A wire for the high beams

Dogdaze

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Fuse? The brown wire I believe is directly coming from the ECU, dis-connect the lights, and make sure there is enough juice in the battery, check leads all tight then see if it'll start............
 

scott123007

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roadkilt said:
Soooooo- installed Denali D2s last night, tapping into the brown wire of the aux light harness so that the D2s are always at max brightness. Buttoned it all up last night - everything worked great. Lights, bike started, all good. Until this morning. Bike wont start. Urgh. Any ideas anyone?
Yup, you started the bike only briefly? If so, you now are flooded. There are different ways you can try to start it, but if you have a slight down hill nearby or if you can get a friend to help you push it, that works every time as long as you know THAT procedure.
 

roadkilt

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Thanks for the suggestion, guys. The weird thing is that I cant even get it to jump start. The starter cranks, seems to get it almost to start, almost sounds like the motor moves a little bit, but just keeps cranking. I hope I didn't fry something - but it started last night after I finished all the wiring so...Hmmm....
 

Checkswrecks

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Your posts aren't really clear about what state of charge the battery is in and what exactly is and is not turning. As for "almost to start" that could be a nearly discharged battery, or something else. Can you better define what is going on and what you've tried?


Start by making sure the battery has a full charge. Very briefly running a fuel injected engine (start/stop) can "confuse" the fuel injection and it also sounds like that's what you may have done. If charged and the starter IS turning the motor, hold full throttle and crank the starter for about 30 seconds. This is a well-known way to clear fuel injection issues on this and other vehicles. Don't do this a number of times in a row, as you can cook the starter.


If you mean that the starter turns and the engine doesn't, you are probably looking at an issue within the starter.
 

roadkilt

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Appreciate the help. When I turn on the ignition, all the correct lights etc come on and the injectors and speedo needle cycle normally. With the engine cut off to run, the start kick in immediately. I can hear and fell the motor "jerk" as if it is trying to catch. Have tried in both neutral and 1st with clutch in in center stand. When in first, on center stand, clutch in - the starter seems to get the motor to "catch" briefly enough to even move the rear wheel (registers abt. 3mph on the speedo) - but just continues intermittently "lurch", almost catch - but nothing. Of course I have probably flooded the damn thing by now. What I find most confusing is why it would not start when connected to a good battery. I'm sure its operator error somehow...lol!

Previous to this morning the battery has been in great shape, charges well, etc. Installed the aux lights last night. Started up fine last night. This morning - this festival of fun. No unreasonably cold night last night to tank an iffy battery - plus if it did I would still think it would start being jumped...But I am NO mechanic. Can you flood a fuel injected motor?
 

V35A

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Has anyone confirmed the location and color of the high beam wire for a 2014 ES model (US version)?
 

Don in Lodi

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Sounds like the dreaded "Hard Start". Wide Open Throttle, WOT, has been about the only semi proven thing to clear the trouble. And it may take a booster to have enough juice to crank it long enough.
 

Huero

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V35A said:
Has anyone confirmed the location and color of the high beam wire for a 2014 ES model (US version)?
V35A,
Did you ever find out if the wires are the same for the 14's and newer? I am wondering the same thing.
Thanks,
Huero
 

LearnedHand

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V35A,
Did you ever find out if the wires are the same for the 14's and newer? I am wondering the same thing.
Thanks,
Huero
Bumping this because I can’t find an answer to where the ES model high beam wire is. Trying to install a Skene dimmer. Thanks!
 

Skytower

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I forget which wire I used, but I'll tell you how I found it: Flick high beams off and on, while feeling the relays for one that clicks. Then put the meter on the leads to find out which one is getting turned on.
All the relays are under the right cover. I don't recall if it was under the top, right cover, or not.
 

LearnedHand

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I forget which wire I used, but I'll tell you how I found it: Flick high beams off and on, while feeling the relays for one that clicks. Then put the meter on the leads to find out which one is getting turned on.
All the relays are under the right cover. I don't recall if it was under the top, right cover, or not.
Thank you!
 

Sierra1

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I'm pretty sure it's one bulb with a mechanical shutter to cut off the top of the beam. That's why it looks weird at night. There's no voltage difference.
 

LearnedHand

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I'm pretty sure it's one bulb with a mechanical shutter to cut off the top of the beam. That's why it looks weird at night. There's no voltage difference.
It was the pink wire coming in from the headlight wiring harness. Aux light is up and running. Thanks!
 

Conflubmw

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If anyone can use this info, I took the headlight nacelle out of the bike and checked all the pins in the 6 pole plug that goes to it.
This is for a '17 Super. My wires are colored thusly:
1 - Green
2 - Blue
3 - Yellow
4 - Red
5 - Black
6 - Grey
The numbering sequence can be visually interperted in different locations by two different people, so, if your colors coming out of the plug are the same, I'd go with that.

Pins 5 and 6 (Black, Grey) are both ground (return) wires that are used for ½ the total load within the nacelle.

Pins 1 & 5 (Green, Black) are for the small marker lights located in the top corners of the headlamp. Since the bulbs are only 5 watts each, not much current on the green wire. On mine, it is a smaller gauge wire.

Pins 2 & 5 (Blue, Black) is for the left 55w halogen bulb.
Pins 3 & 6 (Yellow, Grey) is for the right 55w halogen bulb.

Pins 4 & 6 (Red, Grey) is the high beam shutter. In projector headlights, a single filament bulb is used for both LOW and HIGH beams, the shutter controlling the light that goes out through the front lens. Without the engine running, you can hear the solenoid activated shutter go THUMP when it engages or disengages. Voltage applied to the red wire (Pin 4?) activates the shutter. No voltage, and the spring loaded shutter returns to LOW beams. Didn't measure current draw, but the Red wire looks to be as thick (same gauge) as the others, except the green.
 

Sierra1

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Oddly enough, the top of my "high" beam is still cut off. Close to half is cut off on "low". I hate projector beams.
 

gunslinger_006

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I'm pretty sure it's one bulb with a mechanical shutter to cut off the top of the beam. That's why it looks weird at night. There's no voltage difference.
It is and that is the most japanese design feature i have ever seen. Its amazing that its so reliable m


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Conflubmw

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Oddly enough, the top of my "high" beam is still cut off. Close to half is cut off on "low". I hate projector beams.
I usually trust mechanical things, but other than burning out a H4 bulb, I would think, be more reliable than something mechanical to cut the beam in half. Any local bikes you can compare with? The front and back of the headlight nacelle snap together, I can see the clips around the edge. I always like to look up a price of something I don't know about before I attack it with tools. The halves may have an o-ring to seal it with the snap-on clips, or it may be glued. Hope you get your problem solved.
 
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