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I agree. I try to avoid the area around the citadel shopping mall like the plague. Hang in there.

Must be the 405. Yuck.

It is holding up well. I won't do an improper repair. What I meant to say is, if it does not hold up during the next several oil changes, I will once again drop the pan and then just thread it out for a 14mm bolt.

I did indeed.

I used the 12 mm X 1.5 helicoil kit I purchased from Amazon, and I used an Irwin drill bit (forget the size) as recommended by the helicoil kit. I did purchase a new gasket from Rocky Mountain. I have a feeling I may have to revisit this matter again in the future...

Mission accomplished. Finished it yesterday afternoon. Added fresh oil and a new oil filter. Started her up. Ran her for 10 minutes to check for leaks, then took her for a test ride. No Leaks. Let her sit overnight. Checked her again, no leaks! Thanks again to all of you. You all make this...

Ah, the famous Scotty Kilmer vids! I watched many of his clips. Good stuff.

Than you so much for your help. All of you. Tabasco, you were right. There was a recessed screw hidden in the middle of the pan. Thank you. i think this was previously repaired with a helicoil (first pic). That is what came out of the pan. Cleaned the pan. Tomorrow i will start the Helicoil...

Thank you very much for your swift response. I will go back and check all of the screw / bolts, and then take your advice for using a peice of wood to try and get it loose. I will report back!

Thank you. I watched this video several times. I wish it had a little bit more detail.

I did. I looked at the yamaha service manual and the Online Parts schematic from ROcky Mointain. Doesn't seem Like I missed any screw to unbolt. Did I?

Buying the pan is not that expensive. The issue is removing it safely.

I know. That's how I feel. The former owner that stripped this needs to be banned from working on any vehicle.

So the oil pan is stuck or stubborn. I drained the oil from both plugs and oil filter. Removed all of the underlying bolts including loosening the oil sensor, and the strainer cover. Tapped gently with a dead blow hammer on the sides. Won't budge. I carefully checked that I removed all of...

I considered Helicoils. I thought that they were not the best solution for something removed rather often? Nonetheless, if I decide to go this route, what size should I purchase?

Depending on the vendor anywhere from $165+. That's not including gaskets. (I see where you are going with this. )

Sierra1, I honestly don't know the true cost yet until I contact some machine shops in the area tomorrow to see what re-threading will cost. If I do drop the pan and try to Time Sert it myself, it's definitely going to cost +$100 for the Time Sert Kit +$$ for gaskets, etc. So I am still undecided.

Don, I tried to revive this thread, but posted a new thread as well. I think Sierra1 is right. I think I may need to drop the pan. It may be more cost effective to just buy a new pan and gaskets vs. removing the pan and paying a machinist to install a Time Sert. Real bummer though.

So, yes, I am guilty of stripping one of the oil pan threads while changing the S10's oil. I have done a search and read some posts about this subject. I have several options. The two most compelling are: 1. Buy a new pan, or 2. Remove old pan and re-thread with Time Sert or take to machinist...

Eric, I was changing the oil today and noticed this happened to me too. The drain plug would tighten, then loosen. I removed it and foind the oil pan threads on the bolt. Since I have never rethreaded anything (tap and die, helicoil, time sert). Would a salf tapping drain plug be a good...