2014ES bad starter, solenoid or something? Elec system dies when hit 'Start'

[AndrewA]

OK - wondering if the collective and accumulated wisdom here might be able to help. Here's the situation: 2014 ES (bought new in 10/2014), 32k miles, original battery (reads 12.6 - 12.7V), original starter, etc. Went to start it for a ride today, and ...

1. disconnected battery tender lead & backed bike out of garage
2. turned ignition key to 'On'. Lights came on, fuel pump cycled - everything seems normal
3. kill switch was in 'Run' position, so I depressed it to 'Start' to fire the engine .... at that point EVERYTHING died...

Engine didn't even attempt to turn over. Electrical power seemed to instantly disappear - no lights, display, nothing. The ABS light seemed to flicker, and there was a clicking sound from under the cowl, but that's it. Putting the multi-meter on the battery at this point shows it jumping around between 4.3 and 6.5V. After about a minute of this, everything somehow resets - lights and display come back on, fuel pump cycles, and it seems ready to go. Multi-meter shows 12.5 - 12.7V again. Hit the 'Start' button, and the exact same thing happens all over again.

Not sure if it matters, but I rode 250-ish miles on Sunday with no issues or indication of issues - but now that I think of it, i don't think I shut the bike off the entire time on that ride. Filled up at the beginning, and was short on time getting home, so didn't refill before parking it. I am definitely on 'reserve' fuel, but should have at least 1/2 gallon - i can hear it sloshing around in there, so I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it.

Buddy of mine says he thinks it's mechanical, not electrical - something with the starter perhaps... or maybe the engine is seized (I can't imagine that's likely at all).

Ideas? I'm going to go check and make sure the starter solenoid is firmly attached, because I think I've heard it can get loose and cause problems. Let me know if there's anything else I should check or try. Thanks!!!

Andrew

 

[RonH]

Dead battery. A battery can easily read full voltage with no load even when bad. The important thing is what volts during start. Yours is dropping to 1/2 the voltage needed to start.

 

[AndrewA]

OK - I may see if I can get my hands on some jumper cables to see if I can get it running off the car battery.

 

[Boris]

Sounds electrical to me.

Battery is a good place to start, does it have enough power? Jump leads make sense as a start, I'd connect but not run the car up.

Are the battery terminal bolts secure, solenoid bolts tight. Earth leads still attached?

 

[AndrewA]

OK - Sir William of Occam wins again.... a quick trip to WalMart for some cables, and then a jump from the car got it started. As soon as I take the cables off, it dies, so it's not holding enough of a charge, apparently. Weird that it happened so quickly. Is there anything else I should check to ensure the charging system is working properly?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[Riteris]

You have a battery that is 5 years old. Probably in need of a replacement.

 

[Dogdaze]

As mentioned by others, new battery is required. Don't look for issues that are not there, the S10 alternator is not prone to failure. At least I have not heard of a case on here.

 

[Nikolajsen]

What about the "charging regulator", is it known to brake down on the S10?
Maybe is it not leading any power through.

 

[AndrewA]

Just ordered one of these guys for $37, shipped: https://www.batterysharks.com/Yuasa-YTZ12S-p/ytz12s_m12-11-210-k.htm

Depending on when they ship it, it's possible i could have it by Saturday.

Andrew

 

[Dogdaze]

Just ordered one of these guys for $37, shipped: https://www.batterysharks.com/Yuasa-YTZ12S-p/ytz12s_m12-11-210-k.htm

Depending on when they ship it, it's possible i could have it by Saturday.

Andrew

Perhaps too late, but others that have replaced batteries went for the YTZ14S, higher CCA but exact drop-in for the YTZ12S

 

[AndrewA]

Yeah - thought about that, but honestly.... if this one lasts me almost 4 years like the stock did (same specs) ... for $37, I'll take it. Guess we'll see, right?

AA

 

[bimota]

This might help,

i have a 2013 world crosser 4 year old with its origanal battery 12s, few weeks ago road all day on a sunday following weekend it would not start first thought had the hard start issues no not that so must be battery optimate charger said battery good but still no start.
So bought a new 14s battery better cca so that ,ll sort it new battery came connected up nothing so can,t be battery, then my mate who is a bike mechanic came to the house all kitted out ready to help old battery nothing wrong new battery was obviously better BUT i thought must be starter solinod relay as there has been issues but this looked good and all tight.

IT was he pulled the starter solenoid relay( located above the battery) apart and inside the plugs and connections they were all badly corroded but looked good from outside cleaned them up pressed starter and BANG first time so lol i have 2 batteries now.

 

[Riteris]

Give one to AndrewA. ::008::

 

[OldRider]

Yeah - thought about that, but honestly.... if this one lasts me almost 4 years like the stock did (same specs) ... for $37, I'll take it. Guess we'll see, right?

AA

IMO you'll be lucky to get 6 months out of it. A battery that cost 20% of a Yuasa isn't going to make the cut. The S10 really needs a lot of cca to get it spinning. If you ever see a Yuasa cut open and compared to a generic copy, there's a huge difference. Good luck.

 

[2daMax]

OK - Sir William of Occam wins again.... a quick trip to WalMart for some cables, and then a jump from the car got it started. As soon as I take the cables off, it dies, so it's not holding enough of a charge, apparently. Weird that it happened so quickly. Is there anything else I should check to ensure the charging system is working properly?

Thanks,
Andrew

I believe there is more to the issues other than a dying battery since after starting and having the jumper cables removed, the bike dies. This sounds like the charging system is somewhat not providing the power to fire the plugs and run the injectors and fuel pump.

A Voltmeter measuring the voltage when the engine is running should indicate if the Stator Coil is good. Good readings should be above 13V and normally is at 14.1V under normal electrical load. If u are seeing 12V-ish, it is either there is a high electrical load (heated grips?, low battery being charged?) or the Stator coil is burnt. ANything below 12V, confirmed the coil is burnt.

Do check the battery connections, and the Starter Relay connections. Starter Relay is located on RHS, somewhere above where the battery sits and has 2 huge AWG cables attached to it. There has been reports of those bolts being loose. This would be the first thing I'll check.

 

[cyclemike4]

hello Andrew. Just from what I am reading here and from having the same issues on other vehicles it sounds like your battery is shorting out. I would not jump it again and would not even try to start it till the new battery is installed. With some of the cells shorting out it is loading the charging system and could damage that as well. Just my 2 cents worth to think about. Best of luck and hope you are back on the road very soon!

 

[cjclint]

Battery could be bad but could also simply be corroded battery cable connections. Remove cables from battery, clean/sand cable connection and battery posts

 

[AndrewA]

Ok -Apologies for the delayed response here.

Got the new battery on Saturday ($37 incl sipping). Got the 12S. Also checked the solenoid & battery connections before ordering the new one. Everything else seemed ok, so figured it was worth a shot & dropped the $37.

Installed the battery on Sat, and it started right up. Put it on the tender overnigh, & then rode 250 miles on Sunday with zero issues. (Getting ready to head to Glacier Natl Pk for some hiking, and had a Mast Gnl Store gift card burning a hole in my pocket, so rode up to Valle Crucis to buy a packpack I could have bought here in Charlotte, 10 mins from my house. Lol. Awesome ride, tho!)

Honestly, if it dies in 6 months, I'll consider it a $37 lesson learned. Lord knows, I've had much more expensive lessons than that in my life! Then again, lots of people say you'll never get more than 5k on Shinko 705's, and I got 8,400 on the rear (front is still fine) before hitting the wear-bars & replacing it with a FullBore (same tire, essentially), so I'll find out for myself & see how it goes. You may be right; I may be crazy. I'll keep my fingers crossed in the mean time.

Andrew

 

[holligl]

FWIW Battery sharks does have the 14 version for about the same price. Replaced mine back in April to cure hesitant starting. They were first recommended by eemsreno, who I believe had something like three years and counting on his. IDK, I think he babies his bikes though! )

 

[eemsreno]

Yes I'm still running one of them cheapO batteries for over three years.
But I am the biggest bike baby out there.