dreaded cruise control issue

dannyv

Active Member
Joined
May 4, 2018
Messages
294
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Reading through this thread, if I understand the cc, I am my own worst enemy. I asked the dealer to lower the rear brake lever, as my shoe was touching it when cruising. The cruise worked, it just kicked out if I hit a bump enough for my foot to rock forward. But since they lowered the brake lever about a quarter inch, I have no cruise. Light comes on, it just won't engage.

Is my theory correct? The lowered brake lever needs to be re-raised?
 

JamesGang

I'm Rick James
Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
237
Location
Cape Breton Island
Hi MIMSEY.
If your here on a weekend, that's enough excuse for me to ride the Cabot Trail.
Happy trails,
Rick
I will be in your neck of the woods End of June for a for a trek to Meat Cove. I will Lubricate my clutch lever too its looks on the dry side now that you mentioned it as well.
 

fredz43

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Sep 1, 2010
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IL, the land of straight, flat, boring roads
Well, my friend's 2014 with a cruise problem has finally been fixed. This is the one where you could select cruise on ok, but you could not set it. Turns out that it was the switch on the throttle body. The service manager explained to me that the tech had tested that switch 5 times during the lengthy trouble shooting and it tested fine, but on the 6th time, it tested bad. Evidently something internal of the switch would fail when it was in the normal operating position, but when unplugged and the position rotated for testing, it would check fine.

All ok, Tony?
 

Gigitt

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2015
Messages
427
Location
Sydney Australia
Reading through this thread, if I understand the cc, I am my own worst enemy. I asked the dealer to lower the rear brake lever, as my shoe was touching it when cruising. The cruise worked, it just kicked out if I hit a bump enough for my foot to rock forward. But since they lowered the brake lever about a quarter inch, I have no cruise. Light comes on, it just won't engage.

Is my theory correct? The lowered brake lever needs to be re-raised?
adjustting the lever higher or lower and you will have to adjust the switch as well. easy enough to do.
 

MIMSEY

Active Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2018
Messages
126
Location
Charlottetown PEI
I will be in your neck of the woods End of June for a for a trek to Meat Cove. I will Lubricate my clutch lever too its looks on the dry side now that you mentioned it as well.
I lubed mine tonight, yes it was sticking a bit glad you mentioned it. will be something I will check from now one.
THANKS.
 

thughes317

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Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
1,059
Location
The Bluegrass, KY
This problem (cruise light comes on steady but when you select the button to 'Set' it, nothing happens) started on my '18 non ES yesterday. Due to lack of knowledge, I have no choice but to take it to the dealer here in Sydney, N.S. where I purchased her. My warranty expired two weeks ago and I worry that they will just keep throwing parts at it until they figure it out.
@JamesGang

Same issue just happened here: worked fine on the way to work, broken on the way home. Orange light comes on when CC is switched on but nothing happens when hitting the "set". I ran all the diagnostics and everything checked out fine. checked all connections, harnesses, plugs, wires, etc. and found nothing. Went for another test ride: still broken.

Was just about to hang it up when I found that the main 12v cable on the starter solenoid relay was slightly loose (the heavy cable on the output post heading to the starter, not the heavy cable on the input side from the battery). It wasn't "flopping around" loose but the nut was not tight and the cable could swivel and possibly lose contact. Anyhoo.......I tightened that cable up, checked all the other connections to/from the battery, and went for a test ride. Joy!!! CC works again.

I have not dug into the wiring diagram to see if there is a correlation to this connection and the cc, it's always possible that some other connection somewhere nearby may have been loose and was affected by my fiddling with this cable. YMMV.
 
Last edited:

thughes317

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
1,059
Location
The Bluegrass, KY
@JamesGang

Same issue just happened here: worked fine on the way to work, broken on the way home. Orange light comes on when CC is switched on but nothing happens when hitting the "set". I ran all the diagnostics and everything checked out fine. checked all connections, harnesses, plugs, wires, etc. and found nothing. Went for another test ride: still broken.

Was just about to hang it up when I found that the main 12v cable on the starter solenoid relay was slightly loose (the heavy cable on the output post heading to the starter, not the heavy cable on the input side from the battery). It wasn't "flopping around" loose but the nut was not tight and the cable could swivel and possibly lose contact. Anyhoo.......I tightened that cable up, checked all the other connections to/from the battery, and went for a test ride. Joy!!! CC works again.

I have not dug into the wiring diagram to see if there is a correlation to this connection and the cc, it's always possible that some other connection somewhere nearby may have been loose and was affected by my fiddling with this cable. YMMV.

Follow up: As I suspected, the loose cable was a red herring. Put in 200 miles today and found that the cc "set" would stop working randomly. Eventually noticed it seemed to be after I had slowed down to go through a small town and then tried to reactivate the cc upon hitting open road on the other side of town. Figuring that it had to be one of the cut-off switches (ft brake, r brake, clutch, throttle roll-off), I tried each in turn several times: set cc, tap clutch to shut off, set cc again, tap ft brake to shut off, etc. About the third time I went though the cycle I got to "set cc", tap rear brake, "set cc".....inop! Could not get the set button to work after tapping rear brake! Tapped the pedal a few more times....low and behold cc works again. Once I got home I ran the self diagnostics to confirm: every third or forth stab at the rear brake hung the diag code #82 to "on". Bingo....the rear brake switch is sticky (it got pretty goobered up at the Smokin Hole rally a few weeks ago). I'll pop it off and clean/lube then report back.
 

thughes317

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
1,059
Location
The Bluegrass, KY
Follow up: As I suspected, the loose cable was a red herring. Put in 200 miles today and found that the cc "set" would stop working randomly. Eventually noticed it seemed to be after I had slowed down to go through a small town and then tried to reactivate the cc upon hitting open road on the other side of town. Figuring that it had to be one of the cut-off switches (ft brake, r brake, clutch, throttle roll-off), I tried each in turn several times: set cc, tap clutch to shut off, set cc again, tap ft brake to shut off, etc. About the third time I went though the cycle I got to "set cc", tap rear brake, "set cc".....inop! Could not get the set button to work after tapping rear brake! Tapped the pedal a few more times....low and behold cc works again. Once I got home I ran the self diagnostics to confirm: every third or forth stab at the rear brake hung the diag code #82 to "on". Bingo....the rear brake switch is sticky (it got pretty goobered up at the Smokin Hole rally a few weeks ago). I'll pop it off and clean/lube then report back.
No joy....still hanging up occasionally. As this is also causing the brake light to stay on (a safety issue), I am not going to screw around with it anymore....just ordered a new switch.
 

Nissbird

Active Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2015
Messages
209
Location
Hereford
No joy....still hanging up occasionally. As this is also causing the brake light to stay on (a safety issue), I am not going to screw around with it anymore....just ordered a new switch.
I had this problem, I cured it by taking the rear brake switch apart and found a "corroded/broken spring inside, which meant the rear brake light stayed on when I used the rear brake. Replaced the spring and the cruise control now works perfectly
 

thughes317

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
1,059
Location
The Bluegrass, KY
I had this problem, I cured it by taking the rear brake switch apart and found a "corroded/broken spring inside, which meant the rear brake light stayed on when I used the rear brake. Replaced the spring and the cruise control now works perfectly
$16 and free shipping for a new OEM switch, it just wasn't worth my time to take it apart and try to fix it.

Glad it worked out for you.....did you take any pictures that you could share with the class?
 

prowlnS10

2014 ES
Joined
Jul 13, 2018
Messages
69
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
CRUISE CONTROL NOT WORKING 2018 (23k km) : My 2014 ES first displayed the blinking cc light randomly & intermittently &
initially would resolve itself thru restarting the bike, restoring functionality...but never any error code.

My 1st attempt to solve the problem was to check all switch adjustments & clean all switches with electronic cleaner (without
disassembly) & abs sensors, but during the next 2k km trip, it's occurrence increased, but still returning to functioning status after
restarts.

Still no error codes were stored, so this time I attempted to duplicate the issue by manually apply the front & rear brakes
while on the center stand & not running & I got lucky & observed that the front brake micro-switch would randomly stick in the on
position (brake lights stay on) & generate a 090 error code (interesting because no error codes were displayed previously).

This time I disassembled the front brake switch assembly to get access to the 2 micro switches inside that are operated by
sequential paddles (cc switch 1st, followed by brake switch last)....cleaned them with cleaner while manually manipulating the
switches hoping to get cleaner to the internals....sorry no pics.

NOTE: if you operate the brake micro switch independent of the cc micro switch an 090 error codes is generated, so it appears
the bike diagnostics wants to see the 2 operate in correct sequence. When reinstalling the micro switches into the assembly be
sure to depress the protruding assembly actuating tab that interfaces with the brake lever BEFORE snapping the assembly
cover/micro switches in place, to avoid contact with the actuating paddles! Otherwise you risk damaging or breaking off the
protruding micro switch activation tab housed in the rubber boot. I thought I had snapped off the one on the brake
switch....luckily I was able to reinsert into the micro switch restoring function.

This can be a very complicated issue to resolve because the cruise control circuit includes the front & rear brake switches, the
clutch switch, the side stand switch, the throttle roll back switch, the gear selection sensor, the front & back abs sensors & the
ecu. 1 or more components could be faulty. If the brake light is ON, cc will not work! Start troubleshooting with confirming
correct rear brake switch adjustment 1st, then the front brake switch operation, then clutch switch operation, then side stand
switch, etc.

The brake switch assembly is $184 Canadian & the clutch assembly is $230, both special order from Japan with 2-3 weeks
eta...yikes! So far so good, no more flashing cc light or sticking brake light...up to 35k km problem free so far...will update if
problem returns.

Front Stop Switch Assembly: https://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/2bs-83980-00-00/front-stop-switch-assy
Superseded Clutch Switch: https://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/1mc-82917-01-00/switch
 

craigincali

Active Member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Messages
148
Location
A Town called Hell !!
Mine is blinking. I have changed the rear brake light switch and it didn't help. I'm doing a 50cc in May it would be really to have my CC working !!!

Around I replace the front switch too?
 

pooh and xtine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
290
Location
UK
I had the intermittent cruise problem. Repeatedly pulling the front brake lever to activate the switch I identified that occasionally the brake light would remain on once the lever had returned. So I bought a new switch and it seems OK now. Stupid price for a switch, though - I got mine cheaper from Partzilla in the US (even with VAT etc) than it would have been here in the UK. It's usually the front brake light switch - mine has only lasted 2 years / 10,000 miles. At this rate it'll be almost as expensive a consumable as tyres!
 
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