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ballisticexchris
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I’m not seeing it either! I will tell you that if the clutch gets abused enough in harsh conditions the standard fluid will boil and you will lose the clutch lever.
Adjusting clutch lever tension
- Thread starter RobinHartley
- Start date
Alright explain how that happens. The slave cylinder is all the way on the other side of the engine from the clutch. Dot 4 fluid boils at 400+ degrees. Even if the clutch pressure plate got that hot, the heat would have to travel through the clutch pushrod in order to get to the slave cylinder. I'm not saying the fluid won't boil if there's enough moisture in it, but if that were to somehow happen, how would having a bigger reservoir 4 feet away on the handlebar have any effect on it? Come on, they have small clutch fluid reservoirs simply because big ones aren't needed.
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ballisticexchris
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Most of us will not be abusing this clutch in rock crawling and such. I’m not an engineer. I’m just a guy who has experienced clutch slave failures on numerous occasions in off road situations. As soon as I changed the fluid clutch was like new. When using 600 fluid I have not had a failure yet. Of course I change brake and clutch fluid at least twice a season on my off road bikes.
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ballisticexchris
Guest
Oops I take that back! When my Beta was just setting last season I experienced a mushy lever before heading out for a day ride. I changed the fluid and all was good. The 600 fluid is notorious for collecting moisture. It needs to be flushed frequently. I’ll be using 5.1 in the ST. My Motul rep. highly recommends it for my application.
thughes317
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and........?
~TABASCO~
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You can add a Barnett pressure plate and add the "soft" springs. That will greatly reduce your left hand fatigue.
Just a little side note. I replace these small (cheep) parts in the clutch all the time. But they are a wear item and they are very sensitive to wear. A little wear will have a pretty big effects on clutch feel. I don't have the schematics pulled up. Maybe someone can find them and post the picture. It would be the throw out bearing push rod. The one that touches the ball bearing. Its not the bearing that wears, its the push rod.
For people that just sit at the light with they're bike in gear, pulling in the clutch, you are adding a lot of wear to this part. Its not a "bad" thing. You can ride the bike any way you want. But keep in mind that these 'type' riders SHOULD change this part out much more often. Its often over looked. But I have had conversations with probably 50++ customers on feed back after changing these few small parts. Every customer says the clutch feels / works better.
So, if you're in the clutch for a Barnett pressure plate or any other reason you should just change this push rod. I think it's about $10 or so.
You might thank me one day for the advice.
***** This would be considered a lot of wear. This is where the ball bearing pushes this rod over to the throwout bearing. You can see the divot.
***** I replace: 24 / 25 / 26
Just a little side note. I replace these small (cheep) parts in the clutch all the time. But they are a wear item and they are very sensitive to wear. A little wear will have a pretty big effects on clutch feel. I don't have the schematics pulled up. Maybe someone can find them and post the picture. It would be the throw out bearing push rod. The one that touches the ball bearing. Its not the bearing that wears, its the push rod.
For people that just sit at the light with they're bike in gear, pulling in the clutch, you are adding a lot of wear to this part. Its not a "bad" thing. You can ride the bike any way you want. But keep in mind that these 'type' riders SHOULD change this part out much more often. Its often over looked. But I have had conversations with probably 50++ customers on feed back after changing these few small parts. Every customer says the clutch feels / works better.
So, if you're in the clutch for a Barnett pressure plate or any other reason you should just change this push rod. I think it's about $10 or so.
You might thank me one day for the advice.
***** This would be considered a lot of wear. This is where the ball bearing pushes this rod over to the throwout bearing. You can see the divot.
***** I replace: 24 / 25 / 26
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ballisticexchris
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Thank you Jaxon!! Very good info. And yes I'm one of those guys who holds in their clutch at stoplights. Neutral is the enemy on CA streets and highways! I'm not sure if I want to put in aftermarket Barnett parts but I will keep an eye on my clutch and that rod. On my KTM/Beta I never thought of changing the rod out. I might just do that at next clutch service.....
Trust me the Barnett pressure plate make a huge difference in the release and feel of the clutch.
My concern would be that with the softer springs, and the torque that she puts out, the plates may start slipping. My 'ol 550 Seca's clutch started slipping when the OE springs became older/weaker. And the Seca had nowhere near the torque the Tenere has. I replaced the OE with standard Barnett springs, and the problem was solved; I don't remember the clutch pull being any harder though.
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It’s a little different. The Barnett uses coil springs. Actually the soft Barnett springs have more clamping force than the stock diaphragm type spring. So it wouldn’t be any less only a bit more with the Barnett. If you use the medium Barnett springs the hand pressure used is similar to stock but way more clamping pressure on the clutch pack.
I’ve been buried to the frame out in the Utah silt before. And working the engine and clutch. I’ve had no slipping and no clutch problems at all using the Barnett. I’m still on original clutch plates with all the “fun” off road I do. I use the medium springs.
EricV
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The clutch 'hub' uses coil springs on Gen I and elastomers on Gen II. The pressure plate uses a bellville type spring. #14.
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ballisticexchris
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Whats funny is these "diaphragm" style clutches are getting really popular. Even the new Husqvarna/KTM 2 strokes are using them. I'll wait until my ST clutch wears out before deciding if I want to go with aftermarket. For now I'm really liking the OEM clutches feel and feedback.
Yamaha engineers got it right with this clutch pack. It's extremely smooth and I can modulate it all the way down to walking pace with very little effort at the lever. The big test will be in harsh off road conditions such as deep sand. Time and milage will tell how durable this clutch really is.
~TABASCO~
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Ive tried it in about all off road conditions many-many times, and then ridden half way back across the US. Still going strong. Ive only helped one person with a completely melted ruined clutch. It happened in Colorado and I don't remember what he told me he was doing. But it melted the plates and threw melted aluminum all around in his engine. I probably still have pictures somewhere on my computer.
"Most" normal Super Tenere riders will easily get 100K++ miles on all stock clutch parts.
Way back when, I thought my FJ's clutch was slipping. So, I took the whole clutch pack into a dealer. First thing he did was to throw the "wear indicator" in the trash. (little wire that wrapped around the basket, between two plates) He told me everything appeared fine, and showed me the, at the time, "new style" spring. Turned out that after installing a 4-into-1 exhaust, and re-jetting, the back tire was braking loose....at highway speeds....with a passenger. Still running the same clutch, with the same spring. Now I just ease through the peak at 6,200rpm. Yeah, Yamaha knows their s**t....contrary to what many think.
Only if you exclude fuel pump gaskets, headlight wiring harnesses, main wiring harnesses, cam chain tensioners, clutch baskets etc, then Yamaha knows their s**t. Barnett builds a better clutch, that's a fact.
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ballisticexchris
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It’s all about maintaining your bike sir. All those things you listed should be checked and replaced as needed. As part of normal wear. Wiring harness needs to have all connections checked periodically.
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RonH
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I don't know if Barnett is the same company that sold clutch parts way back in the 1970s, but if so I would not use anything they sell. Those old clutch plates were horrible. It's been pretty much proven time after time over the years over the long run stay with factory clutch parts.
Of course now is different than 1978, so I hope aftermarket has better results now.
Of course now is different than 1978, so I hope aftermarket has better results now.
Of all the bike the bikes I've owned/ridden, I've never had a part FAIL. With exception of the Beemer. I've REPLACED numerous wear items; that's why they call them wear items. I also know there are "lemons" built/sold every day. Fortunately, I haven't had one. The Beemer wasn't a lemon; those were design flaws. Chris is right, maintenance it the key. People are always teasing/commenting on how my stuff lasts forever, and never breaks.