A Plug and Play Harness for Installing the Safe Turn System (STS auto self-cancelling) Turn Signal kit

[azokie]

For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

 

[Jdomperez]

For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

Can we please see pics of your harness in interest to build one ourselves!

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

 

[gunslinger_006]

Jesus christ that is a lot of work to get slightly better self cancelling turn signals.

 

[Thrasherg]

That’s exactly what I did, your description makes it sound like more work than it was but I do like the STS system, it sometimes cancels the indicators sooner than i would like, but it works well (not as good as the goldwing system in my opinion but still very good). The only annoying thing with the STS system is that during the install, you have to power up the unit without the indicators connected, just the turn switch, so this means the additional harness still has to have a means to power up the unit but without the lights being connected, if the lights are connected the unit will not initialize itself! so I made the additional wiring harness but with the wires for the lights cut in the middle, then powered the unit up so it initialized correctly, then soldered the cut wires and fitted heat shrink. I dont like having a wires harness with cuts and joins in it! But given the required initialization sequence it seemed the easiest solution. I was worried the rubber pads that are fitted in the switch to make the switch return to center would fail after some time, I still have that concern, but my STS system has been on my bike over 2 years and still works great, not a single problem with it..

Gary

 

[azokie]

Can we please see pics of your harness in interest to build one ourselves!

Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk

Here is a pic of the completed harness. I probably had too much detail in the description making it read like a lot of work. It took me about an hour including the initial testing and then soldering after I had pieced together the ends of the pig tails making sure the pin locations on the male and female connectors matched.

 

[azokie]

Here is a pic of the completed harness. I probably had too much detail in the description making it read like a lot of work. It took me about an hour including the initial testing and then soldering after I had pieced together the ends of the pig tails making sure the pin locations on the male and female connectors matched.

And, for those who want to see more pictures of the project start to finish, I have some photos. They are not the best but they do show the connectors and wiring. Send me an e mail and i will send them to you. Send to jlwilson0207@gmail.com.

 

[WJBertrand]

Nice job John!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[azokie]

For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

 

[azokie]

UP DATE. Installed the Safe Turn System this week end. The plug and play harness takes the concern away about cutting the OEM harness. The only issue I had was my own error as I put the male bullet connector on my harness where the female bullets go. An easy correction. Went for a test ride today and the turn signals cancelled just as advertised. I made a second plug and play (just in case) harness that I no longer need. It has been tested and has the three wires to be cut grouped away from the main harness wires. I know it works on my 2019 Gen 2 ES and have no reason to believe it will not work on all Gen 2 Super Tenere with or without ES. I will sell it to a member here for $42 via PayPal. That is what I have in it for what I paid for the materials shipped to me. I may also put it for sale on adventure Rider if no takers here. Send me an e mail ( jlwilson0207@gmail.com) if you want the harness.

 

[Cycledude]

Told safer turn a couple years ago I’d be interested in buying one of their units if it was plug and play but they just kept trying to tell me it was a very simple job.

 

[Xclimation]

I did the same a year ago (made a jumper harness). There is/was another thread here I used as a guide.. Where did you mount the STS unit? Mounting the unit and getting it level was a little bit of a challenge. I feel that If I had a better location, my STS might work better. Works perfect on turns. On lane changes I have to exaggerate leaning to get it to self cancel.

 

[Gigitt]

Here is my plug and play harness:

STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review

Bought one of these a year ago (https://www.safer-turn.com/us/) and finally got around to pulling it off the bench and installing it this weekend. This is a pretty cool little gadget and it works really well, brilliantly in fact. It's even sensitive enough to detect a lane change unless you...

www.yamahasupertenere.com

 

[azokie]

I did the same a year ago (made a jumper harness). There is/was another thread here I used as a guide.. Where did you mount the STS unit? Mounting the unit and getting it level was a little bit of a challenge. I feel that If I had a better location, my STS might work better. Works perfect on turns. On lane changes I have to exaggerate leaning to get it to self cancel.

I mounted the module in the bottom of the tool holder space. I used Velcro to secure the mounting. My tool pouch is still there. I just pushed it up a bit. This location allows the cable to be threaded up to the area of the location of the substitute harness and I have no issue locking the side access panel in place. I have not tested the unit enough to say it works on all situations but works for me on turns. I need to test on lane changes.

 

[LJM]

Nice Job, if I decide to buy the STS I'll defiantly send you $42 for the harness.
LJM

 

[smitty31093]

For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

For you Gen 2 Super Tenere Owners contemplating the installation of the STS System (https://safer-turn.com) but are reluctant because it requires cutting OEM wires, here is a way to avoid cutting the OEM wire loom. Make your own substitute wire harness.

Instructions for the STS, call for cutting the left, right and ground OEM wires running from the handlebar turn signal switch to the connection with the main or sub frame wire harness of the Super Tenere. If the STS is eventually removed, the cut wires can be connected back together with the remaining STS butt connectors. However, the cut wires still remain. A way to avoid cutting the OEM bike wires is to build a wire harness with male and female connectors that will mate with the existing bike connectors and cut the wires on the substitute harness in lieu of cutting the OEM wires. If the STS is removed, simply reconnect the exiting OEM male and female connectors. Thus, a plug and play solution.

I have not received my STS yet, but I have made a plug and play type harness in preparation of the install. My Super Tenere (2019 ES model) uses a male and female 10 pin Sumitomo TS025 connector wire loom located under the right side access panel housed in a large plastic sheath. Rather than cut the OEM wires that run between the male and female 10 pin connectors, I made a substitute harness.

Through research, I discovered that late model Toyota and Lexus autos use the same 10 pin Sumitomo connectors in their cruise control and safe distance modules. . I found the ten pin Sumitomo male and female connectors that match up with the OEM connectors on line at Bmotorsports.com. Part numbers CONN-85925 (female) and CONN-86145 (male). The connectors were about $15 a piece, plus shipping when I bought them. You might be able to acquire these from a Toyota or Lexus dealer but my research indicates they would be more expensive through that route. The connectors come with 8 inches of black pigtail wire. I cut the pig tails down to three inches of wire on each on the male and female connector so that my new harness wires were 6 inches long. The new harness could be a little shorter but 6 inches provides more access to the cut wires, more room to work with the STS butt connectors and easier to stow away the substitute harness.

Before actually soldering the wires for a permanent substitute harness, I carefully matched the pins and wires on the purchased male and female connectors and put together the wires using Pinlock connectors. I plugged this temporary harness into the bike connectors to test the substitute harness to make sure all the functions controlled by the handlebar switch functioned as designed like the turn signals, the headlights, the cruise control switch and horn. After the successful test, I soldered all the connections and covered with heat shrink for weather protection.

From there, it is a matter of locating the three respective wires from the turn signal switch which are now on the substitute harness and making the installation without cutting the OEM wires. You can locate the appropriate three wires by checking continuity of the OEM wires with the turn signals switched on. The three respective wires on the substitute harness can be cut and follow the STS instructions the same as if you had cut the OEM wires. If you remove the STS system, you simply unplug the substitute harness and reconnect the existing male and female connectors.

I am about to pull my hair out trying to figure out where the plug is that I need to cut to install my STS. I have removed the upper and lower cowling on my '15 Super Tenere ES and have peeled back the rubber covering on every bundle of electrical plugs I can see. I don't see a plug that looks like any of the plugs I have seen posted on this forum. I have a 12 volt test light and have stuck every dark green and yellow wire I can see to see if the are turn signal wires. No luck. I don't really have a problem cutting wires and doing the splices but do want to make sure when i cut them they are the correct wires. Maybe someone could point me the right direction? Also, is the plug I am looking for between the battery and the flasher? Just wondering if I turn on a turn signal and then stick the wire with my test light if it will be flashing or just solid. LIke others have stated, a plug and play harness would be nice but heck I don't know yet which plug I would connect it to. HELP!

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

I installed the STS on my Gen1 bike around April 2019. I didn't like the idea of cutting wires on the bike so I went the route of building a jumper. My bike is a Gen1 and the connector is different on the Gen2 bikes.

There's several threads started on the STS. I'll try to get you the info for your Gen2 that you need to get started.

Location of the plug you need to access.
See the following thread:
STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review - Reply #20
Look at the 2nd attached picture. See the two large black boots, the connector is in the upper boot.
In this case, he's built a jumper. See below the boot, the jumper is the mostly white wires coming out of the left side of the boot. This end of the jumper is plugged into the OEM connector with the wire bundle that runs up to the signal switch housing on the handlebar. The other end of the jumper appears to be inside the boot where it plugs into the bike electrical system.

What the plug looks like
Here is a list of Sumitomo TS connectors from Cycle Terminal: list
The one on the Gen2 bikes is the Sumitomo 10 pin TS 025. See the male and female part of the connector at the bottom of the list of connectors.

More about the connectors
See the following thread: ST2 Smart Turn System Installation - Reply #28
See the pdf attachment at the bottom of Reply #28. The fourth page has a pin/wire color layout for the Gen2 connectors.

As for your last question on the flasher.
I believe you will see the flasher on the Blue/Red wire from the bike side of the connector. Just disconnect the plug and check the voltage on the connector on the right side.


I believe this info is correct for your Gen2 bike, just confirm everything for yourself as you go.
And here's another thread on the STS - Self Canceling Turn Signs....???

 

[smitty31093]

I installed the STS on my Gen1 bike around April 2019. I didn't like the idea of cutting wires on the bike so I went the route of building a jumper. My bike is a Gen1 and the connector is different on the Gen2 bikes.

There's several threads started on the STS. I'll try to get you the info for your Gen2 that you need to get started.

Location of the plug you need to access.
See the following thread:
STS Smart Turn self-canceling turn system thingy review - Reply #20
Look at the 2nd attached picture. See the two large black boots, the connector is in the upper boot.
In this case, he's built a jumper. See below the boot, the jumper is the mostly white wires coming out of the left side of the boot. This end of the jumper is plugged into the OEM connector with the wire bundle that runs up to the signal switch housing on the handlebar. The other end of the jumper appears to be inside the boot where it plugs into the bike electrical system.

What the plug looks like
Here is a list of Sumitomo TS connectors from Cycle Terminal: list
The one on the Gen2 bikes is the Sumitomo 10 pin TS 025. See the male and female part of the connector at the bottom of the list of connectors.

More about the connectors
See the following thread: ST2 Smart Turn System Installation - Reply #28
See the pdf attachment at the bottom of Reply #28. The fourth page has a pin/wire color layout for the Gen2 connectors.

As for your last question on the flasher.
I believe you will see the flasher on the Blue/Red wire from the bike side of the connector. Just disconnect the plug and check the voltage on the connector on the right side.


I believe this info is correct for your Gen2 bike, just confirm everything for yourself as you go.
And here's another thread on the STS - Self Canceling Turn Signs....???

Sparrow Hawk, Thank you very much for sharing all this information. I have found the plug with the turn signal wires that need to be cut. According to the information supplied by you I believe the wires on my Gen 2 ST are different colors from the instructions supplied with my STS unit. The problem I am having now is figuring out how to take the switch housing apart. I got the two screws out tha hold the top and bottom together but the wires going to the top half prevent me from raising the top half up enough to take the screws out of the clamp that hold the bottom half to the handlebar. I will have to take this apart to put the foam pads in but I also want to confirm the color of the wires inside to make sure I cut the correct wires down below. I don't want to pull on the wire in the switch housing too much because I don't want to mess up the switches in the top half of the housing.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

Sparrow Hawk, Thank you very much for sharing all this information. I have found the plug with the turn signal wires that need to be cut. According to the information supplied by you I believe the wires on my Gen 2 ST are different colors from the instructions supplied with my STS unit. The problem I am having now is figuring out how to take the switch housing apart. I got the two screws out tha hold the top and bottom together but the wires going to the top half prevent me from raising the top half up enough to take the screws out of the clamp that hold the bottom half to the handlebar. I will have to take this apart to put the foam pads in but I also want to confirm the color of the wires inside to make sure I cut the correct wires down below. I don't want to pull on the wire in the switch housing too much because I don't want to mess up the switches in the top half of the housing.

I went back to my jumper installation notes for my Gen1 jumper install (see thread, ST2 Smart Turn System Installation, starting at Reply #21). I know its long and boring but you might look through it. There may be other stuff in there that may be useful to you, such as where are you going to mount the STS module. I was happy with where I put mine.

I remember I had something in the notes about the Gen2 switch housing, and there was also something in there about the wire colors they listed in the installation manual. I will address these things below.

Wire colors
When I ordered my STS in Feb 2019 it came with an older installation manual that only had one color chart for the Yamaha wires. These were correct colors for the Gen1 but not the Gen2.
The new instructions have a superscript 2 In the Yamaha column. See the footnote at the bottom of the table:

2* Yamaha MT-10: Right - White/Yellow, Signal - Blue/Red, Left - White/Black​

The colors for the MT-10 I believe are the same as for the Gen2 Super Tenere.
When they say Signal, this is the line from the flasher that goes to the signal switch on the handlebar.

If you did not get the new instructions, go to the installation page
STS Installation Page. https://safer-turn.com/installation/

The Installation Page has:

1. short installation video
2. link to a current version of the STS Installation Manual (STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf)

The wire colors are also in the pdf file I reference in my previous reply.


switch housing
The switch housing is also different on the Gen2.

My understanding is the 2 screws on bottom allow you to remove the top half of the switch housing. Then to get to the switch you may need to remove 2 screws from a bracket that holds the lower half of the housing to the bars.
For more info, see the thread titled “loose handlebar switch assembly”, there is a diagram in Reply #15

 

[smitty31093]

I went back to my jumper installation notes for my Gen1 jumper install (see thread, ST2 Smart Turn System Installation, starting at Reply #21). I know its long and boring but you might look through it. There may be other stuff in there that may be useful to you, such as where are you going to mount the STS module. I was happy with where I put mine.

I remember I had something in the notes about the Gen2 switch housing, and there was also something in there about the wire colors they listed in the installation manual. I will address these things below.

Wire colors
When I ordered my STS in Feb 2019 it came with an older installation manual that only had one color chart for the Yamaha wires. These were correct colors for the Gen1 but not the Gen2.
The new instructions have a superscript 2 In the Yamaha column. See the footnote at the bottom of the table:

2* Yamaha MT-10: Right - White/Yellow, Signal - Blue/Red, Left - White/Black​

The colors for the MT-10 I believe are the same as for the Gen2 Super Tenere.
When they say Signal, this is the line from the flasher that goes to the signal switch on the handlebar.

If you did not get the new instructions, go to the installation page
STS Installation Page. https://safer-turn.com/installation/

The Installation Page has:

1. short installation video
2. link to a current version of the STS Installation Manual (STS_install_manual_ENv3.pdf)

The wire colors are also in the pdf file I reference in my previous reply.


switch housing
The switch housing is also different on the Gen2.

My understanding is the 2 screws on bottom allow you to remove the top half of the switch housing. Then to get to the switch you may need to remove 2 screws from a bracket that holds the lower half of the housing to the bars.
For more info, see the thread titled “loose handlebar switch assembly”, there is a diagram in Reply #15

I finally got my STS installed. Thanks to Sparrow Hawkxx for all his help and links. I installed it without the use of a jumper. I simply cut the wire as the instructions call for. I used the bullet connectors provided in the kit. Once I took the dikes in my hand and actually cut the wires it wasn't actually that hard to do the wiring part of the install. My Gen 2 did have the white/yellow, white/ black and blue/red colored wires. The next challenge was taking the switch assembly on the handle bar apart. The ES has extra wires in the upper half of the assembly and it took a little pulling, twisting and cursing to get enough slack to get to the screws in the clamp that holds the lower part of the switch assembly to the handle bar. I had to remove my left mirror and the inside mount for the hand guard off to get the switch gear removed. I used the thin sponges to keep the turn signal lever from locking in place. I initially mounted the sensor block on top of the electrical tray close to the V area but when I went to install the upper cowl I discovered the sensor block was hitting and the cowl would not fit. I had to move the sensor block back toward the top cowl mounting screw to have enough clearance for the cowl to fit. Initially the system seemed to work perfectly. When I turn on the key, the turn signals blink just like they are supposed to. On my test ride the first few turns were perfect. I activated the left turn switch and after the turn the signal cancelled. Same thing on the right turn; perfect. A few turns later I hit the left turn switch and nothing happened. I hit the right turn and it came on so I immediately switched to the left turn and it came on. The right seemed to work every time. The left was prone to misfire. I found out if I pushed in on the switch and then pushed it over to the left the signal worked. I practiced lane changes and the system worked flawlessly. One think I noticed is I could not manually cut the turn signals off. When I push in on the switch the blinkers keep blinking. Oh well, I have messed with this thing enough for today. I will wait for any suggestions as to what the fix may be and work on it more later. I figure the sensor block will probably have to move to better location.

 

[SparrowHawkxx]

Great, you got it working. This unit has worked well for me.

To cancel a signal with the STS you push it back the same way that you initiated the signal, the center push to cancel will not work. See the bottom of page 2 of the STS Installation Manual, in the section: How it works? - User manual

.
It sounds like you may need to check the position of the foam pads in the switch.
When I completed the installation on mine, I turned the ignition on and activated the signal switch but nothing flashed. I rechecked all my connections and everything looked right, then I remembered that I had seen an installation video that someone had on youtube and they had the same problem. They had inserted the foam pads too deep into the switch.

I opened my switch housing up again and reinserted the pads just far enough so I could get the switch housing back together. Everything worked good after that. (I also used the thin pads)

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I am surprised you had clearance problems with the STS module on the top shelf. I had no clearance issues mounting it there. Are you sure it wasn't the STS module cable that was the problem?
You can see my picture in my installation notes that I drilled small holes in the top shelf so I could use zip ties to secure the cable and the module. The top shelf is on a slope so I put a spacer under the front of the module so that it was level as per the instructions.