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Where was the crack? By a spoke or on the lip where the bead sits?

You should try the new 1000 its quick and has all the gadgets. Honestly would love one if i saw a purposes for a large adv bike and a sport touring. I wouldn't trade my st for one but its close and if i never wanted to ride off road versys would be the ticket. 650 would be decent if ya didnt...

Could be a hard start too but its really worth checking when you see smoke..

Id pull the tank and air box look for damage to any wiring. Smoke can be serious ive seen harnesses go up in flames before. Also check the air filter coukd be a rats nest. Sucked in bent valve blew shit out the air box. Unlikely but when your that far any way. You rly dont want a...

Whats wet there or is that just road grime?

Just get a small tub of waterproof wheel bearing grease. Then grab a tube of black moly grease. You'll be good to go for all things auto for awhile unless your backing bearings all the time. Loctite and sli glide like mentioned are great too. I use the silicone on sliding pins on the cars...

Remove the wire harness fits in there just fine then. Zero issues and takes 10 mins to move. Honestly one of the easier valve adjusts to do imo. Room for everything. Dont need to remove or move the radiator or res. Plenty of room to read all cam markings. More of a pita on the newer i4 bikes

Only one i know of is the drive by wire. Haven't seen one for the coils. To be honest I dont know if there are any wires with that recall that go to the coils.

No problem. I did make a mistake when reading the codes you posted. I thought both cylinders were missing. The codes are for both coils on one cylinder you mentioned that too i wasnt paying attention. Sounds like your not going to tackle this your self? Pretty simple test you could do...

Just checked the wiring id bet the power wire is the issue multiple splices off it feeding all 4 coils. Which would explain why your getting both codes. Intermittent issues are hard to trace down sometimes. This should be pretty easy given you all ready have a place to start. Truth is too...

Actuator number is 32 and 33. Id highly suspect wiring at this point and thats exactly where i would start.. Load test the wiring while moving the harness and grabbing in different areas. They are wired with the starting circuit cut of relay, stop start switch and direct to the ecu. Its...

Same i waited for like 4 months for some throttle cables. Few people did shut down the world so kinda chalking it up to that... Will order from them again cheapest prices and the other 10 times ive used em work out great.

No oil is necessary. I would remove the clutch cover yes

Did you have to remove the spring perch to get the rebound valve out or just the compression valve? I forget if theres a bumper on the damper rod. What was your impression of the penske valveing?

Just stick something between the guide and case. Then remive the old cct and stick the new one in. Graves is nice but the oil gallery is just to lube the cct so any manual one will work.

Pm sent for bar end

70 shipped

Does the rear brake and shifter go low enough and work well still?

I have not seem like decent prices. Prolly go go with the 120 for the price. Got a motoz for the shit but dont want to waste it on the road

Great tires for the price