2016 ES fork oil change

Thrasherg

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Hi Peeps, I am sure this has been asked before, but a quick search didn't list anything. My ES is coming up on 20,000 miles, the engine has been regularly serviced, but the fork oil has never been changed so I figured it was time to do it. I have the Yamaha service manual for this bike, but under the maintenance section it does not list changing fork oil (apparently Yamaha don't consider this a service item!!). Anyway the manual explains how to completely disassemble the forks and put them back together and it states to use 01 fork oil and put 505cm3 in the left fork and 493cm3 in the right leg.
Can anyone tell me what grade 01 oil is? Is it 1W oil or is 01 oil a yamaha oil of a different grade? Also do we really add different amounts to each leg? I just wanted to unscrew the fork outer, drain the oil, add new oil and then screw the outer back on. The manual gives an oil level to be measured, but that requires removing the top of the fork and the springs, which is far more work than I really wanted to do.. Am open to any suggestions, I have been servicing motorcycles for many years and know how to strip forks, just don't want to for just an oil change..

Regards Gary
 

Wymbly1971

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Hi Gary. I can help with some of it. Yamaha 01 oil is the same as 5wt fork oil that you can buy anywhere.

As far as a change is concerned, I also wish that it was as easy as taking the cap off, dumping them out and then refilling. Part of the problem is that I can't see how you'd get all the oil and crap out without disassembling...some will always be left in the inner and outer tubes. However there's a decent writeup just recently on a dump and fill oil change.

I can't say about the different oil volumes. The older (non-ES?) bikes have the same volume for both legs.
 
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WJBertrand

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You can’t drain the cartridges without disassembling and pumping them empty. If you just drain and then add the amount specified in the manual you’ll overfill the forks.


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Thrasherg

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You can’t drain the cartridges without disassembling and pumping them empty. If you just drain and then add the amount specified in the manual you’ll overfill the forks.


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That was not the answer I wanted to see!! :) looks like it's going to be a longer job than I had hoped for!!

Gary
 

~TABASCO~

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That was not the answer I wanted to see!! :) looks like it's going to be a longer job than I had hoped for!!

Gary

I also suggest "washing" out all the crap from inside the tube legs and inside the cartridge the best you can... The valve stack is important to "wash" the best you can.... These are inverted forks so a lot of the 'garbage' sinks to the bottom, there will be 'sludge' down there.............

Some folks with dump out the oil, pour in new and call it good.......................... If you have it apart, I always suggest taking an extra hour or two and do the job correctly..... the forks are already apart, clean them up properly.....

Another suggestion..... I have found over 40 years that adding the (manual) correct amount is rarely the "correct" amount.... pour in the the recommended amount and then work to get all the air out of the cartridges by pushing them up and down, Etc..... Get the air out... Then measure the air volume from the top. I think factory has you do this with the spring installed, others like Ohlins has you do this with the spring removed... Anyhow, check the internal height. I almost ALWAYS have to add oil (to my prescribed height).......

You can also change the ride characteristics with different weight oil and the volume that you install depending on your weight, and how you use the bike... This is the time to check & or change that aspect.......
 

Thrasherg

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Thanks guys, I agree that I need to dismantle them and thoroughly clean out the damper units. my ES forks seem to need a 44mm spanner to open the forks, I can’t find anyone selling a 6 point 44mm fork spanner, none of my adjustable spanners go that wide, so what do you guys use to open the forks?

Gary
 

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Thanks guys, I agree that I need to dismantle them and thoroughly clean out the damper units. my ES forks seem to need a 44mm spanner to open the forks, I can’t find anyone selling a 6 point 44mm fork spanner, none of my adjustable spanners go that wide, so what do you guys use to open the forks?

Gary
A big ass socket………. I got a few Ha-Ha
 

Jiivee

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Thanks guys, I agree that I need to dismantle them and thoroughly clean out the damper units. my ES forks seem to need a 44mm spanner to open the forks, I can’t find anyone selling a 6 point 44mm fork spanner, none of my adjustable spanners go that wide, so what do you guys use to open the forks?

Gary
Hi. I will soon start work on the S10 ES fork and before that I have made some DIY tools...

20230602_102729.jpg
20230603_100233.jpg
 

holligl

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Big Socket, Spring Compressor, and a rod puller are what you will need to do it right. A 1-3/4" SAE will work if used carefully as it is a little loose. However, don't try to loosen or tighten the caps with the fork flush in the triple tree as the socket is too thick to fit square. I loosen mine after removal holding the fork with a nonmarring wood clamp or strap wrench. I made a spring compressor, and a threaded lamp conduit and top nut works as a rod puller. (1/8-27 IPS = 3/8" O.D. ) Many people use strap clamps with the spring compressor, but I like a couple turn-buckles as the release is more predictable.

The biggest thing to note on the ES is the difference in compression and rebounding damping when exercising the rod. It's very easy on the left fork to squirt oil every where when you pull the rod up. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the puller rod and added a rubber glove finger tip as a diverter.

You measure the oil level after exercising the rods to get the air out and before putting the guide and spring in.

If you have to ever go further and replace the seals or bushings you will also need a seal driver. I've always been able to borrow one.
 

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WJBertrand

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I’m not changing the seals, just the oil..
Not sure how you can pump the cartridges without disassembling the fork? Taking apart the fork requires removing the seals. You’d still need a seal driver to reinstall them. I wouldn’t put used seals back in after a disassembly.


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holligl

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Not sure how you can pump the cartridges without disassembling the fork? Taking apart the fork requires removing the seals. You’d still need a seal driver to reinstall them. I wouldn’t put used seals back in after a disassembly.


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After removing the cap you can dump and exercise the cartridges with the forks still together. After removing the spring they can be exercised with the puller.

Not to go off subject but somewhat related, after a recent discussion with another member, how many people remove the cartridge before replacing seals and bushings?

While the manual calls for it, I never have, as it calls out another special tool (Cartridge Holder). I recognize folks may use an impact driver for the bottom screw without a holder, but I like to torque to the specs the best I can. I've always been able to separate the forks with the cartridge attached in the lower leg.

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