is to replace the diaphragm spring system, my thoughts are it's cheap enough, but is it necessary? I've thought about it but can't see the overall gain, not many of us have had probs with the diaphragm spring system which is light and and quite progressive itself....others here have done this so maybe have their thoughts...
 

twinrider

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When I changed my Gen I's clutch, I also swapped out the basket for the Gen II version. Hooked up much more smoothly and could pull higher gears at low RPMs without any judder.
 

twinrider

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I should add that my Gen 1 in stock form had enough buzzy vibration to put my throttle hand to sleep at around 3500 RPM, right where I found myself on highways. The ECU flash got rid of enough of it to stop my hand from growing numb -- probably 80 percent -- and the Gen II clutch basket swap eliminated the rest.
 
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