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Handlebar movement?

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ballisticexchris

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Kruzzin5, You know how it is. We all have different opinions and most importantly riding styles and backgrounds. Erics background is long distance Iron Butt style with more miles than I can comprehend. My background is primarily off road and hard core extreme riding. I have done a few cross country rides and have quite a bit of pavement experience. Nothing like Eric though.

When I think of a modification, I figure in what is the worst that can go wrong. In the case of the guy whose bars snapped off, he was lucky. It was a charity ride and we were able to recover it with a 4wd truck.

Sometimes I'm way off and it bites me in the butt every time!! An example is the aftermarket pegs and shifter. It ended up being a 500.00 mistake!! Off road beats the crap out of any bike. The Super Tenere is no exception. And simple tip overs can be expensive.
https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/short-day-ride-report-home-safe-and-sound.26236/#post-367092
 
Kruzzin5

Kruzzin5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
417
Location
Newmarket, Ontario
ballisticexchris said:
Kruzzin5, You know how it is. We all have different opinions and most importantly riding styles and backgrounds. Erics background is long distance Iron Butt style with more miles than I can comprehend. My background is primarily off road and hard core extreme riding. I have done a few cross country rides and have quite a bit of pavement experience. Nothing like Eric though.

When I think of a modification, I figure in what is the worst that can go wrong. In the case of the guy whose bars snapped off, he was lucky. It was a charity ride and we were able to recover it with a 4wd truck.

Sometimes I'm way off and it bites me in the butt every time!! An example is the aftermarket pegs and shifter. It ended up being a 500.00 mistake!! Off road beats the crap out of any bike. The Super Tenere is no exception. And simple tip overs can be expensive.
https://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?threads/short-day-ride-report-home-safe-and-sound.26236/#post-367092
Click to expand...
Yeah, OEM is the best way to go many times. Great ride report!
 
SkunkWorks

SkunkWorks

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Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,771
Location
Colorado
I have a little insight on this topic, as I have done the washer-add to mine.
I felt there was way too much movement in the bars under acceleration and braking. Much more than I am comfortable with........
There may have been a point where I might have gotten used to it, but it sure gave me an uneasy feeling during riding maneuvers.
I actually took a video of how much mine moved before i added the washers.


One thing that I notice with Chris's picture, is that the aluminum risers appear to extend down through the top-clamp with an extended aluminum "Barrel" that is a cast part of the riser itself? Although it's hard to tell if that is the case without more detail?
The Yamaha factory risers on the 2014-up bikes are not made like that. They have a high-grade steel, shouldered stud mounted into the bottom of the riser. This steel stud is what extends down through the rubber bushing in the top-clamp, with a locknut on the bottom to hold it in place.
This steel stud takes all the load and force exerted on the bars whether you push on them until they stop (using the factory rubber bushings) or if you add a washer in the stack to limit movement.. You are not putting any more force on that steel stud by adding a washer, you are simply changing the point at which they stop moving forward or backward.

I ride with a Pro-Taper ADV-High bar on mine, and I honestly don't notice any more vibration in the bars than the factory setup.......
 
Kruzzin5

Kruzzin5

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Joined
Oct 14, 2019
Messages
417
Location
Newmarket, Ontario
I have slightly more movement because I have 2 inch Rox risers. And you’re right, it is unsettling. However, I get it that the factory wants some movement to absorb vibration etc. I guess I’ll have to get used to it. My other bikes had fixed risers to the top triple clamp. This is something new to me.
 
E

Eville Rich

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2016
Messages
464
Location
Wisconsin, USA
I did the washer thing late summer 2019 on my 2016 S10. I'd installed the 2" pivoting Rox risers sometime in late 2017 after doing extended hydraulic lines. Found the movement of the stock setup a bit more than I cared for, especially over bad roads (most of WI). The washers were 5/8 stainless (inner diameter). I added one on the top and one on the bottom of each side. Not sure if others have only added one. The reduction in movement is very nice and the bike feels more responsive to steering inputs. From what I could tell, any added strain would be to the base of the handlebar mount, not the bolt that extends below. That's a pretty beefy piece and I'm not doing any rough off-road. The rubber is still there acting as a cushion and handling vibrations.

So far I'm a fan.

Eville Rich
2016 S10
 
SkunkWorks

SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,771
Location
Colorado
I would think there is actually MORE force being put on that stud with the stock setup, as the whole bars-assembly and all the weight of your upper body is allowed to "swing" until it stops (like swinging a hammer)....................as opposed to not being allowed to swing forward/backward using the added washers.
 
S

Supertenere2014

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
43
Location
Canada
SkunkWorks said:
I have a little insight on this topic, as I have done the washer-add to mine.
I felt there was way too much movement in the bars under acceleration and braking. Much more than I am comfortable with........
There may have been a point where I might have gotten used to it, but it sure gave me an uneasy feeling during riding maneuvers.
I actually took a video of how much mine moved before i added the washers.


One thing that I notice with Chris's picture, is that the aluminum risers appear to extend down through the top-clamp with an extended aluminum "Barrel" that is a cast part of the riser itself? Although it's hard to tell if that is the case without more detail?
The Yamaha factory risers on the 2014-up bikes are not made like that. They have a high-grade steel, shouldered stud mounted into the bottom of the riser. This steel stud is what extends down through the rubber bushing in the top-clamp, with a locknut on the bottom to hold it in place.
This steel stud takes all the load and force exerted on the bars whether you push on them until they stop (using the factory rubber bushings) or if you add a washer in the stack to limit movement.. You are not putting any more force on that steel stud by adding a washer, you are simply changing the point at which they stop moving forward or backward.

I ride with a Pro-Taper ADV-High bar on mine, and I honestly don't notice any more vibration in the bars than the factory setup.......
Click to expand...
Likewise, I went with the protaper high bars
Excellent addition to the bike. I added the washers and its reduced movement by approx 90%. I find it feels much better in all the conditions I ride in. Much more solid feeling when standing rising, which is my preference. I appreciate all the thoughtful dialogue in this thread.
 
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