Alternator output?

[chickey191]

Can't find on any of the tests what the alternator output for the Super T is? Anyone know?
I am a Long Distance rider and farkle the heck out of bikes - GPS, Radar, HID lighting, heated grips as well as heated vest and gloves. So the ST with ABS and the assorted electronics - gotta wonder what the output is. My FJR is marginal and I'm riding a 2006 which the Gen 2 bikes are way better than Gen 1, but still need to be careful about which particular accessories are used.

 

[Jakeboy]

I believe its 550 or 600 watts.

 

[chickey191]

550 would be kinda slim and 600 marginal, but of course what really counts is how much of that is above what the bike needs when running all it's accessories and bulbs and brakes and such.

 

[markjenn]

Spec is 600 watts (42.9A at 14V). That's pretty generous by Japanese bike standards (much better than the original FJR and even a little above the current one), although BMW's typically do better. We'll need to know what the baseline draw on the bike is before we'll know exactly how much headroom there is.

But to the OP, if your newer FJR is marginal, the S10 probably will be too. You may have to go over to the dark side (a BMW GS at 720W with their automotive-style systems) to be able to run everything comfortably.

- Mark

 

[Swagger]

Surely it's just a matter of farkle management. Will you have everything powered up all at once?

 

[HoebSTer]

Surely it's just a matter of farkle management. Will you have everything powered up all at once?

This is a good question to ask? The Honda ST1300 were in that range as well for wattage I think and no one seemd to have any issues with them at all.

 

[chickey191]

whether or not everything is on - depends:
1 GPS - most always on - not much in power requirement
2. Valentine 1 - - pretty much always on - unless raining
3. HID's on only at night and only as traffic allows
4. Heated grips - or heated gloves - depends on weather, but ride all year and though I live in So Cal I do ride into the Sierra's a lot and a couple of winter rallies like the White Stag - can get cold enough to run both gloves and grips
5. heated vest - actually use this pretty often as I can wear less layers this way
6. heated pants - has to be pretty cold to run these - but see #4.
7. Satellite radio - run most all the time
8. SPOT _ self powered

 

[HoebSTer]

hey chickey, I would think by your list that most of that stuff is running Milliamps at most. The heated gear is probably drawing 120 ish watts. I wold say you are fine.

 

[chickey191]

HID's aren't miliamps - but you are right for most of the stuff. Should be good if it is 600, but I would worry a bit about 550.
Plus - not sure what the RPM's need to be to generate maximum from the Alternator.

Still digging.

 

[HoebSTer]

yes of course i didn't mean the HID's. Those are almost equal to regular bulbs.

 

[Swagger]

I don't think you'll have a problem. I run quite a bit of kit off the Feejer but I do tend toward the management approach. Phone and GPS allowed to runoff of their internal power source for the most part if I'm running other kit. Heated grips only when absolutely necessary ..... I'm a hot blooded animal and don't feel the cold. Spots on most of the time, no radio although sometimes listen to tunes from the iphone. Always plugged into battery tender at the end of the day.

 

[markjenn]

You generally are Okay until you starting running aux lights AND two or three pieces of heated gear. All the other stuff is noise level.

- Mark

 

[chickey191]

Spec is 600 watts (42.9A at 14V). That's pretty generous by Japanese bike standards (much better than the original FJR and even a little above the current one), although BMW's typically do better. We'll need to know what the baseline draw on the bike is before we'll know exactly how much headroom there is.

But to the OP, if your newer FJR is marginal, the S10 probably will be too. You may have to go over to the dark side (a BMW GS at 720W with their automotive-style systems) to be able to run everything comfortably.

- Mark

thanks Mark - 43.9x14 =600 plus a very small smidge - but it also means that the rpms need to be high enough to generate the 14v - and that the battery will need to be "topped off" to allow for 14v. The reason it is marginal is that on the fjr - similar output - I can run my stuff, but I do have to have some care. Normally, heated gear and extra lights kind of go together (colder at nigh, etc) - all the other stuff is marginal. Just means that I don't add a coffee maker to the mix - and that any additional stuff must be added with some care and careful wiring/fusing etc. Also - it means that I ride conservatively when it comes to power.... example - should I be in stop and go traffic or slow traffic or perhaps stopped on the side of the road. I would probably shut stuff off. 1.. probably wont be running hid's in that situation - but if I were - I would probably shut them them down. Heated gear not as necessary at low speeds as at high - so I could cut them off at least periodically. If it was really serious - I probably don't need the V-1 in that kind of riding, either.
but over all - marginal just means to be careful about adding power hungry equipment - opting for lower amperage if available (for example - Widder gear vs. Gerbing - even though you can't get Widder any more).

 

[Swagger]

...... I can run my stuff, but I do have to have some care ..... but over all - marginal just means to be careful about adding power hungry equipment .....

Wise words right there. This is what I mean when I refer to farkle management. I have also experienced the flakiness of the FJR's outputs ..... :

 

[doctorj]

I am going to get the Denali system (solstice LED setup with wiring etc.) so much less draw than halogens and cheaper than most HID set ups. Using those for driving lights (night use) will easily allow me to run heated grips, heated gloves and heated jacket liner---I am pretty sure. If decide to get real anal about it, I can switch to LED taillights and turn signals.

doctorj

 

[jajpko]

I am going to get the Denali system (solstice LED setup with wiring etc.) so much less draw than halogens and cheaper than most HID set ups. Using those for driving lights (night use) will easily allow me to run heated grips, heated gloves and heated jacket liner---I am pretty sure. If decide to get real anal about it, I can switch to LED taillights and turn signals.

doctorj

My thoughts also. I will use gloves and jacket liner but no grips. All lights except main will be LED. Should work with no problems and a bit to spare.. That is, as long as the bike does not suck up too much.

 

[mobyfubar]

If decide to get real anal about it, I can switch to LED taillights and turn signals.

The stock taillight is LED.

 

[Chadx]

I can't see how you would be marginal. The ST should easily handle what you've listed. My WRR only has 350 watts alt. and I run a heated liner (which pulls more that your vest), heated gloves and GPS all at once with no issues. Many others run those plus heated pants or heated socks or heated grips. If all that can be run on a 350watt alt., I see no reason the ST can't run all that plus HID lights and then a few other minor electronic gadgets...unless you are cruising at very low rpm for extended periods of time.

As mentioned by others, true output will depend on your cruising rpm, so low rpm will reduce available juice. A volt meter is handy to determine the state of your system if you are concerned about it. Granted, by the time you identify that your accessories draw too much, you've already purchased and added them, but in the instance that you absolutely NEED to run everything at the same time, you can drop a gear and spin more rpm to keep the available juice higher. If most of the time you don't run it all, you can keep that as a backup plan. But if you see the voltage just not staying up where it needs to be, you can rethink a couple things and swap to some of the really great LED driving lights that are out there (10watts each) or other low-draw accessories.