A Plug and Play Harness for Installing the Safe Turn System (STS auto self-cancelling) Turn Signal kit

smitty31093

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
17
Location
Warner Robins, GA
I finally got my STS installed. Thanks to Sparrow Hawkxx for all his help and links. I installed it without the use of a jumper. I simply cut the wire as the instructions call for. I used the bullet connectors provided in the kit. Once I took the dikes in my hand and actually cut the wires it wasn't actually that hard to do the wiring part of the install. My Gen 2 did have the white/yellow, white/ black and blue/red colored wires. The next challenge was taking the switch assembly on the handle bar apart. The ES has extra wires in the upper half of the assembly and it took a little pulling, twisting and cursing to get enough slack to get to the screws in the clamp that holds the lower part of the switch assembly to the handle bar. I had to remove my left mirror and the inside mount for the hand guard off to get the switch gear removed. I used the thin sponges to keep the turn signal lever from locking in place. I initially mounted the sensor block on top of the electrical tray close to the V area but when I went to install the upper cowl I discovered the sensor block was hitting and the cowl would not fit. I had to move the sensor block back toward the top cowl mounting screw to have enough clearance for the cowl to fit. Initially the system seemed to work perfectly. When I turn on the key, the turn signals blink just like they are supposed to. On my test ride the first few turns were perfect. I activated the left turn switch and after the turn the signal cancelled. Same thing on the right turn; perfect. A few turns later I hit the left turn switch and nothing happened. I hit the right turn and it came on so I immediately switched to the left turn and it came on. The right seemed to work every time. The left was prone to misfire. I found out if I pushed in on the switch and then pushed it over to the left the signal worked. I practiced lane changes and the system worked flawlessly. One think I noticed is I could not manually cut the turn signals off. When I push in on the switch the blinkers keep blinking. Oh well, I have messed with this thing enough for today. I will wait for any suggestions as to what the fix may be and work on it more later. I figure the sensor block will probably have to move to better location.
 

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smitty31093

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
17
Location
Warner Robins, GA
Great, you got it working. This unit has worked well for me.

To cancel a signal with the STS you push it back the same way that you initiated the signal, the center push to cancel will not work. See the bottom of page 2 of the STS Installation Manual, in the section: How it works? - User manual

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It sounds like you may need to check the position of the foam pads in the switch.
When I completed the installation on mine, I turned the ignition on and activated the signal switch but nothing flashed. I rechecked all my connections and everything looked right, then I remembered that I had seen an installation video that someone had on youtube and they had the same problem. They had inserted the foam pads too deep into the switch.

I opened my switch housing up again and reinserted the pads just far enough so I could get the switch housing back together. Everything worked good after that. (I also used the thin pads)

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I am surprised you had clearance problems with the STS module on the top shelf. I had no clearance issues mounting it there. Are you sure it wasn't the STS module cable that was the problem?
You can see my picture in my installation notes that I drilled small holes in the top shelf so I could use zip ties to secure the cable and the module. The top shelf is on a slope so I put a spacer under the front of the module so that it was level as per the instructions.
I posted some pics of my install. The pic with the pvc spacer under my STS module is the one I had clearance issues with. I moved the bundle of wires from my XM radio forward and mounted the module where these coiled up wires were. I will definitely take a look at the foam pads to make sure they are where they need to be. It makes sense that this could be the problem. I was too tired to mess with it any more today. Thanks again for your help.
 

S10Newbie

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Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
4
Hi, I'm new here, new to the Super Tenere. I bought mine about 3 months ago. I ordered the Safer turn kit for it, and am hoping to install it as soon as it arrives.
What year is your S10? It looks like all the wiring is accessible under the right side cover, without moving the fuel tank. Is that correct?
Thx, in advance.
 

smitty31093

New Member
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
17
Location
Warner Robins, GA
Yes, all the wiring is accessible under the lower cowl on the right side. you will need to take the blinker control switch assy apart on the handlebar. Depending on which generation your ST is the wiring in the STS instructions may or may not be correct. The best thing to do is look in the handlebar switch to check the wiring color. My ST is a 2015 model. I did not use a jumper to install mine. I just cut the factory wiring like the instructions said. It is a little nerve wracking when cutting wires but take your time and it will be so worth it. My system works like a champ. Good luck.
 

S10Newbie

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
4
For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

Can I ask how you found the correct plugs to tap into the wiring harness? I bought them for my Tenere, and just received the STS kit today, but I also have a KLR 650 and if it works out as expected on the Tenere, I might put on in the KLR.

Thx, in advance
 

Gigitt

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2015
Messages
427
Location
Sydney Australia
Can I ask how you found the correct plugs to tap into the wiring harness? I bought them for my Tenere, and just received the STS kit today, but I also have a KLR 650 and if it works out as expected on the Tenere, I might put on in the KLR.

Thx, in advance
The turn signal connector harness is in the upper big black boot.
See my post here with pics of the boots and where I installed the STS unit.
 
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