ABS light won’t go off

Niner1niner

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Good morning I have a 2012 Tenere my ABS light will not go off I’ve change the pads even jumped out the pump to try to get it to circulate but to no avail I’m not able to get the light to shut off , when I turn on the ignition on underneath the seat I hear a clicking noise and not sure that when I jumped the ABS pump off that the pump iscirculating any thoughts?
 

Checkswrecks

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Welcome aboard. It'd be great if you could introduce yourself in the Intros section.

If you've done maintenance and the ABS light was on, then the bike needs to roll about a 1/10 mile to reset the light.

The clicking is probably your fuel pump charging the injection system and a different subject.
 

Juan

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Not sure if the 2012 models need to roll before the ABS light goes off. The 2013 models (Gen 1 as well) do need to roll, but on earlier versions of Gen 1 the ABS light goes off before rolling.
 

EricV

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@N1N - What had you done prior to noticing that the ABS light wouldn't go off?

If everything was fine before you changed the pads, it may be something that occurred during your work. We often cause our own issues. :(

The Wheel speed sensors or damaged cable due to incorrect installation can cause an ABS light. Check the simple stuff first before you start worrying about the ABS pump.
 
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Checkswrecks

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LOL - As EricV wrote . . . .

It's real easy to forget to re-attach the wheelspeed sensor or leave the screw loose.
damhik
:rolleyes:
 

Niner1niner

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LOL - As EricV wrote . . . .

It's real easy to forget to re-attach the wheelspeed sensor or leave the screw loose.
damhik
:rolleyes:
@N1N - What had you done prior to noticing that the ABS light wouldn't go off?

If everything was fine before you changed the pads, it may be something that occurred during your work. We often cause our own issues. :(

The Wheel speed sensors or damaged cable due to incorrect installation can cause an ABS light. Check the simple stuff first before you start worrying about the ABS pump.
The abs light was on before changing pads, and after changing i did ride down the road and back and light remains on.
 

EricV

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Take a hard look at your sensors and cables to the wheel speed sensors. If you can't identify any damage, there is still a chance that one is bad. I would also check for codes and see what shows up. That may point you in the right direction.
 

Niner1niner

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Thanks to all, i will check wheel speed sensor & cable this weekend. I do have one question when i use rear brake it makes a very noticeable noise. ( not Front ) that's why i changed pads
 

EricV

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I do have one question when i use rear brake it makes a very noticeable noise. ( not Front ) that's why i changed pads
Sometimes... people accidentally get the pads both on one side of the rotor. This makes a lot of noise when braking. It's also possible to put the spacer in the wrong spot or bind the tension arm. I've also seen pads put in backwards, with the two metal back sides facing the rotor. That's pretty rare. It's not that hard when fitting the brake to accidentally get both pads on one side. Double check that first.

If that's ok, then what color is the rotor? Blue would indicate excess heat. Do you feel pulsing in the foot pedal when you use the rear brake only?
 

Niner1niner

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Sometimes... people accidentally get the pads both on one side of the rotor. This makes a lot of noise when braking. It's also possible to put the spacer in the wrong spot or bind the tension arm. I've also seen pads put in backwards, with the two metal back sides facing the rotor. That's pretty rare. It's not that hard when fitting the brake to accidentally get both pads on one side. Double check that first.

If that's ok, then what color is the rotor? Blue would indicate excess heat. Do you feel pulsing in the foot pedal when you use the rear brake only?
I will check when I get home today however when I hit the rear brake Hard it was come to a skid which would lead me to believe that the ABS system is not working
 

EricV

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If the pads are installed wrong, it can skid regardless of ABS. You have the ABS light on, so there is some issue there too. You may have the sensor installed wrong or loose, which could account for the noise and ABS light.

You might want to consider buying a Factory Shop Manual. It gives testing procedures for the sensors and shows diagrams for the various assemblies like the brakes, cable routing, etc. The link is to a real paper FSM, not an illegal copy or DVD. That's a good price too, unless you can find a used one.
 

Cycledude

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When the rear wheel bearing went out on my 2013 at 45,000 miles the rear brake didn’t work right and made noise but the ABS light never came on, just to be safe I think you should check your rear wheel bearings.
 

Niner1niner

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So my buddy decided to pull the cover to gain access to the abs pump and connectors . He cleaned all the connection points and reassembled the abs light went off good news however im still getting a squealing noise intermittently when riding down the road even if im not hitting the rear brake and when i do hit brake had i can feel a pulsating in the pedal but brake works great. I am thinking about bleeding brake assembly any thoughts ?
 

EricV

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Glad you got the ABS light to go off. It never hurts to bleed the system, but do the entire system, starting with the front, then the rear. If you're really feeling the moment, do the clutch as well. Normal DOT 4 fluid is best.

The pulsating can be warped rotors, but also just pad build up. Pad material can build up on the rotors and it will give that same pulsing feeling. You can sand the rotor with some emory cloth or just some 200-220 grit sandpaper and work your way around both sides of the rotor. Ideally in an orbital motion. Not so hard that you are rounding off edges, just staying flat to the rotor and work your way around. This will remove any glazing and pad build up. Then go for a ride and see how the rear brake feels. If no change, probably warped. Some live with it, others replace the rotor. Brakes still work.

Warpage usually happens when the rotor gets very hot, then you stop and hold the brakes on for an extended period of time. Sometimes a long traffic light at the bottom of a long hill can be enough to cause warpage if you're not careful and had to use the brakes a lot on the way down due to traffic or other conditions. The pad cools that spot on the rotor faster than the rest of the rotor, which creates the warp.
 

Niner1niner

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Check your rotors. They may be warped alo bearings.
When i took the rear wheel off i found a couple things wrong, first the collar wheel that houses the wheel sensor had broken the tab that holds the collar from rotating broke so the collar wheel rotated forward. Second the wheel bearings were bad. I ordered parts i will keep you all updated.

Thanks to all
 

EricV

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The collar with the broken tip - that usually occurs when it either gets put on out of position, or put on with the tip right on where the locator is and it gets broken when tightened down. Mostly, it's out of position, spins at a rapid speed, breaks tip off and simultaneously damages the speed sensor cable.

From Part Shark -
Housing, Sensor Rear 23P-2537A-00-00 $54.58
Wheel Sensor Assy, Rear 23P-85980-00-00 $68.48

Typically they can be found used on Ebay too. One with cover and cable/sensor for $43.51 right now with free shipping. They don't really wear, so just because it's dirty wouldn't scare me off.
 
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